I was born in Mombasa in Kenya and hence Africa holds a strange magnetic fascination on my Psyche.
"Makemytrip.com" was my online air tickets booking portal.Total cost of the "Mumbai-Addis Ababa-Entebbe-Kigali-Mumbai " air ticket was Rs 41,881 only. Next was the hostel/hotel bookings in the city's of Addis Ababa,Entebbe and Kigali through "www.booking.com" of which i am a "Genius member". A title achieved through my frequent travel bookings through this travel site after voluntary retirement from sailing employment in the "Merchant Navy" in 2006. Have travelled to 62 Country's to date of which a major part of travel was during my 23 years "Merchant Navy " career at a phase when the advertisement "Join the Merchant Navy and see the World" was practically possible for the average common seafarer. Had visited my birth city of Mombasa in 1988 while employed as 3rd Engineer on the "S.C.I.(Shipping Corporation of India)" ship "M.V Vishva Nandini".
Researching the Internet booked my air tickets on Thursday (5-10-2017) on Ethiopian Airlines through the travelsite
Hence visiting Kenya was not on my tour itinerary as life is too short for achieving a personal endeavour of visiting maximum country's while simultaneously indulging in new discoveries and extreme adventure sports during a human lifetime.For "Bragger's Rights Club " membership do i belong to the elite 1 % of the human population ?
Next got my "Uganda Visa" online costing a total of Rs 4,668 through "Farshak Travels" which included the travel agency fees of Rs 1000. Although the Ethiopian Visa is issued on arrival in Addis Ababa applied personally for the same in Mumbai at the"Ethiopian Consulate General Office" situated in Naman Mid Town building at Elphinstone(W) which is cycling distance from my residence in Prabhadevi.On Thursday(21/12/2017) cycled to the embassy office and submitted my Visa approval documents along with a Visa fee payment D.D Cheque of Rs 2800 .The Visa was issued on the same day and collected my passport along with the stamped visa in the evening.
Ethiopian Marathon runner Abebe.Bikila and Kipchigan.Keino of Kenya were my childhood heroes in school with my 800 meters school Intermediate(Under 15 years) record of 0 2 mins 36 secs set in 1975 standing the test of time till 1980 when i last visited my school on Annual School Sports Day. Does the record still stand in 2017 ? Today at the age of 57 years i regularly swim 2 Kms + at the "M.G.M.O" pool in Mumbai, a eternal fitness fanatic by nature.Now you may know the reason why Late Hindi Actor Dev.Anand and living rock legend Mick.Jagger are my hardcore idols.What is the secret training formula of the Ethiopian marathoners and long distance runners ? Finally i would be visiting Ethiopia , the Country that has a unique distinction along with Kenya for producing the World's best marathoners and long distance runners.Starting from 1 st January 2018 the Visa to Rwanda would be issued to all Country citizens on arrival at any Rwandan border post checkpoint and hence decided to get the same in Rwanda.Would i be the Bonny( Hindi slang for First) Indian tourist availing this new visa scheme at the land border in Rwanda ?
Tuesday(26/12/2017) Departure Mumbai :- Left my home in Prabhadevi at 0700 hrs and was at the " Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminal 2" at 0730 hrs.After the normal "Check-In " formalities passed through security,immigration and finally relaxed in the plush duty free lounge.
Most of the passengers were on the transit flight to Addis Ababa with their final destination being Saudi Arabia for the Haj Pilgrimage.Boarding time at "Gate No 74" was scheduled for 1040 hrs and did the "Wifi Bonny(Hindi slang for first usage)" of my new laptop at the waiting lounge.The first time i was carrying a laptop on a overseas flight although a frequent Globe trotter.The blogger was on the job.Excellent flight with the two seats
next to me vacant although the plane was almost full to capacity with Haj
pilgrims from Mumbai on their way to
Jeddah .It was akin to travelling in "Business Class" ! Lunch was
mutton /rice,salad,bread.pudding with beer and wine while listening to the inflight music.
Reached Addis Ababa airport at 1400 hrs and after immigration check and collecting my bag changed 100 Euro @ 32.28 Birr and 50 Us Dollars @ 27.2 Birr at the “Commercial Bank of Ethiopia” counter situated inside the airport lounge. Addis Ababa in Amharic means "New Flower" and lies at a elevation of 2,200 meters (7,700 Ft) at the foot of Mt Entoto and is often called the"Political Capital of Africa" for its historic ,political and diplomatic significance to the continent of Africa.Amharic is the official language of Ethiopia and is the second most spoken Semitic language in the World after Arabic with the script being written from left to right .Amharic is considered a Holy language by the Rastafari religion and used by its followers Worldwide.English is the link language in Ethiopia and taight in schools with all the major road indicators and buildings using the English language. The "African Union" has its headquarters in Addis Ababa On ringing up "Tiru Hotel" on phone through the taxi driver asking for directions to the hotel was shocked to know the hotel had closed business and was non-existant as a hotel. All my countless "SOLO" foreign hostel and hotel bookings have been done through the on-line site "www.booking.com" and this was the first instance that the booking site was unaware of a non-existant hotel on their International booking website.Thankfully the taxi driver was helpful and on a charge of 200 Birr guided me to a alternate hotel “Selam Pension” situated in Dembel square.
Booked a single room and was allotted room No “V1” on the ground floor of the palatial hotel estate having a common shared toilet/bathe costing 280 Birr/day. Good spacious room with television and a large tub style common bathe situated opposite the lobby of my room. .Although there was free WiFi it was very slow and couldn't access many sites. Strolled along the street which has a broad road where photography of public buildings is prohibited. Road side footpath stalls run by young women selling finger chips is popular with the locals and tasted a packet of chips costing 5 Birr. The hotel room attendant Mr Diriba was helpful in showing me the method of using the T.V and palatial hot water bathe. The room T.V which had “Nile Sat” entertainment did not have English programme when i first scanned the channels but over a hundred different channels . First time came across a few “Palestine T.V Channels ” and numerous other T,V channels but not a single in the English language .
Strange. Later
in the evening went to the local restaurant “Amen Bar and Restaurant ” which was houseful with young men drinking beer and watching the
English premier league (live) on T.V being broadcast in English .Joined the young crowd and told the restaurant bar
tender to serve me a local dish. On seeing the dish I got the shock of my life
due to sheer amazement at the size of the plate and meal. The dish called
“Be’Ye’ayinet(Amharic name)” is made of injera which is teff grain flour grown only in Ethiopia and fermented to taste sour It resembled
the largest pancake I have eaten to date with the pancake covered with various types
of vegetables.In Ethiopia it’s a tradition among the Ethiopian Coptic Christians to fast on Wednesdays and
Fridays and it is usually on these
fasting days that this national traditional vegetarian meal is eaten at homes. A pure vegetarian
menu which would thrill a hardcore vegetarian. I was guilty of not being able to
consume the entire meal as it was fit
for a group of at least 2 people or more ! My total cost was 50 Birr for the
meal and 14 birr for the draught beer. This one meal would suffice for a entire
day and this is their local National dish. No wonder Ethiopia has been
producing a string of long distance athletes .A healthy diet with cool altitude
climate could be one of the secrets of Ethiopian runners.
Hence visiting Kenya was not on my tour itinerary as life is too short for achieving a personal endeavour of visiting maximum country's while simultaneously indulging in new discoveries and extreme adventure sports during a human lifetime.For "Bragger's Rights Club " membership do i belong to the elite 1 % of the human population ?
Next got my "Uganda Visa" online costing a total of Rs 4,668 through "Farshak Travels" which included the travel agency fees of Rs 1000. Although the Ethiopian Visa is issued on arrival in Addis Ababa applied personally for the same in Mumbai at the"Ethiopian Consulate General Office" situated in Naman Mid Town building at Elphinstone(W) which is cycling distance from my residence in Prabhadevi.On Thursday(21/12/2017) cycled to the embassy office and submitted my Visa approval documents along with a Visa fee payment D.D Cheque of Rs 2800 .The Visa was issued on the same day and collected my passport along with the stamped visa in the evening.
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| Sumptuous lunch on the Ethiopian flight to Addis Ababa. |
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| On the lawn of "SELAM PENSION " my hotel in Addis Ababa. |
Tuesday(26/12/2017) Departure Mumbai :- Left my home in Prabhadevi at 0700 hrs and was at the " Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminal 2" at 0730 hrs.After the normal "Check-In " formalities passed through security,immigration and finally relaxed in the plush duty free lounge.
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| In room "V1 " of Selam Pension hotel. |
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| Bustling Addis Ababa |
Reached Addis Ababa airport at 1400 hrs and after immigration check and collecting my bag changed 100 Euro @ 32.28 Birr and 50 Us Dollars @ 27.2 Birr at the “Commercial Bank of Ethiopia” counter situated inside the airport lounge. Addis Ababa in Amharic means "New Flower" and lies at a elevation of 2,200 meters (7,700 Ft) at the foot of Mt Entoto and is often called the"Political Capital of Africa" for its historic ,political and diplomatic significance to the continent of Africa.Amharic is the official language of Ethiopia and is the second most spoken Semitic language in the World after Arabic with the script being written from left to right .Amharic is considered a Holy language by the Rastafari religion and used by its followers Worldwide.English is the link language in Ethiopia and taight in schools with all the major road indicators and buildings using the English language. The "African Union" has its headquarters in Addis Ababa On ringing up "Tiru Hotel" on phone through the taxi driver asking for directions to the hotel was shocked to know the hotel had closed business and was non-existant as a hotel. All my countless "SOLO" foreign hostel and hotel bookings have been done through the on-line site "www.booking.com" and this was the first instance that the booking site was unaware of a non-existant hotel on their International booking website.Thankfully the taxi driver was helpful and on a charge of 200 Birr guided me to a alternate hotel “Selam Pension” situated in Dembel square.
 |
| The Local dish of Addis Ababa :- Vegetable Injera. |
Booked a single room and was allotted room No “V1” on the ground floor of the palatial hotel estate having a common shared toilet/bathe costing 280 Birr/day. Good spacious room with television and a large tub style common bathe situated opposite the lobby of my room. .Although there was free WiFi it was very slow and couldn't access many sites. Strolled along the street which has a broad road where photography of public buildings is prohibited. Road side footpath stalls run by young women selling finger chips is popular with the locals and tasted a packet of chips costing 5 Birr. The hotel room attendant Mr Diriba was helpful in showing me the method of using the T.V and palatial hot water bathe. The room T.V which had “Nile Sat” entertainment did not have English programme when i first scanned the channels but over a hundred different channels . First time came across a few “Palestine T.V Channels ” and numerous other T,V channels but not a single in the English language .
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| St Stephens Ethiopian Orthodox Church |
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| National Museum of Addis Ababa. Replica exhibit of "LUCY " kept in this museum. |
Wednesday(27/12/2017) Addis Ababa :- Absolutely cold climate at night
with 8*C temp in my enclosed room and 5* C outside.. Natural pure A/c weather. Instead of A/C seems
electric heaters and blankets would be the norm in plush Addis
Ababa homes and expensive hotels.
As a partial insomniac whiled the early morning hours watching the excellent music channel akin to VH1 or MTV but in a foreign language. At 0545 hrs had a luke warm water bath in the shower which trickled water and thankful that at least hot water service was available. Today would be my first exploration of Addis Ababa after the terrible shock recovery of discovering that a certain “Tiru Hotel” had closed business thus leaving me homeless in Addis Ababa. Sheer luck and my decades of travel experience came to my rescue in finding alternate accomodation at the spur of the moment.Made my way out of the hotel at 0730 hrs and headed in the direction of Meskel Square. Noticed numerous shoe-shine men along the footpath with the street gradually getting crowded. Addis Ababa has “Left Side Driving” and hence it took time for me to get adjusted to looking in the right direction to see a on-coming vehicle while crossing the road..Breakfast was at “Mulu Bole road snack and restaurant”, a authentic local Addis Ababa breakfast locale for the locals. Breakfast was fried eggs with local hand ground Ethiopian Kava coffee served in a traditional Jebena clay pot. Excellent with the bill amounting to 54 Birr.After breakfast walked all the way towards Meskel Square and visited the Tourism office that was desolate with myself being the only tourist. Made some inquires and also collected a few brochures.
Had a plan to
visit Harar by bus to witness the street
Hyena feeding by the locals but gave up
the idea as it was too much of a gamble in a few days of stay for such a expedition.Language as well as
travel distance to Harar and back to
Addis was the hurdle. In Ethiopia there are no night travel buses and hence tourists have to travel only during the day if travelling to distant city's or towns in the country.Most tourists prefer travelling by air within Ethiopia rather than using public buses. Visited “St
Stephens Orthodox church ” photographing
a rare beautiful half faced coloured stray cat of which a identical twin is a
universal Internet hit in the Cat World. Bizarre co-incidence. After the visit to St Stephens Church made inquiries of public
transport to the “National Museum”.
A local gentleman guided me to the 31 nos bus stop and we both boarded the bus with the ticket being 1.5 Birr. Luckily he was heading to the same destination and we both alighted at Nation museum stop.My travel blogs on www.blooger.com and writings on “Tripadvisor” has helped numerous readers and hence providence or Karma repaid me during my solo travels. Entrance to the museum was 10 Birr and I instantly headed towards the “Lucy Replica” exhibit. A group of Italian as well as English tourists were in the museum with their respective language guides. Excellent museum explaining the origins of human as well as evolution of various animal species. The museum had three floors, a basement, ground floor, first floor and second floor. Each floor had a exhibition of various aspects of Ethiopian history with the basement exhibiting the origins of species with the replica exhibit of the World famous “LUCY” discovered in the village of Hadar in Ethiopia. "Lucy" is the common name of "AL 288-1" which consists of pieces of bone fossil representing 40% of a skeleton of the hominin species "Austalopithecus Afarensis" which is carbon dated to be approximately 3.2 million years old.
In Ethiopia "Lucy" is reffered to as "Dinkinesh" which means "You are marvellous" in Amharic language.And truly speaking the replica skeleton of "Lucy" was marvellous ."Lucy" got her English name from the English pop group Beatles song titled"Lucy in the sky with Diamonds" which was playing continuously in the evening during the first day's excavation process of the archaelogical team involved in discovering these skeletal fossils. After completion of the museum tour walked out onto the main road and on inquiries realized that Trinity
Cathedral was within walking distance from the museum and hence headed in the direction of the
Cathedral.
Entrance charges to Trinity Cathedral also called Kidist Selassie in Amharic was 200 Birr and the cathedral built in 1941 is the largest and most magnificent of all Orthodox churches in Ethiopia. This cathedral was built to commemorate Ethiopia's liberation from Italian occupation and bears the title " Menbere Tsebaot" meaning " Pyre Altar". Shoes have to be removed before entering the magnificent Cathedral. For the first time in my life I was entering the Ethiopian Orthodox church having visited the Russian Orthodox church in Helsinki and Tallinn. I had now completed my life’s pilgrimage of visiting all the places of worship of the different branches of the Christian faith across the World. One major difference I observed in the Ethiopian orthodox church was the worshippers dressed in pure white clothing while inside the church akin to the Jain religion in India.Inside the Cathedral viewed the tombs of Emperor Haile.Selassie and his wife Empress Menen.Asfaw as also other members of the Royal family
The method of
praying for penance was also different compared to the Catholic branch of
Christianity. Photography was allowed and clicked beautiful photo’s of this magnificent church.The exterior architecture
of the Cathedral does have some similarities
to St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The Ethiopian Orthodox church celebrates
Christmas annualy on the 7th of January based on the Julian calendar. Outside the Cathedral in the courtyard are some prominent tombs of those who fought against "Italian Occupation" including the tomb of Sylvia.Pankhurst, a prominent left communist and Anti-Fascist.Other Tombs are of late Patriarchs Abune Tekle.Haimanot and Abune.Paulos of the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church as also the tomb of Late Ethiopian Prime Minister Meles.Zenawi.Other tombs in the Courtyard are of prominent Ethiopians who accompanied the Emperor into exile during the Italian occupation from 1936 to 1941, the only instance when Ethiopia was ruled by a Foreign power.After
visiting the Cathedral boarded the N0 35 bus and alighted at Meskel Square. From Meskel Square boarded the famous
jam packed shared mini bus taxi heading towards
Bole Airport and alighted at Dembel Square with the fare being just 1.25 Birr.
Public
transport is cheap in Ethiopia provided a person can adjust to travelling in cramped conditions most of the time.Walked to my hostel and paid the entire hostel bill in advance upto
Monday(1/1/2018) having dropped the plan of visiting Harar which is one of the
Holiest places of worship for Muslims and also World famous for its wild street
hyena’s. There would be ample wildlife safaris in Uganda and Rwanda."Selam Pesnsion" hotel was centrally located in the heart of Addis Ababa city with excellent public transport.Bizzare but true.Sometimes a adversity or a loss can turn out to be a path to better opportunities or experiences. After a
brief rest went for a walk along the road leading to Bole Airport and marvelled at the
spaciousness as well as cleanliness of the roads of Addis Ababa.
The bread products in Addis Ababa is excellent and purchased a packet of bread sticks from “Shoa Bakery & Flour Factory P.L.C” which has a string of branches in the city. Strangely banana’s are expensive akin to Europe costing 10 Birr/banana as the same has to be imported from neighbouring country's.. Within a day I had become a local barring the language. Travel educates and I am never ever bored on my solo tours , always learning or teaching through the Internet as well as personal interactions with locals.There was a short power outage between 1815 to 1900 hrs in the locality which happens occasionally in Addis Ababa.
Dinner was at the now familiar restaurant “Amen
bar and restaurant” which is a favourite with the local youth as it screens live football matches on its giant television screen. Today I was early
and the housefull crowd of yesterday was absent as Manchester United were
playing yesterday and a strong bias towards English league football among the locals. It was a
candle-light dinner of meat fried rice and a glass of draught beer costing 64
Birr. After dinner purchased the streetside
fried chips and made my way back to the cosy room “V1”.Turned on the television
and thankfully channel N0 860 of “Nile
Sat” has excellent non English music featuring sexy men and women akin to M.T.V
or “VH1” of the Western World of music entertainment .More similar to India’s Bollywood
songs.
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| Ethiopian Kava Coffee served in "Jebena" for breakfast |
As a partial insomniac whiled the early morning hours watching the excellent music channel akin to VH1 or MTV but in a foreign language. At 0545 hrs had a luke warm water bath in the shower which trickled water and thankful that at least hot water service was available. Today would be my first exploration of Addis Ababa after the terrible shock recovery of discovering that a certain “Tiru Hotel” had closed business thus leaving me homeless in Addis Ababa. Sheer luck and my decades of travel experience came to my rescue in finding alternate accomodation at the spur of the moment.Made my way out of the hotel at 0730 hrs and headed in the direction of Meskel Square. Noticed numerous shoe-shine men along the footpath with the street gradually getting crowded. Addis Ababa has “Left Side Driving” and hence it took time for me to get adjusted to looking in the right direction to see a on-coming vehicle while crossing the road..Breakfast was at “Mulu Bole road snack and restaurant”, a authentic local Addis Ababa breakfast locale for the locals. Breakfast was fried eggs with local hand ground Ethiopian Kava coffee served in a traditional Jebena clay pot. Excellent with the bill amounting to 54 Birr.After breakfast walked all the way towards Meskel Square and visited the Tourism office that was desolate with myself being the only tourist. Made some inquires and also collected a few brochures.
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| Trinity Cathedral with its Bell Tower |
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| "4 Kilo(Arat Kilo) Square" |
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| Replica of "LUCY" in National Museum. |
A local gentleman guided me to the 31 nos bus stop and we both boarded the bus with the ticket being 1.5 Birr. Luckily he was heading to the same destination and we both alighted at Nation museum stop.My travel blogs on www.blooger.com and writings on “Tripadvisor” has helped numerous readers and hence providence or Karma repaid me during my solo travels. Entrance to the museum was 10 Birr and I instantly headed towards the “Lucy Replica” exhibit. A group of Italian as well as English tourists were in the museum with their respective language guides. Excellent museum explaining the origins of human as well as evolution of various animal species. The museum had three floors, a basement, ground floor, first floor and second floor. Each floor had a exhibition of various aspects of Ethiopian history with the basement exhibiting the origins of species with the replica exhibit of the World famous “LUCY” discovered in the village of Hadar in Ethiopia. "Lucy" is the common name of "AL 288-1" which consists of pieces of bone fossil representing 40% of a skeleton of the hominin species "Austalopithecus Afarensis" which is carbon dated to be approximately 3.2 million years old.
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| Ethiopian Royal Crowns in National museum |
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| Front Entrance view of Trinity Cathedral(Kidist Selassie) |
Entrance charges to Trinity Cathedral also called Kidist Selassie in Amharic was 200 Birr and the cathedral built in 1941 is the largest and most magnificent of all Orthodox churches in Ethiopia. This cathedral was built to commemorate Ethiopia's liberation from Italian occupation and bears the title " Menbere Tsebaot" meaning " Pyre Altar". Shoes have to be removed before entering the magnificent Cathedral. For the first time in my life I was entering the Ethiopian Orthodox church having visited the Russian Orthodox church in Helsinki and Tallinn. I had now completed my life’s pilgrimage of visiting all the places of worship of the different branches of the Christian faith across the World. One major difference I observed in the Ethiopian orthodox church was the worshippers dressed in pure white clothing while inside the church akin to the Jain religion in India.Inside the Cathedral viewed the tombs of Emperor Haile.Selassie and his wife Empress Menen.Asfaw as also other members of the Royal family
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| Inside Trinity Cathedral (Kidist Selassie) |
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| Tomb of Haiele Selassie & wife in Trinity.Cathedral. |
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| Tombs in the Courtyard of Trinity Cathedral |
The bread products in Addis Ababa is excellent and purchased a packet of bread sticks from “Shoa Bakery & Flour Factory P.L.C” which has a string of branches in the city. Strangely banana’s are expensive akin to Europe costing 10 Birr/banana as the same has to be imported from neighbouring country's.. Within a day I had become a local barring the language. Travel educates and I am never ever bored on my solo tours , always learning or teaching through the Internet as well as personal interactions with locals.There was a short power outage between 1815 to 1900 hrs in the locality which happens occasionally in Addis Ababa.
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| Travelling like a local Ethiopian on a public bus. |
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| A View of St George's Cathedral. |
Thursday(28/12/2017) Addis Ababa :-
Walked out of my hostel room at 0745 hrs and down the familiar road
towards Meskel Square.
Came across youngsters practicing their football skills on the hard concrete ground of Meskel Square After 0900 hrs this same open cocrete ground would become a "Vehicle Parking " lot .Decided to visit the Addis Ababa stadium and get a feel of the ground that has produced athletes that became household names in the niche World of distance running. The stadium was closed and breakfast was at a open air bar cum restaurant named “Chill” .An excellent breakfast of Omellete prepared with salad and Ethiopian Kava coffee.Also observed fresh green shoots being spread on the ground in front of the restaurant akin to hay and on inquiry was told its a common ritual for good luck.After breakfast headed to the Ethiopian Tourist office and the young tourist information officer Mr Dereje.Girma gave me directions through the tourist map but did not provide me with a free map as is normal in most popular city's especially in Europe.
Seems most tourists visit Ethiopia through pre-booked junket tours and hence lack of tourists at the tourist office.Thanking him began my marathon walk towards Mexico Square with my destination being St George’s Cathedral situated on Churchill street. Inquiring for directions and on reaching Gambia street discovered the “Holy Saviour Church” which is a Catholic church run by the Capuchin brothers . Entered the church which had just one worshipper and otherwise absolutely empty reminding me of the palatial churches in Europe. Excellently designed and a well maintained church .From the church it was a long straight uphill walk towards Churchill street.
Next reached the National Theatre of Addis Ababa which has the giant black granite statue of the "Lion of Juddah" erected on the Western side of Unity Square on Churchill avenue.This monumant commemorates the "Silver Jubilee" of Emperor Haiele Selassie in 1955.This monument serves as the symbol of the advertisement logo to the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of Ethiopia with the slogan "Thirteen Months of Sunshine". Ethiopia is the only country in the World that follows the Julian calender while the rest of the World follows the Gregorian calender and hence has 13 months instead of the normal 12 months.
The "Lion Of Juddah" is a symbol of resistance and heroism to Ethiopians especially during the rule of the Monarchy. The lion was viewed as a symbol of Imperial dignity and there are two "Lion of Judah" statues in Addis Ababa. The other statue is of a bronze lion erected on the square to the Addis Ababa railway station.and commemorates Emperor Menelik who devoted time to building the railway sytem of Ethiopia.Addis Ababa is made up of hills and hence its rare to find a straight road and felt I was on a hill trek on a rarefied altitude trekking expedition !Suddenly a young local man joined me and as usual decided to be my guide .Mr Dawete.Tamrate explained me a few of the plush skyscraper buildings and offices while I was mimicking a Haile Gebrelaisse uphill marathon walk. Happy that at my young age a few authentic youngsters would get a age complex akin to myself on seeing celebrity rocker Mick Jagger and the “Rolling Stones” performing in their 70’s at a age when they should be in their rocking chairs discussing the achievements of their grandchildren.Age is a number.
We stopped at the "Ethiopian Korea War Veterans Memorial Park" that had a beautiful fountain
garden where I took some photographs .This entire stretch of road was definitely the poshest business locality of the city with tall office buildings, a International French school and shopping mall. Swimming 2 Kms daily in Mumbai tested
my uphill Marathon walk to the hilt
finally reaching my destination of Menelik II Square . Thanked
Mr Dawete while also tipping him for his services .The entrance to St Georges
Cathedral was 100 Birr with additional tips charges for a guide’s services.This church is a landmark with its unique octagonal shape and built on the pinnacle of the hill above Menelik II square.. A self-qualified
history student myself decided to avoid the services of a guide to tour the
museum. A American couple were the only other visitors besides me and hence the
museum curator Mr Mebratu agreed to allow me to join the American couple for free
on a guided tour of the small church
museum.
At the entrance to the museum is a large bell which was presented to the church by Nicholas II , the last Russian Czar. As we began the tour we were joined by a young Italian couple and the short tour was excellent thanks to guide Mr Mebratu. The Rastafarians whose most famous celebrity is late singer Bob.Marley consider Haiele Selaisse a God and St Georges church a place of pilgrimage since the Coronation of Empress Zewditu took place in this cathedral in 1913 and later Emperor Haile Selaise was also crowned King in St George’s Cathedral in 1930, The Rastafari movement has approximately 7,00,000 to 1 million followers and they consider Emperor Haile.Selassie as the returned Messiah of the Bible and he belonged to the Solomonic dynasty .The 1973 Ethiopia Famine led to Haile.Selassie's removal from the throne and he died on 27 August 1975 at thge age of 83 after a Coup d'etat.Haile.Selassie remains a defining figure of Ethiopian history. After the museum tour went up to the Church bell tower .
Next myself and the young Italian couple were given a private tour of the Church which seemed very small for a large congregation.We walked in a circle round the interior of the church where a large drum was kept on the floor of the Cathedral.Guide Mr Mebratu explained us that the large end of the drum signified the "Old Testament" while the smaller end signified the "New Testament".The paintings on the Cathedral interior walls portrayed scenes drom the Bible and Ethiopian history. Thanked Mr Mebratu with a tip and headed towards the Light rail Metro station with my next itinerary being Mercado market.
Was initially sent in the wrong direction on a wild goose chase but this hard core sailor ,a veteran of 63 Country visits to date and a few global circumnavigations on ships is no “Package tour trademark” tourist .Finally found Menelik II station situated just outside St George Cathedral realizing that I was walking in circles around the same area. Addis Ababa "Light Rail System" was opened a few years ago on 20 September 2015 and is a 17 Km railway line running from the City centre to Industrial areas in the South of the city. Excellent 2 coach A/c train with the ticket being only 1.5 Birr. A local gentleman guided me to my destination "Gojam Berenda" station which was just two stops away from my starting point at Menelik II station. On entering one of the main streets of the Grand Mercato market felt I was in some familiar locale of Mumbai city in India except for a different race of people.The word Mercato is from the Italian vocabulary which means market.
I was the lone Asian Brownie tourist among a sea of local Black Africans selling all kinds of wares ranging from counterfeit clothing ,shoes , gold jewellery and anything that could be sold. Just saw a minuscule part of Africa’s largest market as touring the entire market would require a guide as well as a entire day or day's. After a refreshment of a glass of warm milk in a restaurant walked out of the hustle bustle of Mercato market and on purchasing a train ticket costing 4 Birr boarded the Light rail cute two coach train to Stadium station. Locals would be excused for mistaking me to be Ethiopian for as a traveller I personally feel that no tourist can understand a city unless they have travelled like the locals. From the train got a view of the other face of Addis Ababa which is its slum living akin to Mumbai.
The City centre ,its periphery and the locality of my hotel upto Bole airport was plush Addis Ababa city.The train journey gave me a bird's eye view of Addis Ababa's suburbs which was not as fancy as the main city. On alighting at the elevated Stadium station walked down the overhead stairway and entered “Liyu Muya Bar & Restaurant”, a plush restaurant with a Christmas tree decoration. The Ethiopian Coptic church celebrates Christmas annually on January 7th and non Coptic tourist Christians would be celebrating two Christmases if visiting Ethiopia during the first week of January. Lunch was “Fish/Rice” with a pint of St George beer .The total bill amounted to 93 Birr, reasonable for the locale of this plush restaurant situated in the heart of the city. After lunch walked into the “Ethiopian Tourist office” and sought guidance for my further discoveries from Mr Dereje. Girma. A huge set of Tusks besides some deer heads adorned this 43 years old tourist office and on inquiry was told that the tusks were genuine and not replica’s. This elephant must have been one giant of a tusker .
Without Mr Dreje.Girma’s guidance my tour of Addis Ababa would have been difficult and Karma was repaying me for my free services on travel to readers of “Trip Adviser” and other sites. From the tourism office walked uphill along “4 Kilo(Arat Kilo in Amharic language)” road past St Stephen’s Church towards the Hilton Hotel. On entering the plush hotel premises was amazed on seeing the festive Christmas décor inside the hotel .Went to the plush Ethiopian Airways office and got my ticket re-checked as the “Tiru Hotel” fiasco was too fresh in memory and once bitten twice shy proverb is one of my mantra’s on “Solo travel survival”.
After confirming my ticket just loafed around the plush hotel and came across “Kenya Airways” office situated on the palatial hotel estate. Mombasa’s iconic “Tusker” road advertisement brought back memories of the city of my birth and my ship's visit to Mombasa in 1988 . Walked back from Hilton hotel towards Meskel Square road junction and returned back to the hotel on the crowded shared taxi costing 1.5 Birr. Inquired regarding English channels on “Nile Sat” T.v and hostel attendant Mr Diriba on searching finally got me “Zee Channel” screening Hindi films dubbed in Arabic.
My Bonny(Hindi slang for First) film on Ethiopian T.V was the Amitabh Bachchan hit film “Akhri Raasta” followed by “Bride and Prejudice” in original Hindi with Arabic subtitles. Definitely I was now not feeling homesick in my palatial cold hotel room.Dinner was a beer at “Bridge Hotel” a nightclub situated on the main road just walking distance from my hotel . This hotel was a stand-out in the vicinity as the entire building was lit up in decoration lights. Had a glass of beer costing 15 Birr and akin to Amen Hotel situated a few meters away in the opposite direction there was a large T.V on the hotel premises broadcasting football and sports news .After the beer/ dinner ate a light snack of potato finger chips sold on the footpath.Had to control my diet and weight as beer drinking was becoming a daily affair in Addis Ababa.
 |
| Early morning football practise at Meskel Square. |
Came across youngsters practicing their football skills on the hard concrete ground of Meskel Square After 0900 hrs this same open cocrete ground would become a "Vehicle Parking " lot .Decided to visit the Addis Ababa stadium and get a feel of the ground that has produced athletes that became household names in the niche World of distance running. The stadium was closed and breakfast was at a open air bar cum restaurant named “Chill” .An excellent breakfast of Omellete prepared with salad and Ethiopian Kava coffee.Also observed fresh green shoots being spread on the ground in front of the restaurant akin to hay and on inquiry was told its a common ritual for good luck.After breakfast headed to the Ethiopian Tourist office and the young tourist information officer Mr Dereje.Girma gave me directions through the tourist map but did not provide me with a free map as is normal in most popular city's especially in Europe.
 |
| Breakfast outside Stadium at "Chill" with Kava Coffee. |
Seems most tourists visit Ethiopia through pre-booked junket tours and hence lack of tourists at the tourist office.Thanking him began my marathon walk towards Mexico Square with my destination being St George’s Cathedral situated on Churchill street. Inquiring for directions and on reaching Gambia street discovered the “Holy Saviour Church” which is a Catholic church run by the Capuchin brothers . Entered the church which had just one worshipper and otherwise absolutely empty reminding me of the palatial churches in Europe. Excellently designed and a well maintained church .From the church it was a long straight uphill walk towards Churchill street.
 |
| Holy Saviour Catholic Church |
 |
| "Lion of Juddah" statue. |
The "Lion Of Juddah" is a symbol of resistance and heroism to Ethiopians especially during the rule of the Monarchy. The lion was viewed as a symbol of Imperial dignity and there are two "Lion of Judah" statues in Addis Ababa. The other statue is of a bronze lion erected on the square to the Addis Ababa railway station.and commemorates Emperor Menelik who devoted time to building the railway sytem of Ethiopia.Addis Ababa is made up of hills and hence its rare to find a straight road and felt I was on a hill trek on a rarefied altitude trekking expedition !Suddenly a young local man joined me and as usual decided to be my guide .Mr Dawete.Tamrate explained me a few of the plush skyscraper buildings and offices while I was mimicking a Haile Gebrelaisse uphill marathon walk. Happy that at my young age a few authentic youngsters would get a age complex akin to myself on seeing celebrity rocker Mick Jagger and the “Rolling Stones” performing in their 70’s at a age when they should be in their rocking chairs discussing the achievements of their grandchildren.Age is a number.
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| At "Ethiopian Korea War Veterans Memorial Park". |
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| Ethiopian Korea war Veterans memorial park. |
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| Giant Wine pot in "St George's Cathedral compound. |
Next myself and the young Italian couple were given a private tour of the Church which seemed very small for a large congregation.We walked in a circle round the interior of the church where a large drum was kept on the floor of the Cathedral.Guide Mr Mebratu explained us that the large end of the drum signified the "Old Testament" while the smaller end signified the "New Testament".The paintings on the Cathedral interior walls portrayed scenes drom the Bible and Ethiopian history. Thanked Mr Mebratu with a tip and headed towards the Light rail Metro station with my next itinerary being Mercado market.
 |
| Inside St George's Cathedral |
Was initially sent in the wrong direction on a wild goose chase but this hard core sailor ,a veteran of 63 Country visits to date and a few global circumnavigations on ships is no “Package tour trademark” tourist .Finally found Menelik II station situated just outside St George Cathedral realizing that I was walking in circles around the same area. Addis Ababa "Light Rail System" was opened a few years ago on 20 September 2015 and is a 17 Km railway line running from the City centre to Industrial areas in the South of the city. Excellent 2 coach A/c train with the ticket being only 1.5 Birr. A local gentleman guided me to my destination "Gojam Berenda" station which was just two stops away from my starting point at Menelik II station. On entering one of the main streets of the Grand Mercato market felt I was in some familiar locale of Mumbai city in India except for a different race of people.The word Mercato is from the Italian vocabulary which means market.
 |
| Inside St George's Cathedral |
I was the lone Asian Brownie tourist among a sea of local Black Africans selling all kinds of wares ranging from counterfeit clothing ,shoes , gold jewellery and anything that could be sold. Just saw a minuscule part of Africa’s largest market as touring the entire market would require a guide as well as a entire day or day's. After a refreshment of a glass of warm milk in a restaurant walked out of the hustle bustle of Mercato market and on purchasing a train ticket costing 4 Birr boarded the Light rail cute two coach train to Stadium station. Locals would be excused for mistaking me to be Ethiopian for as a traveller I personally feel that no tourist can understand a city unless they have travelled like the locals. From the train got a view of the other face of Addis Ababa which is its slum living akin to Mumbai.
 |
| "Bell Tower" of St George's Cathedral. |
The City centre ,its periphery and the locality of my hotel upto Bole airport was plush Addis Ababa city.The train journey gave me a bird's eye view of Addis Ababa's suburbs which was not as fancy as the main city. On alighting at the elevated Stadium station walked down the overhead stairway and entered “Liyu Muya Bar & Restaurant”, a plush restaurant with a Christmas tree decoration. The Ethiopian Coptic church celebrates Christmas annually on January 7th and non Coptic tourist Christians would be celebrating two Christmases if visiting Ethiopia during the first week of January. Lunch was “Fish/Rice” with a pint of St George beer .The total bill amounted to 93 Birr, reasonable for the locale of this plush restaurant situated in the heart of the city. After lunch walked into the “Ethiopian Tourist office” and sought guidance for my further discoveries from Mr Dereje. Girma. A huge set of Tusks besides some deer heads adorned this 43 years old tourist office and on inquiry was told that the tusks were genuine and not replica’s. This elephant must have been one giant of a tusker .
 |
| Glimpse of "Mercato Market".Largest in Africa. |
Without Mr Dreje.Girma’s guidance my tour of Addis Ababa would have been difficult and Karma was repaying me for my free services on travel to readers of “Trip Adviser” and other sites. From the tourism office walked uphill along “4 Kilo(Arat Kilo in Amharic language)” road past St Stephen’s Church towards the Hilton Hotel. On entering the plush hotel premises was amazed on seeing the festive Christmas décor inside the hotel .Went to the plush Ethiopian Airways office and got my ticket re-checked as the “Tiru Hotel” fiasco was too fresh in memory and once bitten twice shy proverb is one of my mantra’s on “Solo travel survival”.
 |
| Boarding the "Light Rail Train" in Addis Ababa. |
After confirming my ticket just loafed around the plush hotel and came across “Kenya Airways” office situated on the palatial hotel estate. Mombasa’s iconic “Tusker” road advertisement brought back memories of the city of my birth and my ship's visit to Mombasa in 1988 . Walked back from Hilton hotel towards Meskel Square road junction and returned back to the hotel on the crowded shared taxi costing 1.5 Birr. Inquired regarding English channels on “Nile Sat” T.v and hostel attendant Mr Diriba on searching finally got me “Zee Channel” screening Hindi films dubbed in Arabic.
 |
| Narrow crowded vegerable market in Mercato |
My Bonny(Hindi slang for First) film on Ethiopian T.V was the Amitabh Bachchan hit film “Akhri Raasta” followed by “Bride and Prejudice” in original Hindi with Arabic subtitles. Definitely I was now not feeling homesick in my palatial cold hotel room.Dinner was a beer at “Bridge Hotel” a nightclub situated on the main road just walking distance from my hotel . This hotel was a stand-out in the vicinity as the entire building was lit up in decoration lights. Had a glass of beer costing 15 Birr and akin to Amen Hotel situated a few meters away in the opposite direction there was a large T.V on the hotel premises broadcasting football and sports news .After the beer/ dinner ate a light snack of potato finger chips sold on the footpath.Had to control my diet and weight as beer drinking was becoming a daily affair in Addis Ababa.
 |
| At the Addis Ababa Stadium :- Impersonating a few of my Ethiopian long distance running heroes. |
Friday(29/12/2017) Addis Ababa :- A partial insomniac night due to no
apparent reason. Searched the T.V Channels and discovered “Al Jazeera English News”, the only English
channel on “Nile Sat” .
Tragedy in Mumbai
in Kamala mills as a large fire killed 14 people .Here in Addis Ababa
the weather is too bizarre with warm
bright Sunny day time temps of 22* C and a extreme cold temp of 5* + at
night which left me shivering inspite of blanket and a sweater. The hotel's palatial toilet was clogged and excreta was having a reverse flow from the
drain .Thankfully I had my early morning hot water bathe at 0530 hrs and few guests were using the common bathe/toilet.The hotel
is excellently situated with all the prime sights of Addis Ababa easily
reachable by public transport .
It has taken me a travel experience of
decades to behave like the Romans in Rome and do not blame local Ethiopians for
mistaking me as a local.Hence i took it in my stride on realizing the fact that the hotel's common bathe/ toilet sewage sump was blocked with sewage flowing back from the drain into the bathroom. Left the hotel at 0745 hrs in chill cold morning
weather.To the locals it seems I was heading to office as were most of the pedestrians.Shoeshine boys were doing
brisk business shining the shoes of both men and women officegoers.
On reaching Meskel Square crossed the crossroad and headed towards St Stephens church to board the local bus or shared taxi cab at the stand situated on the footpath at the entrance gate of the Church. Boarded N0 56 bus and alighted at "6 Kilo Square(Sidist Kilo in Amharic language)" from where it was a short walk to Addis Ababa University. Had a mild breakfast of vegetarian Samosa, from a street vendor and later a piece of cake and Kava coffee at the restaurant situated outside the University campus. The “Ethnological Museum of Ethiopia” is situated inside the Addis Ababa university campus and had to deposit my driving license with the security guard to enter the University Campus as i was not carrying my passport.
On entering the Campus ground was transferred into a different World
of youth students and palatial garden with fountains.Students all over the World are the same bringing back memories of my own college day's in Mumbai..
The building housing the Ethnological museum was the former residential palace
of Emperor Haiele Selassie and entrance fee to the museum was 100 Birr. Entered the museum premises which housed a library on the
ground floor and also offices of the University administration in the same building. In the entrance passageway on the ground floor are contemporary photographs and a brief history of Addis Ababa University.
The Ethnological museum was on the first floor and the first sight that greets the visitor is the stuffed lion named "Gillo" gifted to Emperor Haile Selassie which died in 1951 and now preserved through taxidermy. The main museum on the first floor depicts the culture and various tribes and tribal customs of Ethiopia.and also explains the various religions of Ethiopia which is a multicultural society .As this building was the former residential Palace of Emperor Haile Sellassie his residential premises have been preserved in their originality.
Visited his bedroom as also the bedroom of his wife Empress Menen and the spacious bathroom/toilet of the Royals. A peep into Ethiopian Royalty privacy living quarters.On the second floor was a exhibition as well as artworks of religious icons and articrafts that explain Ethiopian Coptic society and religious practices.This collection of religious icons is the largest in the World and photography was not allowed.The "Ethnological Museum of Ethiopia" is one of the best museums in Africa. After completing the tour made my exit while not forgetting to collect my driving licence from the security guard.At times my absent mindedness scares me of being a future candidate for "Alzhemeirs disease" as a almost fatal motorcycle accident in 2007 has definitely had some side-effects on my memory with progressive age .Till that day make the best use of my present memory.Very similar to a few "American Football" player's suffering memory loss due to excessive head banging collisions during their footballing career.Although a great fan of boxer Muhammed Ali hope with age i don't suffer from memory lapses.Otherwise as young and physically fit as a teenager with the motto "Age is just a chronological number " !
We all have to die some day.Was lucky to get a seat in a shared mini van taxi heading to the Stadium.On alighting at the stadium decided to visit the stadium and realizing my childhood dreams of stepping onto soil on which some of the World’s greatest men and women long distance runners began their careers before becoming household names.The stadium was well maintained being also used as a football ground .From the stadium walked over to the ground near Meskel Square that had camped tents selling local Ethiopian products from food items to clothing.Next decided to visit the “Christmas Carnival Fair” held on the"Addis Ababa Exhibition ground" at Meskel Square . A large hoarding advertising the various rock and pop bands playing at this "Grand Trade Fair and Christmas fetival" beginning from 16 December 2017 and ending on 6 December 2018 was the reason i entered the fair grounds.
Entrance to the fair was 20 Birr and as usual it was a typical fair seen in any place around the globe with a emphasis on local culture and themes. Excellent Christmas decorations as Sunday January 7th is the Julian calendar date of celebrating the birth of Christ by the Ethiopian Orthodox Coptic church. There was a stage at one end of the large ground which was for a live band performance in the evening.In the afternoon i was too earlyt this venue to listen to live music and hence decided to visit the carnival once again tomorrow evening as it was walking distance from my hotel. Prices of eatables were highly inflated as is the norm in fairs and after consuming a pint of St George beer headed out of the fair onto Meskel square and boarded a shared taxi to my hotel home in Dembel Square.
Its a uphill walk from Meskel square to Dembel Square and hence I always boarded the shared taxi unlike my morning walk to the same location which is a downhill walk . On alighting at Dembel Square walked the short distance to Amen bar and restaurant for my lunch which consisted of the local pancake and a meat dish costing a total of 70 Birr. Beef is the normal common meat sold in restaurants.After lunch came back to my hotel and after a drink of free Kava on the palatial hostel lawn headed to my room and began my blogging.In the evening took a stroll in the vicinity and visited Dembel City center mall which was decorated for the festive Christmas season.Came across a Florist shop that had excellent cuttings of flower arrangements .
All malls worldwide are the same and this was a small mall without escalators .This square‘s name was actually “Ethopian Nations Nationalities and Peoples Square” but is popularly called “Dembel Square” after this small mall. From the Square next walked towards the road leading to Bole Airport .The tallest artificial Christmas tree in Addis Ababa seems to be at Dembel Square erected outside the GCC mall building. Having toured the most prominent plush localities of Addis Ababa had yet to spot a “Christmas Tree” this tall .Strangely seems butter and cheese are not everyday food products popular with the locals as none of the small shops or grocery stores around my locality stored these common items. Bread products are very popular food items and have tasted some of the best breads in Addis Ababa on par with Europe and hence puzzled as to the reason of butter or cheese missing from grocery stores. Dinner was a light snack of the popular street side finger chips along with bread but consumed without butter or cheese. Ethiopia is definitely a totally different unique Country in many ways besides following the Julian calendar in celebrating Christmas and New Year. Unlike neighbouring Kenya I haven’t come across barbeque meat being sold on street side café’s and Addis Ababa Ethiopians are more vegetarian than Non-Vegetarian in food habits. Even the popular street side samosa’s and patties are made of pure vegetable products. Travel educates.
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| Shared "Mini-Bus Taxi's" of Addis Ababa |
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| Entrance to "Ethnological Museum of Ethiopia". |
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| Bedroom of Emperor Haile Selassie in Museum |
On reaching Meskel Square crossed the crossroad and headed towards St Stephens church to board the local bus or shared taxi cab at the stand situated on the footpath at the entrance gate of the Church. Boarded N0 56 bus and alighted at "6 Kilo Square(Sidist Kilo in Amharic language)" from where it was a short walk to Addis Ababa University. Had a mild breakfast of vegetarian Samosa, from a street vendor and later a piece of cake and Kava coffee at the restaurant situated outside the University campus. The “Ethnological Museum of Ethiopia” is situated inside the Addis Ababa university campus and had to deposit my driving license with the security guard to enter the University Campus as i was not carrying my passport.
 |
| Palatial university library in Museum building. |
 |
| "Gillo" greeting visitors to Ethnological Museum |
The Ethnological museum was on the first floor and the first sight that greets the visitor is the stuffed lion named "Gillo" gifted to Emperor Haile Selassie which died in 1951 and now preserved through taxidermy. The main museum on the first floor depicts the culture and various tribes and tribal customs of Ethiopia.and also explains the various religions of Ethiopia which is a multicultural society .As this building was the former residential Palace of Emperor Haile Sellassie his residential premises have been preserved in their originality.
 |
| Main entrance gate to "Addis Ababa University" |
Visited his bedroom as also the bedroom of his wife Empress Menen and the spacious bathroom/toilet of the Royals. A peep into Ethiopian Royalty privacy living quarters.On the second floor was a exhibition as well as artworks of religious icons and articrafts that explain Ethiopian Coptic society and religious practices.This collection of religious icons is the largest in the World and photography was not allowed.The "Ethnological Museum of Ethiopia" is one of the best museums in Africa. After completing the tour made my exit while not forgetting to collect my driving licence from the security guard.At times my absent mindedness scares me of being a future candidate for "Alzhemeirs disease" as a almost fatal motorcycle accident in 2007 has definitely had some side-effects on my memory with progressive age .Till that day make the best use of my present memory.Very similar to a few "American Football" player's suffering memory loss due to excessive head banging collisions during their footballing career.Although a great fan of boxer Muhammed Ali hope with age i don't suffer from memory lapses.Otherwise as young and physically fit as a teenager with the motto "Age is just a chronological number " !
 |
| Local temporary tent market near Meskel Square. |
We all have to die some day.Was lucky to get a seat in a shared mini van taxi heading to the Stadium.On alighting at the stadium decided to visit the stadium and realizing my childhood dreams of stepping onto soil on which some of the World’s greatest men and women long distance runners began their careers before becoming household names.The stadium was well maintained being also used as a football ground .From the stadium walked over to the ground near Meskel Square that had camped tents selling local Ethiopian products from food items to clothing.Next decided to visit the “Christmas Carnival Fair” held on the"Addis Ababa Exhibition ground" at Meskel Square . A large hoarding advertising the various rock and pop bands playing at this "Grand Trade Fair and Christmas fetival" beginning from 16 December 2017 and ending on 6 December 2018 was the reason i entered the fair grounds.
 |
| Christmas Carnival Fair |
Entrance to the fair was 20 Birr and as usual it was a typical fair seen in any place around the globe with a emphasis on local culture and themes. Excellent Christmas decorations as Sunday January 7th is the Julian calendar date of celebrating the birth of Christ by the Ethiopian Orthodox Coptic church. There was a stage at one end of the large ground which was for a live band performance in the evening.In the afternoon i was too earlyt this venue to listen to live music and hence decided to visit the carnival once again tomorrow evening as it was walking distance from my hotel. Prices of eatables were highly inflated as is the norm in fairs and after consuming a pint of St George beer headed out of the fair onto Meskel square and boarded a shared taxi to my hotel home in Dembel Square.
 |
| Steps from "Merkel Square" leading to Carnival ground. |
Its a uphill walk from Meskel square to Dembel Square and hence I always boarded the shared taxi unlike my morning walk to the same location which is a downhill walk . On alighting at Dembel Square walked the short distance to Amen bar and restaurant for my lunch which consisted of the local pancake and a meat dish costing a total of 70 Birr. Beef is the normal common meat sold in restaurants.After lunch came back to my hotel and after a drink of free Kava on the palatial hostel lawn headed to my room and began my blogging.In the evening took a stroll in the vicinity and visited Dembel City center mall which was decorated for the festive Christmas season.Came across a Florist shop that had excellent cuttings of flower arrangements .
 |
| Tallest Christmas tree on Bole Airport road. |
All malls worldwide are the same and this was a small mall without escalators .This square‘s name was actually “Ethopian Nations Nationalities and Peoples Square” but is popularly called “Dembel Square” after this small mall. From the Square next walked towards the road leading to Bole Airport .The tallest artificial Christmas tree in Addis Ababa seems to be at Dembel Square erected outside the GCC mall building. Having toured the most prominent plush localities of Addis Ababa had yet to spot a “Christmas Tree” this tall .Strangely seems butter and cheese are not everyday food products popular with the locals as none of the small shops or grocery stores around my locality stored these common items. Bread products are very popular food items and have tasted some of the best breads in Addis Ababa on par with Europe and hence puzzled as to the reason of butter or cheese missing from grocery stores. Dinner was a light snack of the popular street side finger chips along with bread but consumed without butter or cheese. Ethiopia is definitely a totally different unique Country in many ways besides following the Julian calendar in celebrating Christmas and New Year. Unlike neighbouring Kenya I haven’t come across barbeque meat being sold on street side café’s and Addis Ababa Ethiopians are more vegetarian than Non-Vegetarian in food habits. Even the popular street side samosa’s and patties are made of pure vegetable products. Travel educates.
 |
| Addis Ababa Exhibition Centre :- Live Rock music performance celebrating Christmas Festivities. |
Saturday(30/12/2017) Addis Ababa :- Left the hotel at 0745 hrs and
boarded the shared mini van taxi to Bole Airport..The taxi ride cost 4 birr and
terminates near Bole airport.
Asking directions walked through a lane across Bole road onto Cameroon avenue road.The weather was now pleasant at approximately 20* C from the minimum night temps of 5 to 8 * C in my hotel room. Was getting accustomed to daily extreme changes in ambient temps in a span of 24 hrs.Entered a ramshackle tin hut next to the main road and for the first time tasted Ethiopian tea which akin to coffee is also served without milk.Tea with the now routine piece of trademark Ethiopian bread was my refreshing tea of the morning.After tea it was a short straight walk along the plush Cameroon street to the majestic “Medhane Alem Orthodox cathedral(Saviour of the World)” situated at Bole Medhanealam which is the second largest church in the continent of Africa and the largest in Ethiopia..
A church service
was in progress and after a brief
exterior visit of the magnificent Cathedral made my way back towards Bole Airport road. On the way entered Selam City
mall which is miniscule in comparison to
the malls in my home city of Mumbai. From the Mall walking along Cameroon street spotted a beautiful decorated Christmas tree and hence entered "Wow Homestore" which had the best household furniture and bathroom accessories on sale.Atrosciously expensive catering to the elite income spender's of Addis Ababa .Ms Mesarat ,a lady guard at the entrance of this store requested me to take her photo standing next to the Christmas tree which i did and next she took my photo beside's the same tree. Later made inquiries and discovered the landmark “Yod Abbysinia restaurant " situated in a by-lane off Cameroon Avenue.This plush restaurant was
the equivalent of a plush 5 star restaurant
with a similar price range of exotic Ethiopian cuisine.A live band plays
music in the evenings on the stage of this restaurant which has a seating capacity for 200
people.
I was very early and hence just had a glimpse of this plush restaurant.At Bole Airport road boarded the shared taxi and was back at the now familiar Meskel Square. Breakfast of yesterday’s repeat Omellette/bread was at the stadium Adda “Chill bar and restaurant” with a few patrons sipping beer instead of tea.In Africa its common to see men drinking beer at tea time and nothing unusual. After breakfast made my way to the local tent fair ground window-shopping and later as I was crossing the road two young kids accosted me to purchase cigarettes or chewing gum.These were the same kids whom I shooed away yesterday at the same spot and today they almost pickpocketed me with my quick reflexes saving the day.Age is just achronological number ?
Although gray in beard i am not as old as my chronological age suggests and the two young kids must have been surprised at my quick hand reflexes.Both the kids pestered me and suddenly like lighting one of them tried to put his hand in my pocket which I quickly repelled with him running away as a gentleman next to me shouted at them. Moral of the story is never to be overconfident in your personal safety and these two juvenile street hawkers taught me a lesson in street smartness.This was the ugly side of Addis Ababa city as with any large city in the World . Otherwise I have felt very safe in Ethiopia unlike South Africa where i didn't step out of my hotel after sunset as Johannesburg and Cape Town which i visited are among the top 10 crime city's in the World with locals themselves admitting the same let alone the media.
Crossed the road and visited the “Red Terror Martyr’s Museum” established in 2010 and situated at Meskel Square. Entrance to the museum is free but its a formality to donate some money into the drop box kept at the entrance of this small museum. The museum depicts a phase of Ethiopian history during the Derg regime .Having visited Auschwitz in Poland and the “Killing Fields of Cambodia” found similarities with these museums although on different levels of Political genocide history and different cultures. From the museum walked the short uphill distance back to my hotel room. After consultation with the hotel receptionist decided to visit “Jan Meda” racecourse of which I had read a few reviews during my travel research.
Having completed a "Silver Jubilee" in the sport of "Horse Racing" as a common punter it would have been a cardinal sin to not visit Addis Ababa's former racecourse.Boarded the shared taxi from Dembel Square with the ticket being 4 birr and alighted at the now familiar “4 Kilo square(Arat Kilo)” .Lunch was at a local restaurant at "4 Kilo" junction consisting of the now familiar diet of Injera pancake with meat dish and beer I felt of being in Mumbai barring the extreme cold climate and the fact that I was the only Asian among a crowd of Black Africans .After lunch boarded a shared taxi from "4 Kilo" to “ 6 Kilo Square( Sidist Kilo)” and from there it was a long one Km walk to Jan Meda ground. On entering the ground I was shocked at the condition of this once former horse racecourse.The reviews told me that horse riding was done on this ground which seemed impossible considering the unevenness and uneven cracks on the ground.
Thankfully the ground has not gone to total waste and a part of the even ground is being used as a football ground.I went to the ground with the idea of doing some horse riding as a few reviews stated the same and hence the disappointment on seeing the shabbiness of what was once definitely a beautiful racecourse ground. Returned back to my hotel by the now familiar mode of transport akin to a local also realizing the convenient central location of my hotel “Selam Pension”. Purchased a black forest pastry from “La Parisienne” café situated on the road opposite Selam Pension and relaxed in my room.
At 1815
hrs left my hotel room and boarded the shared taxi to Meskel Square costing 2
Birr. Public bus and private shared taxi transport system in Addis Ababa is
excellent and cheap.At Meskel Square walked up the rock cut stairway leading to
the elevated ground of "Addis Ababa Exhibition Centre" on which the “CHRISTMAS FESTIVAL” was being celebrated. Entrance
ticket cost 30 Birr and the entire ground was packed with a housefull week-end
crowd. I had been here yesterday afternoon when it was less crowded and today
evening I was present to witness the rock/pop concert. When I entered the ground the concert was already in progress with the entire ground in front of the stage packed
with people.
A lady musician was performing on stage and although I didn’t
understand Amharic was swayed by the rhythm and style of this pretty sexy young
lady. Music is universal irrespective of language, sex or Country and here I
was enjoying Amharic rock music while sipping draught beer. There was a band
playing continuously on stage while different artists came on stage and sung their
songs. The lady was followed by a male singer who
sang romantic songs in Amharic followed by another singer while the young crowd
danced below the stage .If blindfolded and put in this locale would have
mistaken to have been at a rock concert in my home city of Mumbai barring the
language and the crowd comprising of Black African Ethiopians.
Entrance to this exotic carnival festival was cheap and there were numerous food stalls as well as commercial stalls as in any fair in any part of the Globe. Whenever I travel make it a point to taste the exotic food of the particular Country and hence entered a food stall where the cook was cutting beef meat while the stewards served the same to customers seated in the restaurant. Ordered the same dish costing 150 Birr and after a few minutes was served the fried meat on a sizzling burner along with pungent chilli sauce.A young Ethiopian couple were seated in front of me and the gentleman explained me about this exotic local beef barbeque.
To me the meat tasted semi raw and was hard to chew.I am not much of a meat eater preferring fish although very Catholic in my eating habits and would definitely have not eaten this meat if served in my home. The meat was as tough as raw hide and a delicacy among the locals. Reminded me of tasting insect and snake food during my travel across Vietnam and Cambodia and this “Half raw beef Barbeque” would fit into the extreme exotic foods I have tasted during my globe trotting travels . Normally such unique recipe's are reserved for the annual "World Explorers Club" dinner which is the World's largest gathering of explorers with its 113 th edition dinner held on March 25th 2017 on Ellis Island in New York. The World famous Explorers club annual dinner includes exotic insects and various other normally inedible food products.The food is a homage to the methods of survival at times employed by World explorers while discovering or challenging new frontiers of human endurance.The barbeque beef pot was meant for two people and hence packed the rest of the meal and walked to Meskel Square .I consider it a crime to waste food and as a solo traveller explorer i had definitely discovered a new meat recipe in Ethiopia. Boarded a shared taxi to my hotel happy that I had got a taste of Ethiopian nightlife and extreme food cuisine. Right from eating extreme Vegetarian food I had now eaten extreme non-vegetarian food in Ethiopia. The weather is also extreme with morning temperature in my hotel room being +5 to +8 *C followed by bright sunshine in the afternoon when I can relax without a shirt in my room. Travel educates.
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| Partial view of "Medhane Alem Orthodox Cathedral" |
Asking directions walked through a lane across Bole road onto Cameroon avenue road.The weather was now pleasant at approximately 20* C from the minimum night temps of 5 to 8 * C in my hotel room. Was getting accustomed to daily extreme changes in ambient temps in a span of 24 hrs.Entered a ramshackle tin hut next to the main road and for the first time tasted Ethiopian tea which akin to coffee is also served without milk.Tea with the now routine piece of trademark Ethiopian bread was my refreshing tea of the morning.After tea it was a short straight walk along the plush Cameroon street to the majestic “Medhane Alem Orthodox cathedral(Saviour of the World)” situated at Bole Medhanealam which is the second largest church in the continent of Africa and the largest in Ethiopia..
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| Entrance view of "Medhane Alem Orthodox Cathedral" |
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| Outside "Wow Homestore" on Cameroon Street. |
I was very early and hence just had a glimpse of this plush restaurant.At Bole Airport road boarded the shared taxi and was back at the now familiar Meskel Square. Breakfast of yesterday’s repeat Omellette/bread was at the stadium Adda “Chill bar and restaurant” with a few patrons sipping beer instead of tea.In Africa its common to see men drinking beer at tea time and nothing unusual. After breakfast made my way to the local tent fair ground window-shopping and later as I was crossing the road two young kids accosted me to purchase cigarettes or chewing gum.These were the same kids whom I shooed away yesterday at the same spot and today they almost pickpocketed me with my quick reflexes saving the day.Age is just achronological number ?
 |
| Visit to "Red Terror Martyr's Museum" |
Although gray in beard i am not as old as my chronological age suggests and the two young kids must have been surprised at my quick hand reflexes.Both the kids pestered me and suddenly like lighting one of them tried to put his hand in my pocket which I quickly repelled with him running away as a gentleman next to me shouted at them. Moral of the story is never to be overconfident in your personal safety and these two juvenile street hawkers taught me a lesson in street smartness.This was the ugly side of Addis Ababa city as with any large city in the World . Otherwise I have felt very safe in Ethiopia unlike South Africa where i didn't step out of my hotel after sunset as Johannesburg and Cape Town which i visited are among the top 10 crime city's in the World with locals themselves admitting the same let alone the media.
 |
| Landmark "Dembel Mall" close to my hotel location. |
Crossed the road and visited the “Red Terror Martyr’s Museum” established in 2010 and situated at Meskel Square. Entrance to the museum is free but its a formality to donate some money into the drop box kept at the entrance of this small museum. The museum depicts a phase of Ethiopian history during the Derg regime .Having visited Auschwitz in Poland and the “Killing Fields of Cambodia” found similarities with these museums although on different levels of Political genocide history and different cultures. From the museum walked the short uphill distance back to my hotel room. After consultation with the hotel receptionist decided to visit “Jan Meda” racecourse of which I had read a few reviews during my travel research.
 |
| At the barren "Jan Meda racecourse". |
Having completed a "Silver Jubilee" in the sport of "Horse Racing" as a common punter it would have been a cardinal sin to not visit Addis Ababa's former racecourse.Boarded the shared taxi from Dembel Square with the ticket being 4 birr and alighted at the now familiar “4 Kilo square(Arat Kilo)” .Lunch was at a local restaurant at "4 Kilo" junction consisting of the now familiar diet of Injera pancake with meat dish and beer I felt of being in Mumbai barring the extreme cold climate and the fact that I was the only Asian among a crowd of Black Africans .After lunch boarded a shared taxi from "4 Kilo" to “ 6 Kilo Square( Sidist Kilo)” and from there it was a long one Km walk to Jan Meda ground. On entering the ground I was shocked at the condition of this once former horse racecourse.The reviews told me that horse riding was done on this ground which seemed impossible considering the unevenness and uneven cracks on the ground.
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| Bands performing over the days at "Christmas Festival". |
Thankfully the ground has not gone to total waste and a part of the even ground is being used as a football ground.I went to the ground with the idea of doing some horse riding as a few reviews stated the same and hence the disappointment on seeing the shabbiness of what was once definitely a beautiful racecourse ground. Returned back to my hotel by the now familiar mode of transport akin to a local also realizing the convenient central location of my hotel “Selam Pension”. Purchased a black forest pastry from “La Parisienne” café situated on the road opposite Selam Pension and relaxed in my room.
 |
| "House-Full" for the "Live Band" performance |
 |
| Yes.I am attending Addis Ababa Christmas Festival. |
 |
| Rock & Pop Songs in Amharic language only. |
Entrance to this exotic carnival festival was cheap and there were numerous food stalls as well as commercial stalls as in any fair in any part of the Globe. Whenever I travel make it a point to taste the exotic food of the particular Country and hence entered a food stall where the cook was cutting beef meat while the stewards served the same to customers seated in the restaurant. Ordered the same dish costing 150 Birr and after a few minutes was served the fried meat on a sizzling burner along with pungent chilli sauce.A young Ethiopian couple were seated in front of me and the gentleman explained me about this exotic local beef barbeque.
 |
| "Half Raw Beef Sizzler" for dinner. |
To me the meat tasted semi raw and was hard to chew.I am not much of a meat eater preferring fish although very Catholic in my eating habits and would definitely have not eaten this meat if served in my home. The meat was as tough as raw hide and a delicacy among the locals. Reminded me of tasting insect and snake food during my travel across Vietnam and Cambodia and this “Half raw beef Barbeque” would fit into the extreme exotic foods I have tasted during my globe trotting travels . Normally such unique recipe's are reserved for the annual "World Explorers Club" dinner which is the World's largest gathering of explorers with its 113 th edition dinner held on March 25th 2017 on Ellis Island in New York. The World famous Explorers club annual dinner includes exotic insects and various other normally inedible food products.The food is a homage to the methods of survival at times employed by World explorers while discovering or challenging new frontiers of human endurance.The barbeque beef pot was meant for two people and hence packed the rest of the meal and walked to Meskel Square .I consider it a crime to waste food and as a solo traveller explorer i had definitely discovered a new meat recipe in Ethiopia. Boarded a shared taxi to my hotel happy that I had got a taste of Ethiopian nightlife and extreme food cuisine. Right from eating extreme Vegetarian food I had now eaten extreme non-vegetarian food in Ethiopia. The weather is also extreme with morning temperature in my hotel room being +5 to +8 *C followed by bright sunshine in the afternoon when I can relax without a shirt in my room. Travel educates.
 |
| A View of Entoto Palace. |
Sunday(31/12/2017) Addis Ababa:- Last day of the year 2017 as well as
my last day of travel in Addis Ababa.
Left my hotel room at 0730 hrs and
boarded the shared taxi to St Stephens
Church bus/Taxi stop.. From St Stephens church boarded a plush double decker bus to “ 4 Kilo(4
Arat in Amharic language )” square.My destination was the highest peak in Addis Ababa which is Mt
Entoto situated at a elevation of 3200 meters and is a part of the Entoto Mountain chain.. Addis Ababa is the fifth highest Capital city in the World.At “4 Kilo”
junction bus-stop inquired about buses with the young local shoe shine boys who
did advice me in the right direction. Decided to have breakfast and entered
plush “Papyrus Café” where breakfast was
a piece of cake along with two signature
Ethiopian kava coffee .
On the road opposite the Café was “St Mary’s Orthodox Church” where a Sunday mass was in progress. The priests sermon could be heard over the loudspeaker across the road.This is the custom in all Orthodox Ethiopian churches in Addis Ababa.A lot of similarities to Islam ? On emerging from the plush café spotted a shared taxi van and luckily it was heading to the base locality of Mt Entoto. Suddenly one of the co passengers in the taxi spoke to me in a few words of the Hindi language which surprized me .He happened to be a local Ethiopian employed in the Gulf Country’s and whose co -workers were mostly Indians from the State of Kerala. A lot of teachers in Ethiopia are also of Indian origin .Its a small World if you are Indian , a country having the second largest population in the World..
On arriving at the last drop off point at Entoto base boarded another shared taxi van and began the long uphill curved drive towards Mt Entoto situated at a height of 3,200 meters above sea level and the tallest mountain overlooking the city of Addis Ababa.These mini shared taxi vans are packed to capacity with 20 to 21 passengers being the total complement at maximum capacity. The fare to Mt Entoto was 10 Birr and the mountain side was covered with tall Eucalyptus trees as our van meandered its way through the narrow mountain curves. At 0900 hrs reached the main gate of Maryam Church(St Mary's Church) situated on the peak of Mt Entoto.The normal Ethiopian Orthodox Church mass was in progress with the head priest preaching the sermon over a loudspeaker that could be heard outside the church .
The Church compound was crowded with worshippers covered in white clothing as is customary in all Orthodox Ethiopian church ceremonies. The view of Addis Ababa was not clear due to the early morning winter haze but the weather in bright sunshine was akin to being in a open air controlled air condition environment.The 4 star resort "Yaya Athletics Village" where the famed Ethiopian runners train is based on Entoto Mountain. Haile.Gebrselassie trained in this resort . I was slowly unravelling the mystery of the “Ethiopian Long distance Runners”. After the mass walked around the Church premises also being blessed by a Ethiopian Coptic priest. A first in my lifetime of visits to the Ethiopian and Russian Coptic churches of Christianity. Later visited the Church museum on a entrance fee of 200 Birr which also allows access to the former King’s palace situated at the foot of Maryam Church(St Mary's Church).
The Church museum exhibit literature was mostly in Amharic and being a Christian I could understand the significance of most of the exhibits otherwise a local guide is advisable, From the church museum it was a short walk across the church premises onto the Palace grounds.Emperor Menelik II built this palace on Mt Entoto and made Entoto the Capital of Ethiopia in 1881.It was the first time I was viewing a ancient Palace in Africa and was surprised on seeing the simplicity of the two small buildings which were the palaces of Emperor Menelik II and his wife empress Taitu. This was during a era when the Emperor ruled most of North Central Africa and hence the simplicity and down to earth palace surprised my anticipation of viewing some enormous palace and palace grounds.
As it was a Sunday the palace and Palace grounds were filled with young Ethiopian youth visiting the palace after church services. I just didn’t want to leave the Palace grounds as the weather was one of the finest I personally experienced in years. Remember I am a frequent World jet-setter beside's having also travelled across entire India and having recently visited Europe in June/July 2017.Ethiopian long distance runners practice in these suburban mountain hills of Ethiopia in rarefied air at high altitudes akin to their Kenyan counterparts in the Rift valley of Kenya and this is one of their strongest assets in being successful on the World stage of distance running.Reluctantly bid adieu to the Palace grounds and Mt Entoto finally standing in queue to board the shared taxi back to Mt Entoto base .
Observed a long line of Jerry cans and on closer inspection realized it was a queue for collecting fresh water from a permanent tank erected on the road.I thanked God for my luxury of having tap water on 24 hrs call at my home in the city of Mumbai which also has similar water shortage problems in certain parts of the city.Most people remember Ethiopia through terrible starvation photographs of the 1983-85 famine leading to over 4,00,000 deaths which resulted in the first universal musical concert called"Live Aid" used to raise funds for the Ethiopian famine.
The"LIVEAID" concert held on 13 July 1985 was organized by Bob.Geldof and Midge.Ure with simultaneous musical concerts at Wembley Stadium in London and John.F.Kennedy stadium in Philadelphia and the both linked by satellite for a World wide audience.A First of its kind in music history with 1.9 billion people across 150 country's watching this live broadcast.This long queue of people with Jerry Cans waiting their turn to fill water on Mt Entoto will forever be etched in my memory.Travel educates. Finally boarded the shared taxi and made our way downhill from Entoto mountain. A few young local students requested me to purchase their tickets to which I obliged. Had to change 2 different shared taxi’s before finally reaching the landmark St Stephens church crossroads. Walked across towards Meskel Square and boarded the shared taxi to Bole Airport .
On reaching Bole Airport stop walked the short distance across to Cameroon avenue.The year ending Lunch of 2017 was at the plush 5 star style “Yod Abyssinia cultural restaurant”. Lunch was barbequed lamb served on a sizzling coal burner in a similar manner as was yesterday’s barbeque beef at the Christmas carnival fair. Although half raw it was more well prepared than yesterday's beef that resembled tough rubber to my taste buds. Afterthe excellent lunch walked the short distance across Cameroon avenue to Bole Airport road and boarded the shared taxi back home to Dembel Square. A few tourist guests were sitting in the hotel compound drinking Kava and chewing some green leafy shrubs. On inquiry was told it was the famous “Chat Shrub” of Ethiopia that is chewed by locals and is similar to a intoxicant.
Took a few shrubs from a guest who happened to be from Mombasa and residing at Kilindini road which brought back distant memories of my childhood in Mombasa. The “Chat” was identical to chewing “Indian Pan” and did not have any intoxication effect on my mental psyche unlike liquor."Chat" was not my cup of intoxicant for a "Ethiopian High". Relaxed in my plush hotel room watching “C.N.N” rounding the years news. Had traced Al Jazeera ,BBC,CNN and a English sports channel. Later in the evening at 1815 hrs walked downhill to Meskel Square and entered the “Addis Ababa exhibition centre” for the days Christmas festival music programme. The music programme started at approximately 1845 hrs with the opening act being a young lady singer akin to yesterday’s programme. The lady singer was then followed by a male singer and all of them were popular local music stars.They sang only in Amharic language and I did dance with two lady’s as the music progressed.The Year 2017 was coming to a end with a "Full Moon Night" in Addis Ababa. Everyone was dancing and it was a house full crowd of revellers. A excellent evening of dancing to vocals whose lyrics I couldn’t understand but whose rhythm was universal. Dinner was excellent crisp fried Tilipia fish with bread costing 155 Birr.
The live music entertainment closed at approximately 2100 hrs and was
surprized that entertainment in Addis Ababa wound up this early in the night.
In Addis Ababa office’s start work at 0830 hrs with a lunch break from 1230 to
1330 hr and finally closing at 1730 hrs. Tomorrow was a normal working day for
the average office goer as Ethiopian New year ( Enkutatash in Amharic) will be celebrated on Tuesday 11 September according to the Julian Calender and not on Monday 1 January 2018 as officially celebrated universally by the Gregorian calender.Boarded a shared taxi to Dembel Square and from Dembel Square
walked the short distance in the direction of Bole road to “Cola Cola Sport Bar”, the hippest bar/restaurant in the vicinity. Although it was New Year's eve this plushest restaurant in the vicinity wore a deserted look. Purchased a Ice-cream and walked back home to my hotel room End of another excellent stay in Addis Ababa on the last day of the Gregorian calender.
 |
| St Mary's Orthodox Church Sunday Mass in progress. |
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| Entrance to "Maryam Church(St Mary's)" on Mt Entoto |
On the road opposite the Café was “St Mary’s Orthodox Church” where a Sunday mass was in progress. The priests sermon could be heard over the loudspeaker across the road.This is the custom in all Orthodox Ethiopian churches in Addis Ababa.A lot of similarities to Islam ? On emerging from the plush café spotted a shared taxi van and luckily it was heading to the base locality of Mt Entoto. Suddenly one of the co passengers in the taxi spoke to me in a few words of the Hindi language which surprized me .He happened to be a local Ethiopian employed in the Gulf Country’s and whose co -workers were mostly Indians from the State of Kerala. A lot of teachers in Ethiopia are also of Indian origin .Its a small World if you are Indian , a country having the second largest population in the World..
 |
| Outside Maryam Church on Mt Entoto |
On arriving at the last drop off point at Entoto base boarded another shared taxi van and began the long uphill curved drive towards Mt Entoto situated at a height of 3,200 meters above sea level and the tallest mountain overlooking the city of Addis Ababa.These mini shared taxi vans are packed to capacity with 20 to 21 passengers being the total complement at maximum capacity. The fare to Mt Entoto was 10 Birr and the mountain side was covered with tall Eucalyptus trees as our van meandered its way through the narrow mountain curves. At 0900 hrs reached the main gate of Maryam Church(St Mary's Church) situated on the peak of Mt Entoto.The normal Ethiopian Orthodox Church mass was in progress with the head priest preaching the sermon over a loudspeaker that could be heard outside the church .
 |
| View of Maryam Church on Mt Entoto |
The Church compound was crowded with worshippers covered in white clothing as is customary in all Orthodox Ethiopian church ceremonies. The view of Addis Ababa was not clear due to the early morning winter haze but the weather in bright sunshine was akin to being in a open air controlled air condition environment.The 4 star resort "Yaya Athletics Village" where the famed Ethiopian runners train is based on Entoto Mountain. Haile.Gebrselassie trained in this resort . I was slowly unravelling the mystery of the “Ethiopian Long distance Runners”. After the mass walked around the Church premises also being blessed by a Ethiopian Coptic priest. A first in my lifetime of visits to the Ethiopian and Russian Coptic churches of Christianity. Later visited the Church museum on a entrance fee of 200 Birr which also allows access to the former King’s palace situated at the foot of Maryam Church(St Mary's Church).
 |
| Inside Mt Entoto Palace of Menelik II |
The Church museum exhibit literature was mostly in Amharic and being a Christian I could understand the significance of most of the exhibits otherwise a local guide is advisable, From the church museum it was a short walk across the church premises onto the Palace grounds.Emperor Menelik II built this palace on Mt Entoto and made Entoto the Capital of Ethiopia in 1881.It was the first time I was viewing a ancient Palace in Africa and was surprised on seeing the simplicity of the two small buildings which were the palaces of Emperor Menelik II and his wife empress Taitu. This was during a era when the Emperor ruled most of North Central Africa and hence the simplicity and down to earth palace surprised my anticipation of viewing some enormous palace and palace grounds.
 |
| Entoto Palace and Palace Grounds |
As it was a Sunday the palace and Palace grounds were filled with young Ethiopian youth visiting the palace after church services. I just didn’t want to leave the Palace grounds as the weather was one of the finest I personally experienced in years. Remember I am a frequent World jet-setter beside's having also travelled across entire India and having recently visited Europe in June/July 2017.Ethiopian long distance runners practice in these suburban mountain hills of Ethiopia in rarefied air at high altitudes akin to their Kenyan counterparts in the Rift valley of Kenya and this is one of their strongest assets in being successful on the World stage of distance running.Reluctantly bid adieu to the Palace grounds and Mt Entoto finally standing in queue to board the shared taxi back to Mt Entoto base .
 |
| Locals queuing for water at Mt Entoto village. |
Observed a long line of Jerry cans and on closer inspection realized it was a queue for collecting fresh water from a permanent tank erected on the road.I thanked God for my luxury of having tap water on 24 hrs call at my home in the city of Mumbai which also has similar water shortage problems in certain parts of the city.Most people remember Ethiopia through terrible starvation photographs of the 1983-85 famine leading to over 4,00,000 deaths which resulted in the first universal musical concert called"Live Aid" used to raise funds for the Ethiopian famine.
 |
| "Selfie" at Entoto Palace. |
The"LIVEAID" concert held on 13 July 1985 was organized by Bob.Geldof and Midge.Ure with simultaneous musical concerts at Wembley Stadium in London and John.F.Kennedy stadium in Philadelphia and the both linked by satellite for a World wide audience.A First of its kind in music history with 1.9 billion people across 150 country's watching this live broadcast.This long queue of people with Jerry Cans waiting their turn to fill water on Mt Entoto will forever be etched in my memory.Travel educates. Finally boarded the shared taxi and made our way downhill from Entoto mountain. A few young local students requested me to purchase their tickets to which I obliged. Had to change 2 different shared taxi’s before finally reaching the landmark St Stephens church crossroads. Walked across towards Meskel Square and boarded the shared taxi to Bole Airport .
 |
| View of Addis Ababa from Mt Entoto. |
On reaching Bole Airport stop walked the short distance across to Cameroon avenue.The year ending Lunch of 2017 was at the plush 5 star style “Yod Abyssinia cultural restaurant”. Lunch was barbequed lamb served on a sizzling coal burner in a similar manner as was yesterday’s barbeque beef at the Christmas carnival fair. Although half raw it was more well prepared than yesterday's beef that resembled tough rubber to my taste buds. Afterthe excellent lunch walked the short distance across Cameroon avenue to Bole Airport road and boarded the shared taxi back home to Dembel Square. A few tourist guests were sitting in the hotel compound drinking Kava and chewing some green leafy shrubs. On inquiry was told it was the famous “Chat Shrub” of Ethiopia that is chewed by locals and is similar to a intoxicant.
 |
| Ethiopian style cuisine at "Yod Abbysinia". |
Took a few shrubs from a guest who happened to be from Mombasa and residing at Kilindini road which brought back distant memories of my childhood in Mombasa. The “Chat” was identical to chewing “Indian Pan” and did not have any intoxication effect on my mental psyche unlike liquor."Chat" was not my cup of intoxicant for a "Ethiopian High". Relaxed in my plush hotel room watching “C.N.N” rounding the years news. Had traced Al Jazeera ,BBC,CNN and a English sports channel. Later in the evening at 1815 hrs walked downhill to Meskel Square and entered the “Addis Ababa exhibition centre” for the days Christmas festival music programme. The music programme started at approximately 1845 hrs with the opening act being a young lady singer akin to yesterday’s programme. The lady singer was then followed by a male singer and all of them were popular local music stars.They sang only in Amharic language and I did dance with two lady’s as the music progressed.The Year 2017 was coming to a end with a "Full Moon Night" in Addis Ababa. Everyone was dancing and it was a house full crowd of revellers. A excellent evening of dancing to vocals whose lyrics I couldn’t understand but whose rhythm was universal. Dinner was excellent crisp fried Tilipia fish with bread costing 155 Birr.
 |
| End of year Live rock concert under a Full Moon night. |
 |
| New Year 2018 in 2 Country;'s :- On the Ethiopian Airlines plane(ET 0332) flying from Addis Ababa to Entebbe. |
Monday( NEW YEAR 1/1/2018) Departure Addis Ababa and arrival in Entebbe :- New years night was one of my worst
insomniac nights and finally at 0600 hrs hired a taxi and bid adieu to “Selam
Pension” hotel with a “Tom & Jerry” cartoon playing on the T.v.
Reached Bole International airport in a matter of 15 minutes with the taxi fare being 200 Birr.It was a long walk from the taxi stand to Terminal 2 Departure lounge and the security check was irritating.After the normal ticket check-in it was another nightmare of baggage and physical checking after passing through immigration. Never in my lifetime of hectic Jet travel have I faced a double security check for the same flight.The Flight was punctual on time and as a passenger was absent in the 3 way sitting aisle of my row it was a comfortable short journey with excellent meals and drinks.My Co-passenger was a White British businessman on a safari drive in Africa.He and his colleague would be driving around Uganda and he had pre-booked the expensive "Gorilla Trek" tour in Uganda with the permit being U.S $ 600 only. Landed in Entebbe at 1230 hrs with a view of beautiful Lake Victoria as we landed on terra firma.After the Visa formalities changed Dollars into Ugandan shillings @ 1$U.S = 3695 USh and headed to the tourist information counter to inquire about transport to ”Gorilla African Guest House ”.
Entebbe town lies on the peninsular of Lake Victoria, the largest lake in Africa and is 37 Kms southwest of Kampala city, the Capital of Uganda.Uganda gets its name from the Buganda Kingdom which encompasses a large part of Southern Uganda including the capital Kampala.It was the seat of the Government of the protectorate of Uganda before Independence from Britain on 9 October 1962.The"State House" in the centre of Entebbe town built on 57 hectare piece of land on the two hills of Nsamizi and Newambwa is the official residence and office of the President of Uganda .Entebbe in the local Luganda language means"Seat" and is the home of the"Uganda Virus research Institute" that with other International health organizations does research on infectious diseases most notably "H.I.V", "Tuberculosis","Malaria" and "Helmith".
.Entebbe Airport first hit the International headlines on Thursday 7 February 1952 when a young Princess Elizabeth on a safari at the World famous "Tree Tops" hotel in Kenya flew from this airport to London via El Adem in Libya on being proclaimed Queen of England on the death of her father King George VI. English language inherited from the British colonial rule is the chief first language with Swahili and Luganda being the second common languages within Uganda. A taxi driver named Jackson agreed to drive me to the resort on a charge of 8 U.S $ and on the way he showed me the Old Entebbe airport openly visible from the Entebbe-Kampala highway. .This airport now used by the Ugandan army as a United Nations air base became a household name on Sunday 4 July 1976 after the unique successful Israeli Commando raid named "Operation Entebbe or Operation Thunderbolt"on the terrorists holding Israeli plane passengers hostage on "Air France plane 139" at Entebbe airport .Osama Bin Laden's closely guarded secret assasination by the elite American Seals in Abbotabad in Pakistan would rank on par with the "Raid on Entebbe" saga.
From the old airport road we passed along the heavily guarded "State House" where photography is strictly prohibited.Finally arrived at the "Gorilla African guest house" situated at 14,Jinja road which resembled a miniature national park with lush green tree’s and decorative jungle natural art. The Manager Mr Joshua.Lenin allotted me a private room in "Cottage No 13”.Superstitious about "N0 13 " ? Its alway's been a lucky number for me as has been for a few others ! A excellent cosy room with self-attatched hot water shower bath and a T.V. Unlike "Selam Hotel" shared toilet /bath sewage drainaige reverse flow in Addis Ababa this cosy self contained accomodation was equivalent to a 5-star jungle resort. Excellent.
Reminded me of some of the plush Jungle lodges in the national parks of India .Later in the evening while walking along the isolated red mud road towards Entebbe Town got a lift from a local and wasdropped in Entebbe Town. Entebbe Town is a clean small village town having large palatial bungalows and resorts. As usual spoke to a few local taxi driver’s and Boda Boda (Motorcycle taxi) rider’s getting a practical insight into this beautiful small town that became a household name during the Idi Amin era for one of the World’s most unbelievable military operations in peace time. Had a early dinner at “Dinner’s restaurant and takeaway” on recommendation of the taxi driver’s and was not disappointed with the local Ugandan food. After ages was paying bills in thousands with the meal costing me 10,000 Shillings .
Just strolled along the empty street with me being the only Asian among the Black Ugandan African’s. Later a few hawkers displayed their food stock on the pavements akin to my home city of Mumbai and purchased a mango costing Sh 1000.Local Uganadan hawker's don't like being photographed and honestly i didn't miss India also realizing the reason's for Indian's being at home in East Africa when it was first colonized by the British.Uganda was once home to a large Asian population akin to Mombasa my city of birth with overnight “Slum Dog Millionaire” hero Dev Patel being of Ugandan Indian descent .Entebbe brought back childhood memories of Mombasa as time and modernization stood still in this small village city of Uganda. All the "Boda Boda's" in Entebbe were of the "Bajaj Boxer" model with myself owning a"Bajaj Wind-125" model back home in Mumbai.
I was definitely in familiar surroundings with Indian brand imported motorcycles ruling the roads of Entebbe. Boarded a “Boda Boda(Motorcycle Taxi)” costing Sh 2000 on my way back home to the resort and sighted a Sikh Gurudwara on the route.Internet service in the dining hall of the resort was excellent having 4G bandwidth and on par with First World country's .Updated my blogs and got in touch with social website "Facebook" which i couldn't access in my hotel in Addis Ababa.I had read about Kenya being a pioneer in Internet networking in Africa and seems Uganda is on par with Kenya.Sipped a "Tusker beer" while blogging on my laptop in the dense forest resort of this classic guesthouse .
Tuesday(2/1/2018) Entebbe:- Got my luxurious four hours sleep in the plush cosy jungle hut of palatial "Gorilla Afriacan guest house" and at dawn officialy strolled into the palatial resort estate listening to the sounds of various birds and mooing of some cattle instead of the normal T.V entertainment.
Entebbe is a base for United Nations Peacekeeping force with the Old airport being the base and hence the occasional sounds of planes landing and taking off in the early morning hours.Breakfast was at 0745 hrs and consisted of bread, two fried eggs,pineapple, banana,butter,jam, honey etc with coffee or tea.Excellent 5 star style breakfast and free with the hotel rental.After breakfast boarded the "Boda Boda(Motorcycle taxi)" which is a adrenalin junkie ride as the village roads are bumpy and the pillion passenger doesn't wear a helmet which could be disastrous in case of a fall.As a motorcycle and cycle rider i am qualified to comment of the positive and negative aspects of motorcycle and cycle riding.At a hire cost of Sh 2000 headed to the Uganda wildlife education centre.The Ugandan Wildlife Education centre was formed in 1994 having previously functioned as a zoo.In 2015 the "U.W.E.C(Uganda Wildlife Education Centre)" received the"World Association of Zoo's and Aquaria " award from among all the zoo's in the world.
The award was for the zoo excelling in using biodiversity related educational materials supporting the United Nations Decade for biodiversity 2011 - 2020. I was one of the first entrants into the zoo and decided to do the "Behind the scenes" wildlife tour which cost U.S $ 70.Before the start of the tour i was told to sign a bond stating that the zoo was not responsible if any untoward accident occured while interacting with the wild animals.A job of a "Big Cat" handler would have suited my professional aptitude as akin to a "Horse, dog or cat whisperer" i do have control and understanding of animals.
A White Finnish family living in Uganda consisting of two men,two women and two young kids were before me in waiting for this private personalized zoo tour.Finally we were a group of 5 tourists which consisted of the two Finnish men and the two young kids along with zoo-keeper guide Mr Richard.Kaahwa and myself. Akin to a National park safari we were driven in a open mini van around the zoo stopping at enclosures on the route .We began at the Ostrich enclosure where young zoo-keeper Mr Richard.Kaahwa explained us the importance of this wildlife education centre in conserving Uganda's wildlife.
We next stopped at the "Big Cat Enclosure" where a young lion and two Cheetahs were caged.Zoo-keeper Richard showed us the method of isolating the animals from the open large yard on which they roam as in any normal zoo.Got to know the Finnish tourists of whom the younger gentleman was a International school teacher in Kampala while the elder man was his father-in-law and the young boy and girl being the children of the teacher.along with me entered the small cage.After isolating "Pian" the full grown wild cheetah he told us to enter the cage and the three of us quietly entered the small cage with the two young children left behind for security resons.
The beautiful large male Cheetah "Pian" made me less nervous than my tiny cat "Matata" back home in Mumbai.Realized the ease with which this fastest land beast could be trained by humans as house pets as well as for hunting.Remember visiting the Bhavnagar Palace hotel in Gujarat which had paintings of hunting cheetah's with their human handlers during a era when cheetah's were used for hunting by the Indian Royalty before it became extinct as a species in the sub-continent.Much later Indian Royalty itself was officially dissolved and no- kill hunting in the 21st century acomplished by means of a "Camera Lens". The Cheetah is also gradually becoming extinct in parts of Africa due to habitat destruction and conflict with farmer's for preying on livestock and hope this lithe animal does not become totally extinct from the animal World.
. From the Cheetah enclosure we visited the "White Rhino" enclosure petting the huge rhinos.These were a pair of full grown white rhino's which are extinct in the wild forests in Uganda and now only about 22 White rhino's exist in entire Uganda Hope is that this number might increase through conservation breeding.These two caged rhino's were not a breeding pair and used only for educational purposes by the zoo. Next was the feeding of a 6 month old orphaned baby elephant named"Edward" rescued from a swamp in Hamukungu village of Queen Elizabeth National park in Uganda.."Edward's" intelligent antics was humorous akin to a small human child and the two kids were thrilled feeding this small baby giant that was as tall as them..Most humorous was this tiny baby elephant rushing back to its enclosure home after eating all the treats we fed it realizing that there was nothing more to eat and hence useless entertaining us humans for free .From baby elephant "Edward" we entered a vast open savannah ground which had antelopes, giraffe's and common big horn cattle.
When the red coloured lone Ankole bull approached our open van along with antelopes and the giraffe i was shocked on seeing the horns of this bull. We fed the giraffe's from the open van while the size of the horns of the Ankole bull was just amazing and we had to be careful in avoiding the horns while feeding these animals from our open van.If the bull accidentally lifted its head while feeding on the ground below us we could get gored as its horns towered above the open guard railing of the vehicle. This breed of cattle is called "Ankole Watusi" cattle in America being named after the Watusi tribe of Africa which is actually the Tutsi tribe of Rwanda.The World record for the longest cattle horns belongs to this breed of cattle. .In my lifetime it was the first time i had seen such long horns on a bull.From the African Savannah enclosure we next entered the large aviary of the Shoebill Stork unique to Africa and now a endangered species due to habitat destruction.The bird was as tame and intelligent as a pet parrot.Next visited the enclosure of 6 year old rescued African Elephant "Charlie" whom we just observed from outside the enclosure for unlike 6 month old "Edward" he had outgrown his"Baby Elephant" childishness and was too big and powerful to be cuddled or petted.
The plan of the zoo was to release these elephants into the wild forests once they attained maturity.Don't we human's also change in character and behaviour as we evolve from childhood to adulthood.The visit to the Chimpanzee enclosure was just too good to be true.A group of Chimpanzees are resident in the enclosure with all of them being rescued animals from either the illegal pet trade or bankrupt circuses.A large water moat formed a natural enclosure while a net covered the top of this large artificial island enclosure.Chimpanzees are mortally afraid of water as ther cannot swim and sink like a piece of stone if venturing into deep water.
I didn't know this strange peculiar fact about chimpanzees and their inability to learn swimming until zoo- keeper Mr Richard.Kaahwa told us the same.Very strange for a ape that is closest to us humans in many aspects.Travel educates.As soon as we arrived the chimpanzees realized it was feeding time and rushed towards the waters edge to receive banana treats thrown into the enclosure by zoo-keeper Richard,The oldest chimpanzee Zakayo was 54 years old discovered by a White man in 1964 in Bundibogya when just a year old .At the age of 14 years his owner handed him over to the Conservation authorities as chimpanzees are difficult to handle as pet's when mature. In his young hey day's "ZAKAYO" entertained his legend of human fan's smoking cigar's and expertly peeling and eating banana's and on rare occasions excepting liquor from some zoo visitor's ."Zakayo" is the main tourist attraction of the "U.W.E.C" , a World-wide poster celibrity among the rare indigenious zoo inmates.
I will never ever forget the antics and sign language of these group of chimpanzees .All these chimpanzees have been sterilized to prevent them from reproducing as the park only maintains them for education purposes.There was no need for me to visit Ngamba island to see the chimpanzees as this group made me understand their intelligence and behaviour , The World's most famous celibrity chimpanzee "Bubbles" would have loved this esteemed gang of fellow chimpanzees living in the island moat enclosure of "U.W.E.C" zoo.Our last stop was at the turtle/tortoise enclosure and we were explained the difference between the two.After the personalized guided tour we thanked guide Richard.Kaahwa and headed our separate ways with me doing a second round of tour of the different animal and bird enclosures.
For the first time got to view Lake Victoria from the Wildlife education centre grounds as the lake forms one side of a natural boundary of the park.Came across the landmark "Elder's Tree" whose botanical name is "Pseudospondias Microcapa" and which at 100 + year is one of the oldest trees in the conservation cetre estate.This tree has numerous medicinal properties for treating various diseases. The lake's beach was similar to sea sand and akin to the sea horizon land cannot be sighted in the horizon of lake Victoria.Was filled with awe looking into a endless horizon of the largest lake in Africa.Tasted the water which was as sweet as tap water.From the shore of the lake walked back to the exit of the zoological wildlife centre and hired a "Boda Boda" for the short uphill distance along Hillside road to Entebbe town for lunch.Lunch wasa pint of "Tusker beer" along with Ugandan cuisine named "Matooke" at "Dinners Bar and Takeaway".
The meal consisted of a few different vegetables along with a bowl of beef meat.After lunch walked down Hillside road and after a few inquiries found my way to the "National Botanical Gardens" of Uganda. Entrance fee to the garden was Sh 10,000 and the services of a guide costed me another Sh 10,000.This Botanical gardens was laid out in 1898 by Mr A.Whyte, the first curator of this garden complex. The Garden complex is divided into various zones according to its vegetation and hence the importance of a local guide.Guide Mr Richard.Musoke was excellent and during our long walk around the garden got to sight some excellent rare birds.Among birds sighted were the Hadada Ibis, Hornbills,Great blue tracow,Fish eagle and pied king fishers.Spotted two groups of Colobus monkeys which had escaped from a zoo and now residents in the botanical garden.Lake Victoria forms one of the natural boundary's of the Botanical garden and the Botanical garden beach had a few swimmers swimming as well as partying on the clean white sand beach.
Saw the largest anthill in my life in the Botanical park and our last visit was to the equatorial forest which was a locale in the1940's for a film shooting of one of the movies of the "Tarzan Film franchisee". After the "Tarzan Equatorial Forest" walk visit it was the end of my guided tour and thanking guide Musoke walked towards two white tourists feeding a group of "Vervet Monkeys".They were Russian tourists and the Vervet monkeys were enjoying free peanuts which they took from the hand of the tourists.They gave me some peanuts to feed the monkeys and i had a excellent time photographing these mischievious and harmlass creatures.After feeding the monkeys walked back to the exit and hired a "Boda Boda" to take me back to the hotel.Enroute suddenly spotted two Maribou Storks at a roadside garbage dump and told the Boda Boda driver to stop the motorcycle.Couldn't believe my luck in seeing natural wildlife in the heart of Entebbe city akin to stray dogs or cats at a garbage dump.As a professional speculative gambler should say that today's day was paydirt luck in sighting species that are normally seen in a open wildlife national parks. Arrived at the guesthouse and relaxed through blogging with the "Orange" Internet server system being excellent akin to Reliance Gio of India .
Wednesday (3/1/2018) Entebbe :- Had a decent four hours night sleep with the Entebbe mosquito's buzzing around my ears and getting rid of them by switching on the fan.
.Best remedy to keep mosquito's away is by sleeping under a fan .My excellent cottage hut had a T.V with a control from the managers office that screens a single programme in English language.Woke up to National Geographic and one of the most pleasant morning weather in the World.No wonder British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill referred to their then colony Uganda as the "Pearl Of Africa".Breakfast was at 0730 hrs in the "Mango bar and restaurant" of the resort.Guesthouse Manager Mr Joshua guided me for the journey to Kayebwe to set foot on the "EQUATER LINE".After breakfast walked out of the palatial guest-house estate and downhill to Lugonjo junction.
At 0830 hrs boarded a shared taxi to Kampala costing Sh 3000 and although it is only 41 Kms from Entebbe reached Kampala at 1000 hrs due to heavy traffic logging on the approach road towards Kampala.The crowded streets of Kampala resembled parts of congested Mumbai except for a different race of people.At Kampala bus stop boarded a "Boda Boda" and straight away headed to Trinity Bus terminal.Booked my bus ticket to Kigali for Friday(5/1/2018) costing Sh 40,000 only.From the booking office again boarded a "Boda Boda" and headed to Kisenyi bus terminal in Kampala to board the bus or shared taxi to Kayabwe.
A local guided me to the best looking mini bus in the large taxi cum bus stand and at 1030 hrs i was happy to be travelling in the newest vehicle during my entire "Safari Travel"that began in Addis Ababa . The conducter issued me a ticket costing Sh 15,000 and after that my unbelievable game of patience began in the bus.The bus just stood rooted in the bus terminal awaiting passengers and for the first time in my life had to wait for three hours in the bus with the bus finally leaving for Kayabwe at 1345 hrs absolutely packed to capacity.At sea when our ship crosses the Equater we sailors have a tradition of celebrating the "EQUATER CROSSING" .
Crew member's irrespective of rank/status crossing the Equater for the first time are lined on deck with the entire ship's crew as a audience except those on ship operational duty. These first time Equater crossing candidates have to do hilarious antics or are bathed in engine oil/grease or are made to taste weird food or liquids as ordered by a veteran seniour crew member playing the role of the Sea God "Neptune".At the end of the ceremony they are given a "Ship Equater Crossing Certificate" to avoid repeatations of this ceremony on future voyages across the Equater. I got the feeling the bus staff was playing the "Equater Crossing" land tradition ceremony on me by making me wait in the bus to enjoy the definition of the word idleness.To corrupt a John.Lennon verse,quote, "I was in the stationary bus "ROSA" at Kisenyi bus terminus for 3 hours just watching Ugandan hawkers and people pass me by as i clicked photographs ".Travel educates.
Always learn and understand the local culture of the city or Country before travelling otherwise what happened to me on this bus could happen to one and every tourist unaccustomed to Ugandan method of public transport.Kayabwe is at a distance of 80 Kms from Kampala on the Kampala- Masaka highway The highway to Masaka was a route that takes the tourist through the Ugandan Countryside with its lush green vegetation and road side hawkers at every major stop.Finally at 1530 hrs reached the equater point of Kyabwe.Strangely i was expecting the " Equater Photo Shoot Poin to be crowded with tourists for that unique "Bragger's Rights" photo for social websites and ancestors but strangely found myself the only single V.I.P tourist !
The penance of the long 3 hour wait in the bus had paid indirect dividends and i could get myself photographed at leisure,There was no queue as is normal in most unique tourist spots around the World and i have been to a few of them including the "Cape of Good Hope" in South Africa.A saleswoman of a handicraft shop rented me a Ugandan Football T- shirt and took my photographs on the "Equater Line" indicator post..Later i crossed the road and had a signature Ugandan snack named "Rolex" at the landmark "Equater Line Restaurant" built on the equater line that passes through it. My geography studies was coming to reality.
Finally decided to stop behaving like a child in a toy shop and make the long travel safari back home to Entebbe.Boarded a shared taxi and the journey back to Kampala was torturous to say the least.I was experiencing the lifestyle of the average Ugandan and it is tough.Came across numerous hawkers selling eatables at every stop of the van.Finally at 1830 hrs we reached Kampala bus terminus and to my goodluck boarded a shared taxi that was on the verge of beginning the journey to Entebbe.The Traffic on the Kampala -Entebbe highway crawled and it took us two hours to cover the 41 kms journey to Entebbe town.The shared taxi dropped me on Hill lane and after a short walk up the lane reached the familiar surroundings of Entebbe Old Town.The Street lights in Entebbe are dim akin to a village and the way back to Gorilla guesthouse on the signature "Boda Boda" was a authentic African safari in almost pitch darkness.Finally at 2045 hrs i was back home in one piece safe and sound in classic "Gorilla African guesthouse".
Thursday(4/1/2018) Entebbe :- My routine in Gorilla guest house was to wake up officially at 0600 hrs and get to the "Mango bar" before breakfast to update my blogs and check my personal mail.
Today the WiFi was non operational as the rental charges were not updated by manager Joshua.After a sumptuous breakfast the WiFi was reactivated after a money transfer through smart phone which made me realize that Uganda was leaps and bounds on par with First World country's in terms of Smartphone literacy and Internet bandwidth.At 0900 hrs left the guesthouse and walked downhill to the familiar Lugonjo junction.Took a "Boda Boda" to Aero Beach with the hire charges being the standard Sh 2000.On arriving at the gates just walked in and was stopped by the guard who told me to pay the entrance fee of Sh 5000.
I was the lone tourist and felt i had entered a scrapyard of planes with a large British airways plane dominating the Plane Scrapyard and a host of other war planes scattered on the ground of the beach resort. At one end of the large beach were the life size statues of World leader's akin to Madame Tussaud's .Prominent among the statues were those of Ugandan President Yoweri.Museveni and his wife Janet.Musoveni welcoming Queen Elizabeth II during the "CHOGM 2007" summit held in Uganda.Statues of Mahatma.Gandhi, Nelson.Mandela and former Tanzanian President Julius.Nyerere were all kept in a single parallel order along the beach.On entering the desolate beach felt like Robinson Crusoe shipwrecked on a desolate plane scrapyard island.Adjutant storks were as common as crows on the trees and for the first time in my life saw wild Maribou Stocks in such large numbers.
Beside's Maribou Storks there were wild ducks, kingfishers, cormorants, terns and numerous other aquatic bird species which i couldn't identify.A aquatic bird watchers paradise.Undressed and kept my belongings on a bench on the sandy beach and did my trademark "Bonny (Hindi Slang for First) DIVE" into the crystal clear water of Lake Victoria.The Swimming area had been cordoned off with a floating boundary marker and i just lazed in the cool water of Africa's largest lake and the second largest lake in the World after Lake Superior in North America..Statistics quote that approximately 5000 people drown in Lake Victoria every year which surprised me on seeing the calm serene waters of the lake which resembled well water.The drowning cases are mainly due to poor seamanship, unstable boats a lack of safety equipment and most importantly bad weather.In Lake Victoria the weather changes abruptly and the calm water i was now seeing could in a few hours change into a mini tsunami of large waves overturning small fishing boats in this vast 68,800 SqKm of water mass bordering the Country's of Kenya,Uganda and Tanzania..There are a few other private beaches along the same coast line of Aero beach seperated by partition boundary barricades along the sand.
The Oldest beach in this vicinity is"Lido Beach". A lone worker was cleaning the beach and i requested him to click some photo's to which he obliged.Although i swim 2 Kms daily in the swimming pool in Mumbai its once in a lifetime opportunity to have a dip in Lake Victoria.A pair of dogs were attracted towards me with one of them becoming my best friend and even swimming into the water to be with me.Bizarre and true.Later after satisfying my joy of swimming in Lake Victoria came out of the water and got myself dressed.Noticed that most of the palatial large armchairs in the restaurant of this beach resort were made of long cattle horns of the Akole breed of Long horn cattle akin to the bull i saw at the "U.W.E.C" zoo.
As i was relaxing on one of the beach lounge chairs a young gentleman approached me introducing himself as Mr Monday.John.Asiimwe , the manager of Aero Beach resort.Had a talk with him and he told me that the junkyard planes were the actual original war planes destroyed by the Israeli Commando force during the legendary Sunday July 4 , 1976 raid on Entebbe known as"Operation Entebbe or Operation Thunderbolt" that overnight made this small airport town a household name across the World. A Large passenger plane that seemed intact among the damaged junk war planes was the actual authentic hijacked "Air France 139 " hostage plane.This former "Air france 139" plane was placed between two small bungalow office buildings
I was surrounded in the midst of the "Raid on Entebbe" open air history museum.He later took me to meet his boss whom i thought would be the average Ugandan businessman.On entering the first floor of one of the Bungalow offices situated on the starboard side of the historic "Air France 139" plane was greeted by two tall Black men of whom one was sitting at the end of a long conference table while the other whom i presumed to be his deputy was seated next to him.A prominent photo of Ugandan President Yoweri.Museveni hung high above on the wall end of the long table on which the boss was seated.The entire office hall wall had framed photographs of various African Political leaders with large chairs designed from Ankole cattle horns.The large elderly over 6 feet tall man who was the boss asked me if my family was persecuted by Idi.Amin to which i replied in the negative stating that i was born in Kenya decades ago.Idi .Amin Dada was President of Uganda from 1971 to 1979 after disposing sitting President Milton.Obote in a military coup.During his regime human rights groups and International observers have estimated that approximately 1,00,000 to 5,00,000 people were killed as a direct or indirect result of his brutal Dictatorial rule.As a gambler/Investor by profession i am accustomed to daily financial shocks but was definitely shocked to realize that the giant gentleman seated like a king on a large chair decorated with traditional Ankole cattle horns was one of the business and political icons of modern Uganda.
My attire was the common signature informal swim wear Bermuda shorts and T-shirt with rubber sandals which i normally wear regularly for my daily commuting to the swimming pool in Mumbai and not formal office wear clothing .Honestly i was embarrassed with my casual attire but then even in my wildest dreams did not imagine meeting a personality of the stature of Mzee Cornelius.Lorika .Kodet.Mzee is a Swahili word of respect which when translated in English means "Elder".Late President Jomo.Kenyatta of Kenya whom i distinctly remember welcoming waving a paper Kenya flag on the main street of Mombasa along with my "Sacred Heart High School" classmates of the 1960's was alway's referred to as Mzee Jomo.Kenyatta. Childhood nostalgia in rediscovering my African roots.Over a cup of pure Indian tea which he personally offered me Ugandan Industrialist Mzee Cornelius.L.Kodet(C.L.Kodet on visiting card ) explained to me the various photographs on the wall with him and his wife in the presence of Ugandan Royalty and President's in some of the photographs. He also explained me the importance of local Kings in Ugandan culture and politics.We discussed the unforgettable Late President Idi.Amin who revolutionized the Asian community of Uganda and seems a few of his children are very much living in Uganda.
President Idi Amin had got rid of all the various Ugandan Kings but now after his overthrow the Kings were restored to control their fiefdoms although with no actual political power.He was the chairman of "Kodet International Limited" beside's a string of other companies listed on his visiting card.He wanted Indian investors to invest in Uganda and had the utmost respect for Indians and Indian businessmen.He talked of his personal friendship with Uganda businessman Mr Jai.Mehta of the"Mehta Group" founded by pioneering Gujarati businessman Mr Nanji.Kalidas.Mehta(1887 -1969) and was literally pleading for Indians to invest in Uganda.Ugandan born Kenya rally driver Late Mr Shekhar.Mehta , a scion of the Mehta Industrialist family was the first rally driver to win the "East African Safari Rally" four times in a row in his trademark Datsun car.Remember standing in a lage crowd outside Brabourne stadium to get a glimpse of Mr Shekhar.Mehta and his Datsun car during his visit to the city en-route on a World safari in the1980's.My life had come to a full circle.In those day's i admired fancy car's and car driving while today its Cycling and motorcycling that's my passion .Most common Indians associate Uganda with Dictator Idi.Amin.Dada and Sugar Baron Ugandan Industrialist Mr Mayur.Madhwani who in 1974 married India's reigning film actress of her generation Mumtaz.Askari and overnight became a household name in India.In India cricketers and actors are worshipped after Gods and Godesses.
Mr Coenelius.Kodet is on first name terms with many African political leaders and told me that he would be meeting Kenyan President Mr Uhuru. Kenyatta in Nairobi and i felt i was hallucinating like "Alice in Wonderland" rather than actually being in the physical presence of a power broker and Industrialist of African politics.His assistant Pius gave me their phone numbers and i requested him for a photo shoot as its not everyday that a common tourist comes across political or Industrial luminaries of their respective Country's.After the meeting with Industrialist Mr C.L.Kodet and his secretary Mr Pius made my way out of their office into the beach area.
Decided to have lunch at Aero beach and manager Mr Monday.Assimwe got the same prepared from the resort kitchen.After a deliscious lunch of fried Tilapia fish/chips and salad bid adieu to manager Mr Monday.Asiimwe and took a taxi ride on the "Boda Boda" back to "Gorilla African Guesthouse".On the way decided to take a few photos of the open air Old Entebbe airfield of the "Raid on Entebbe" fame and while taking the photos was immediately accosted by a civil uniform security man travelling in a car behind us.Immediately like magic two armymen in uniform also arrived on the spot with their vehicle .Photography was prohibited as this was a United Nations airfield used for military puposes.Apologized to the police official and armymen and headed to our destination.This is a open airfield viewed by one and sundry from the highway and hence the ban on photography baffled my reasoning of secrecy.Relaxed for a hour at the scenic "Gorilla African Guest House" resort and later boarded a "Boda Boda" to Imperial Mall situated in downtown Entebbe on the main Kampala-Entebee Airport highway.
Visited the "Diamond Casino" that had opened last year in 2017 and was ultra modern on par with the best Casino's in the World .The casino was almost empty and consisted of only the ground floor of the large Imperial mall building complex."Sports Gambling" is legalized in Uganda and i did see a few betting shops in Kampala during my safari travel to Kayabwe.From Imperial mall walked along the highway road along the plush Portland road to Victoria Mall which is the largest mall in Entebbe.The Mall was beautifully decorated for the Christmas/New Year festive season and was palatial although without escalators.There was a"NumaxTheatre" in the mall premises as also a plush health gymnasium with a expensive membership fee.From the Mall walked back to Entebbe Town and decided to have a dinner consisting of the Nile Perch fish which is common in lake Victoria.The fisher-women hawker ladies were selling dried and fried Nile Perch fish as well as fresh and dried Tilapia on the pavement of Entebbe Town.Fresh Nile Perch was not sold by the pavement fisher-women and only sold in the main fish market of Entebbe Town.Entered "Dinners Bar and Restaurant" and requested the manager to prepare me a "Nile Perch/Rice Curry" to which he obliged ordering the same from the local fish market.The Nile Perch (Lates) is a gigantic lake fish at times weighing upto 160 Kgs with a record catch weighing over 480 Kgs. Unbelievable but true. After a long wait for .dinner as the meal was prepared in the kitchen did finally get a taste of the excellent fresh Nile Perch/Rice washed down with a pint of Nile beer.Today i had been on a total diet of local Ugandan fish cuisine and was happy for the same.Fried Tilapia at Aero beach and now the exclusive"Nile Perch" in Entebbe Town. After dinner boarded a "Boda Boda" back to "Gorilla African guest house".
Friday(5/1/2018) Deparure Kampala :- Today was my last breakfast in classic and chic "Gorilla African Guesthouse" as i would be checking out at 1000 hrs and heading to Kampala.
The Guesthouse was totally booked to capacity on my departure with almost all the tourists being Caucausians. All from First world country's and most of them would definitely be heading for the "Gorilla Trek". .After breakfast bid Manager Joshua.Lenin goodbye and boarded a “Boda Boda” and headed to the shared taxi stand at Lugonjo bus stand.. Boarded a “Shared Taxi” at 0930 hrs and it was a crawling slow drive in peak working hours traffic towards Kampala city.On reaching Kampala passed along the large Swaminarayan Mandir Hindu temple in one of the most crowded streets of the city.If not for the Black African Ugandan population a blindfolded man would have mistaken Kampala to be a part of a Indian city with the "Bajaj Boxer (Boda Boda)" adding a touch of Indian flavour to Uganda.
Flashback of memories of the 1960's of Mombasa in Kenya.Crime rate is high in Kampala and while shooting with my camera the taxi driver advised me to keep my hand inside the car to avoid someone snatching the camera..This could happen even in my native Mumbai at a road traffic signal stop..Finally at 1130 hrs the taxi driver dropped me directly at “Trinity Bus stand” ,an end to a long arduous road travel safari from Entebbe.Deposited my luggage at “Trinity Bus Stand Luggage room” and boarded a “Boda Boda” to Kasubi Tombs with the hire charges being Sh 3000.The Kasubi Tombs are situated on Kasubi hill and is the site of the burial of four Kabakas(Kings of Buganda) and other members of the Buganda family..Entrance to the tombs was Sh 10000 and I was the lone visitor besides a family from Karachi.
The guide gave us a brief explanation and as the main Kings tombs were closed we couldn’t visit the same.The Kasubi tomb's became a UNESCO World heritage site in December 2001.It has been described as one of the most remarkable buildings using purely Vegetal materials for construction in the entire region of Sub-Saharan Africa.In March 2010 some of the buildings were completely destroyed in a fire and the same is being rebuilt and being funded by the Government of Japan. From the Kasubi tombs took a Boda Boda to the Uganda Museum...Entrance to the museum was 15000 shillings .The Uganda museum was founded in 1908 and is the oldest museum in East Africa..
The museum was initially started in a Sikh temple on Old Kampala hill and later moved to Makerere University college in 1941. In 1954 it shifted to its present permanant location on Kitante hill from Makerere College .In the museum a large section was about the Polish migration to East Africa during the 1940’s.Playable indigenious Ugandan music instruments were on display as also hunting equipment and archaelogical exhibits. There was a temporary exhibition in a section of the museum on milk production titled "Drink deeply milk exhibition" that was being showcased between 22nd September 2017 to March 2018. Various posters and video shows were on display about milk production in Uganda in comparison with milk production in Switzerland.The exhibition displayed the history of milk,milking practices,farming practices and global issues relating to milk production.Saw a video in which they showed the traditional tribal practice of extracting a little blood from the cattle and churning the same with fresh milk for a health drink.Had a cup of milk costing Sh1000 in the Ankole tribal hut exhibit set up in the museum with a demonstration by Ms Jovia.Busingye on the preservation of milk and the method of converting milk into butter.
From the museum boarded a shared taxi to the city centre costing Sh 1000.Is Kampala going to overtake my home city of Mumbai in population statistics ? The main city centre was absolutely crowded and the prediction is that African city's will be having the largest population a few decades down the road.Walked uphill from the market square in search of a restaurant.finally discovering "Impression Restaurant" serving Ugandan cuisine.Lunch at 1500 hrs was "Offal/Rice Samosa" costing Sh 8000 which was more vegetarian than non vegetarian dish.Raw banana's are skinned and served in the main menu of a typical Ugandan Non vegetarian dish.
Travel educates and as Dad had told me decades ago seems the average African has more of a vegetarian meal than a non vegetarian meal.Ugandan cuisine is sweet akin to Western Cuisine unlike Ethiopian cuisine which is pungent as the average Ethiopians love eating green chilli peppers along with their meals.After my late lunch stepped out of the restaurant into the busy road and entered "Green Africa restaurant and bar" for a pint of beer.The numerous betting shops that i came across during my short walk from the taxi stand to the restaurant reminded me of bookie shops in London.
Sports betting is legalized in Uganda and after my pint of beer entered a "Bookie shop" and was surprised to see bets being accepted through the Internet besides normal across the table placement bets.Was i daydreaming ? Could this actually be Uganda and not some part of London ? Bets were also being accepted on the Indian football league but didnt come across any cricket betting odds.Strolled around crowded downtown Kampala Boulevard with its broad streets and palatial office buildings enquiring of direction to "Independence Monument" .Finally found the monument located near the traffic circle bordering the landmark "Standard Chartered building " and "Grand Imperial Hotel". Visited the "Golden Tripod Casino" located in the same building of the "Grand Imperial Hotel". The casino was doing good business unlike the Casino in Entebbe which had negligible footfalls during my visit.From the Casino entered the 3 star "Grand Imperial Hotel" and inquired the rentals which were U.S $ 100/night, a far figure from the budget hostels that i always live in during my travels.
On exiting the hotel suddenly heard police sirens with a armed escort of military vehicles making the turn around the traffic square of National monument.On Enquiry was told that the President's wife Janet Myseveni had returned from Entebbe "State House" to Kampala with her normal personal escort.After visiting a few more "Betting Shops" had a pint of Guiness at "Green Africa restaurant and bar" which was getting ready for the week-end Friday night partying.I would have mistaken this part of Kampala to be Soho of London if not for the fact that i was the only Asian in a sea of Black African Ugandans..Dinner was "Chicken/Basmati rice" at "Impression restaurant" after which i boarded a "Boda Boda" back to Trinity bus terminus.The bus terminus was packed to capacity and my decision to book my ticket in advance was a wise decision otherwise i could have faced severe transport difficulties reaching Kigali.The approximate travel distance between Kampala and Kigali is 514 Kms with a average journey time of 9 hrs. Met two young men who were Rwandan Tutsi's working in Uganda .The Tutsi's are one of the tallest tribes in Africa .The tall six feet four inch Mr Katale Abdul and his accomplice Mr Gihane. Ntwarane Confident struck a chord with me and thankfully the bus was punctual in departure at 2100hrs.
Saturday(6/1/2018) Kigali :- A good journey on seat N0 4 just behind the driver with Rwandan Mr Kayitale.Abdul briefing me on Rwandan culture and the excellent loud music played throughout the night inside the bus.
The music prevents the driver from dosing.He also advised me not to ask anyone in Rwanda if they were Tutsi or Hutu as they all liked to be referred to as Rwandan's rather than by ethnic tribal identities.The "1994 Rwandan Genocide" had totally transformed the country. A excellent journey.Had a short stop mid-way for a toilet visit and finally reached the Uganda-Rwanda border town of Katuna also spelled Gatuna in the Kinyarwada language of Rwanda .Had to alight the bus with me being the lone foreigner let alone Asian foreigner in the crowd of Black African's.Had to first get my passport stamped at the Ugandan border post and from there it was a short walk to the Rwandan border check post.
Thanks to Mr Kayitale Abdul that i was guided to the right queue for visa and immigration check as only a few of the bus commuters spoke the English language with French being the second language of Rwanda.It was only since 1st January 2018 that Rwanda had started granting Visa's on arrival to visitors of all nationalities and i was definitely one of the "Bonny Indian Tourists(Bonny is Hindi slang for First)" to get a land border visa on arrival in Rwanda. Most or almost all foreign tourists enter Rwanda by air as i guaged from the fact that i was the only tourist among the entire crowd of Visa applicants at the Rwandan Katuna border.After the normal questioning by the "Immigration Officer" i was told to pay the Visa fee of U.S $ 30 at another counter a short distance away which again confused me but was finally successful after much inquiry.There were a few other International buses in queue at the "Uganda-Rwanda Border Checkpost" and i was terrified of the bus leaving without me as i walked helter-skelter getting my visa .
Finally got my passport stamped and next after that had to get my baggage checked by the Customs authorities as did all the other passengers.After about a hour since arrival at the border check post our bus finally took off to Kigale reaching Nyabugogo Bus terminus in Kigali at 0600 hrs.Rwandan time is one hour behind Uganda and Ehtiopia time and hence the clocks retarded by an hour.First and foremost changed some U.S dollars to local Rwandan Francs @ US $ 1 = 859 RWF. My actual search troubles began at the Nyabugogo bus terminus as finding the address to Mijo hostel situated in Kimihurura district of Kigali was a puzzle to the local shared taxi drivers.Kigali became the capital of Rwanda in 1962 and lies in the centre of the Country .It is a city built on small hills ,ridges and valleys with my destination being Kimihurura locality.. Finally with great difficulty boarded a local bus heading to Remera area of Kigali Town and it was the best bus i had boarded to date on my African safari travel across Ethiopia, Uganda and now Kigali.
Payment was only through "Smart Cards" and thankfully the driver/conductor charged me 200 Francs in cash while deducting the same from a passenger's smart card and paying him the same in cash.The Roads of Kigali were clean and broad on par or better than First world Country motor roads.On inquiry with a passenger was told to alight at the next stop along with him and he then called a few motorcycle taxi's of which one of them seemed to know the location of "Mijo Hostel".Finally on a payment of 500 Francs he drove me towards my destination.One major difference of the motorcycle taxi's of Rwanda in comparison to Uganda was the fact that the pillion passenger has to wear a safety helmet.
We finally reached "Papyrus" hotel which is a landmark in that area and luckily met a young white lady tourist near "Papyrus" hotel who guided me to "Mijo Hostel" on KG 672 Street. The palatial Bungalow hostel issituated a little downhill from "Papyrus" hotel on the ridge of the hill in Kimihurura area of Kigali.Kimihurura is the geographical centre of Kigali city.After a refreshing cold water bath got dressed and took a ride on a "Motorcycle Taxi" costing 500 Francs to "Hotel Des Mille Collines" situated in the Kiyovu area of Kigali. I would have loved hiring a motorcycle and cruising the roads of Kigali except for the fact that Rwanda has "Left Hand Drive" to which i am not accustomed to cycling let alone driving. The Hollywood film "Hotel Rwanda" was based on the genocide in which this particular hotel played a vital role in saving refugees.Entered the hotel which was beautifully decorated for the " Christmas/New Year" festive season.
The lowest room rate was U.S $130 and definitely a 5 star graded hotel as it had a beautiful small swimming pool.From the hotel walked across a uphill road in search of a eatery and came across a small store run by a Indian family .Purchased a chocolate and the lady a Memon Muslim told me that there were about 1500 Indian families in Kigali which has the lowest crime rate among the major African city's.A chocolate wouldn't satisfy my vorascious appetite and strolling further down the road came across "Arona " restaurant with a grocery mini supermarket named "Sharma Supermarket" situated in the opposite building.I was reliving a time capsule of my childhood of the 1960's in Mombasa where Indians and Indian stores were a common sight.
On entereing "Arona" restaurant the only man in the restaurant was of Asian origin having lunch .I initially didn't speak to him making my way to a table and ordering lunch along with a beer..Then i casually asked him if he was Indian to which he replied in the affirmative and hence began a talk with Electrical Engineer Mr Kiran.Kamath from Mumbai.He was a specialist employed in laying out of power lines being last employed in Nigeria.After our lunch bid adieu to Mr Kiran.Kamath and his local acquaintaince and headed into "Sharma Supermarket".
The man on the counter was definitely very Indian and after purchasing a few grocery products for dinner picked up a conversation with young Mr Jitesh.Sharma from Gujarat mistaking him to be a North Indian as Sharma is usually a North Indian surname in India.Travel educates.I marvelled at this young man's skill in mastering the local language besides being the ultimate businessman as are a majority of Gujarati's all over the World .No wonder Ugandan businessman/Politician Mr C.L.Kodet was pressurizing me to be a investor in Uganda definitely initially mistaking me for the talented Gujarati businessmen of East Africa.Starting "BETTING SHOPS" in Uganda which is my pioneering crusade in India made no economic sense in Uganda as it was a saturated business in the Country.Beside's, i am a "Punter" and not a "Bookie" in the World of Speculative trading.If at all i did business in Africa it would be as a "SPORTS PUNTER" in the legalized betting shops.
But then who would guarantee my safety if i won big time by sending the bookie's to the cleaner's as i have done in my pioneering notional money game on "Facebook" titled "Mittoo alias Mittoo the poppat".? From "Sharma Supermarket" took the long ride back to "Mijo Hostel" just in time to avoid a heavy downpour of afternoon rains. It was the monsoon season in Kigali and it was pouring cats and dogs along with thunder.Unique monsoon weather i have witnessed during the month of January in a country outside India."Mijo Hostel" has a scenic locale in Kigali situated on top of one of the numerous small hills that form Kigali city.
The View of the city and adjoining hills from palatial "Mijo Hostel" is indescribable at night.Slept early in my 6 bed dormitory which was the first time i was living in a shared accomodation during this "AFRICAN TRAVEL SAFARI" odyssey.During my World tours i have lived in a few palatial Bungalow resorts and "Mijo Hostel" is one of them which caters mostly to tourists from wealthy First World Country's.The palatial Bungalows of Industrialists or filmstars in India is no more a novelty surprise to me which is a great experience that only travel can fulfill.The most famous landmark in the vicinity of "Mijo Hostel" is "Papyrus Nightclub" where the music can be heard until 0500 hrs in the morning of a weekend Saturday/Sunday..Will definitely have to visit this Nightclub that has music blasting in the entire vicinity of palatial millionaire Bungalow resorts and private houses.Kigali really rocks in 5 Star style.
Sunday(7/1/2018) Kigali :- Today its "Christmas Day" celebrations by the Ethiopian Coptic Church in Ethiopia. Addis Ababa would be celebrating Christmas in grand style as i had witnessed the grand "Christmas Festival Carnival" celebrations in Addis Ababa to welcome Christmas day.
Today i would be visiting Akagera National park along with another hostel resident Mr Mark.Kallsen of U.S.A. Hostel manager Mr Santos had arranged a private guided tour for the both of us costing U.S $ 165/person and it would be embarrassing and a shame completing my "African Travel Safari-2018" without ever visiting a genuine National park on the continent.As a 7 year old i had visited the "Nairobi National Park" in 1967 along with my parents and this would be my second visit to a National park in the continent of Africa.During my South Africa tour in 2016 i had indulged in expensive"Extreme adventure sports" and hence did not visit a National park . Our driver cum guide Mr Bucyana.Jean.Paul arrived punctually before 0600 hrs to pick us up from the hostel and at 0600 hrs we were zooming towards Akagera National park.Akagera National park is one of Africa's oldest having been founded in 1934 but gradually disfragmanting over the decades to its present size of 1,122 Sq Km.
It is located in the North East of Rwanda along the Tanzania border and named after the Akagera(Kagera) river which is the largest tributary of Lake Victoria .This river flows through the parks eastern border feeding numerous lakes that dot this National park with the largest lake being Lake Ihema.The distance from "Mijo Hostel" in Kigali to Akagera National park is 106 Kms by road and during the two hour drive co-tourist Mark and myself got to know each other better.He was a Corporate retiree from the State of Minneapolis in U.S.A with a passion for World travel.He has been travelling around the World for the last two years having visited approximately 75 country's to date and honest to the fact that for his U.S.A income it was cheaper travelling in some parts of the Globe than living in his home in Minneapolis .
He had done the expensive"Gorilla Trek" a few years back and was thrilled from the experience of seeing these giant beasts from a close distance in their natural habitat.Now i knew the reason the World is in awe of the average American and First World Country's standard of living.Travel Educates.He was a divorced bachelor and the World his residence with occasional trips back home to Minneopolis.Got to learn a bit of U.S.A from him having myself visited a few U.S.A ports during my shipping employment.On the route we stopped at a supermarket to purchase some foodstock while Mark also encashed some money from the A.T.M. At 0810 hrs we finally reached the main visitors centre of the National Park.
Entrance fee to the park was US $ 40 and after a brief introduction of the park by a local park guide we were given permission to enter the National park.Having visited numerous National parks in India was familiar to the normal procedure of a National park safari and the method of the tour was similar to Indian safari tour drives.We would not be staying overnight and hence our entire safari drive would be in a single day.The first animals we spotted were a group of baboons and a lone wild buffalo.Thankfully the weather was excellent as i feared the rains might ruin our safari since it had rained heavily yesterday afternoon.Along the long drive through the lush green forest of Acacia amd Brachystegia woodlands spotted Impala's,water buck's and numerous different bird species .It was the fag end of the rainy season and hence dense undergrowth in certain sections of the park made wildlife spotting difficult .
Came across loads of fresh elephant dung along the jungle road but failed to spot a single elephant as they must have been cocealed in the dense forest greenery. We stopped at a lake and i got my life's first sighting of Hippopotamus in their natural environment and not a caged zoo.There were three to four giant Nile Crocodile's basking on the bank of the lake while the Hippo's swam close to them.Straight out of a National Geographic documentary coming true in real life.Along the water bank was a flock of cormorants, ducks, heron's,darter snake birds and crowned cranes to name only a few of the bird species i could identify.There is a very complex system of interlinked lakes with papyrus swamps that forms almost 1/3 rd of the park area making this park the largest wetlands in Central Africa. Guide cum driver Jean.Paul next drove us from the lake along the guided forest road track and along the route spotted Zebra's and wild boars.Where were the Carnivores ?
Large Carnivores like lions, striped jackals, hyena's and leopards were artificially introduced into the park recently and hence their population miniscule which makes sighting them difficult. Experience touring India's wildlife parks made me realize that in order to sight large carnivore's and herbivores a minimum of two days safari tours in the park at different hours of the day is the requirement.After hours of driving sighted our first giraffe and later towards the end of the tour reached Kirara plains which is the savannah grasslands of Akagera National park.This was a scene straight out of a National Geographic documentary re-enacted at Kirara plains in Akagera National Park.
There were herds of Topi,Impala's , Zebra's and wild buffaloes all grazing and living harmoniously on this flat grassland plains.Missing was a pack of lions or hyena's searching for a prey among the herbivores.The herd of wild buffaloes seated in a herd looked majestic and harmless from the guarded confines of our vehicle.We had at least seen one of the big five animals of the African continent in its natural wild habitat.There is a "Picnic Spot" at the end of the "Kirara Plains Drive" where tourists can get out of their vehicles and have a picnic lunch in the midst of pure wildlife.We didn't stop at the "Picnic Point" but drove straight towards the exit rest point for consuming our snacks.
Took a photo with a "Buffalo Skull" kept on the ground near the rest-house.Some sort of a superstitious belief among the locals.Were these two buffalo skulls exhibited at the exit resthouse of the park victims of lions or had died a natural death ?Sherlock Holmes hada mystery to solve.From the rest-house we made our exit from the park at 1330 hrs having driven around the park for approximately 5 long hours.It was the same long two hour drive back road travel to "Mijo Hostel" through a different route getting a view of the Rwandan countryside and the cultivated plantations of rice,maize and banana's.On reaching "Mijo Hostel" decided to have a late lunch and walked uphill from the hostel towards Flamingo restaurant. Further down came across "Patel Grocers" and felt absolutely at home speaking in Hindi to the owner a Gujarati Indian.Purchased a chocolate and walked the short distance back to the hostel as the food restaurant was shut and would open at 1800 hrs.
Was i in Mombasa of 1967/68 or in Kigali of 2018.Life can be totally unpredictable and mysterious.The hostel which was a former palatial private residence bungalow was bustling with hostelite activity with a very young crowd of "First World" country tourists..American Mr Mark .Kallsen and myself were the oldest among the young hostelite crowd of men and women.Later in the evening walked to "Patel Grocers" and ordered a home delivery of "Mutton Biryani" deciding to taste Indian cuisine in Rwanda.Heard the Gujarati store owner giving the meal order on the phone in Gujarati language and boy i felt i was in India in distant Rwanda ! Walked back to the palatial scenic locale of the hostel and relaxed in the ultra large dining hall fit for a celibrity millionaire and bustling with activity.Absolutely lively and plush.My dinner arrived at the hostel and paid the delivery man RFr 5000 for the "Mutton Biryani" which was expensive and relished the same with beer and light conversation with World traveller Mr Mark.Kallsen.A excellent day of safari exploration and road safari travel had come to a end.
Monday(8/1/2018) Kigali :- Had a decent nights four hours sleep and after a cold water bathe at 0530 hrs blogged away on my laptop in the kitchen of the palatial hostel.
. The Kitchen was the only location where the WiFi was effective for my laptop and smartphone.The sound of exotic birds chirping away early at dawn was a nature therapy without a doctors prescription.A tourist could just spend a week in "Mijo Hostel" and Kimihurura locality of Kigali without touring the city and go back to his or her country absolutely rejuvenated akin to attending a health clinic. Sighted numerous exotic birds with my binoculars but just couldn't identify them.The hostel was full to capacity with a couple arriving along with their young kids making this palatial bungalow seem like a big multiracial family house with the majority being Caucausian guests.At the breakfast table met two young Australian men leaving for Uganda on a 5 day Gorilla cum Chimpanzee trek costing each of them a total of US $ 2000 only.
After breakfast made inquiries with hostel manager Mr Santos Van Weslay whose Rwandan name was Murunyi for directions to the "Presidential Museum Palace" situated in Kanombe..Boarded a "Motorcycle taxi" costing RwF1200 for the 12 Kms distance to the Presidential Palace from "Mijo Hostel".It was a long pleasant ride early in the morning and at approximately 08 30 hrs reached the Presidential Palace museum gates.I seemed to be the only visitor and on entering the ticket counter office was greeted by a few beautiful Rwandan receptionists. After purchasing the museum ticket costing RwF 6000 was taken on a personal guided tour of the former Presidential Palace by a young beautiful lady Ms Mbabazi.Perinah who could be the envy of beauty contestant competitors in her pretty Rwandan traditional attire.Strangely she mistook me to be some sort of actor which gave logic to my fitness regime..The Assasination of President Juvenal.Habyarimana and Burundian President Cyprian.Ntaryamira on the evening of 6th April 1994 was the catalyst to the "RWANDAN GENOCIDE " of 1994.
This was the Presidential Palace in Which President Juvenal. Habyarimana, rhe second and longest serving President of Rwanda from 1973 until his assasination in 1994 lived along with his family with the Palce later later occupied by his successor President Pasteur.Bizimungu(1994-2000). After President Pasteur Bizimungu this palace was converted into a museum.I was first shown the residential bungalow of the chief of the armed forces which was palatial in size but ordinary in interior decoration.Next strolled into the palatial palace estate where i was shown a small empty swimming pool with a elevated cusped enclosure that was the residence of President Habyarimana's pet snake..
This "Pet snake Pool"presented by President Mobutu Sese Seko situated next to a large over 100 year old gigantic tree. housed a 300 pound python that was used to ward of evil spirits as well as psychologically frighten the President's opponents during a turbulent time in Rwandan history.This giant python mysteriously escaped from the pool after the President's plane crash in the backyard destroyed its caged enclosure setting it free.The giant python was never recaptured or seen again.. Do you believe in the occult ? I was next taken into the Presidential Palace backyard ground which is the original site of the plane crash. The remains of the "Falcon 50 " 60 seater presidential plane that was shot down killing all 12 on board the plane lies scattered on the Presidential ground.
Its too bizarre beyond the supernatural that the plane should have been shot down in the air and crash right on the backyard lawns of this once palatial palace.Has Horror best-seller writer Stephen.King ever thought of such a scene for any of his supernatural fiction thrillers ? Truth is stranger than fiction..Photography of the plane debris is banned as the "PLANE CRASH CASE" is still under judicial investigation with the actual perpetrators of the crime still to be authentically identified in a "Court of law".There were numerous beautiful Crested cranes roaming in this backyard estate .
On inquiry was told that these cranes were actually injured birds that were kept in a caged veterinary complex situated at one end of this large vacant ground to be later released into the wild on recovery of their flying prowess.From the plane debris palace ground we next made our way towards the palatial small open air swimming pool with a tennis court at the other end of the Palace complex..There was also a open air barbeque lawn and the luxury of the palace complex was definitely fit for a king or Queen.From the Presidential Palace estate we finally made our way into the actual "President House".Footwear has to be removed before entering the Palace premises.
This Presidential house was first occupied by President Juvenal.Habyarinama in 1980 and we entered the house from the rear which was the waiting room of Presidential visitors.From the "Waiting Room" we entered the main office of the President painted white in colour as were the table support legs. The president had a obsession with the colour white and it showed in the decor of the President's office.There were a few vintage dial phones on the Presidential desk which otherwise wore the look of a normal executive office boardroom.Next we entered the "Dining and Sitting room" that had a large dining table with more than ten seats to seat President Habyarinama's large family of eight children.From the dining room we walked up a staircase that leads to the first floor and into the bedroom. Guide Mbabazi.Peninah showed me the secret sensors fitted at the foot of each staircase to warn the President of any unfamiliar intruder approaching the bedroom.This secret sensor's were switched on only once the President entered his bedroom.
Beside's the Kingsize bed there is a large table in the bedroom with elephant legs that was a gift to Habyarinama from President Mobutu.On the second floor is the "T.V Room" that had a secret cabinet for storing guns and also a secret escape route to the third floor in case of a enemy intruder attack.The President could snatch a gun from the enclosed wooden cabinet and rush up the secret steps..We walked up the third floor which contains two large deer head antlers which was a gift from the Netherlands.After passing the giant deer antler heads we entered the Presidential chapel which was blessed by Pope John Paul II during his visit to Rwanda.In close proximity to the Catholic prayer chapel is the office of the President's family "WITCH DOCTOR".Catholocism by religion with parallel belief's in "Withcraft".
Not strange as most religions do have some of it's follower's also believing in occult practices .The Third floor also houses the First Lady's dressing saloon and the children's private tutorial room..This was the end of my Presidential palace tour museum and after a photo-shoot with the beautiful guide Ms Mbabazi.Peninah made my way out of the palatial museum estate into "KK 106 St" in Kanombe town.The streets of Kigali are named serially andabsolutely clean and flat without any potholes.Entered a Funerary parlour manufacturing coffins as death is inevitable either for a President or a commoner.Saw some beautiful expensively designed Christian coffins and as is the custom around the Globe the wealthy of Rwandan society do receive a grand farewell.
Walked along the narrow main road having numerous shops including legalized betting shops.India's "Airtel" sim card service provider seems to be advertised all over Kigali.Had a snack of local "Doughnut" .that is identical to the "Mahamri " of Mombasa of the 1960's. Eatables rarely change over generations once established. The cleanliness of the butcher shop's amazed me as also other normal shops.Reminded me a bit of South Africa that is on par with "First world " country's in infrastructure and cleanliness.Boarded a local bus to Remera with the bus fare being RwF 200 and got a experience of peak hour commuting by the average Rwandan.The bus was packed to capacity but in a orderly disciplined manner.Payment of bus fare was by "Smart Card" with me being a exception as a tourist.
On reaching Remera bus station spotted a large building advertising the "Fortebet" betting shop.Entered the shop which akin to its Kampala branch had " Internet Betting".Mr Ruberwa.Pacifique the betting shop employee explained me the method of placing bets and i placed my "Bonny bet (Hindi slang for First)" in the continent of Africa on the La Liga match between Malaga and Espanyol.Better late than too late. Bet RwF1000 on a Malaga win with the dividends being RwF 2610 for a Malaga win.From the betting shop it was a long walk to Remera square which had a decorated Christmas tree in the centre.Lunch was at "Avalunch Fast food and Restaurant" consisting of the normal Rwandan buffet lunch costing RwF 1500.
I have realized that Ethiopians, Ugandan's and Rwandan's are mostly vegetarian in diet with meat forming a miniscule recipe of a common average meal.The buffet lunch was totally vegetarian along with the local popular "Mutzig beer" except for either a chicken or beef piece of meat.After lunch walked over to the local fruit market and purchased a mango and some passion fruits totalling one kg with the bill amounting to RwF 500.End of my day's exploration of Kigali city and decided to take the "Motorcycle taxi" ride back to "Mijo Hostel" which cost me Rw F 400.Relaxed on the "Internet" that has excellent broadband akin to "Gorilla African guest house" in Entebbe.Later in the evening dinner was a snack of Samosas,two boiled eggs with mango/passion fruit and a pint of beer.Had a normal four hour sleep.
Tuesday(9/1/2018) Kigali :- Woke up officially at 0415 hrs and as usual began browsing and blogging on my laptop in the kitchen of the palatial "Mijo Hosel".
On checking my "Bonny Football Result" was sad to know that Espanyol beat Malaga 1-0 and hence my first "Sports Bet" on the African Continent was a loss.In the speculation game of "SPORTS BETTING" you always win some and lose some with the trick akin to "STOCK MARKET INVESTMENTS" being the hard fact that your profits should outscore your losses.WHEN WILL SPORTS BETTING BE LEGALIZED IN INDIA ? All the World's nationalities seem to be converging at "Mijo Hostel" and during breakfast conversed with Mr Paulo from Brazil, a teacher by profession who spoke fluent English.Young Black South African Mr Sifisho.Mashele , a veteran of Kimihurura's nightclub life who shared the bottom dormitory bunk bed with me was leaving today and we both became "F.B" friends.
The India V/s South Africa cricket test match was being played in South Africa and young Mr Sifisho told me the fact that India had lost the first test match this morning. A young Japanese lady student just arrived today from Osaka on a tour of East Africa bringing back fond memories of my few voyages to Japanese Ports..As for senior most traveller Mr Mark.Kallsen its the Globe that's his stage at the young age of 66 years only.My inspiration on practical travelling when age is just a chronological number. Absolutely incredible at his age although its easy for American and First World country citizen's to get entry Visa's into most Country's.I never ever felt i was "SOLO" during all my "Solo Travels" meeting numerous friend's, acquaintainces and stranger's as also at times getting out of awkward dangerous situations.
Suspence at the next turn of the travel is the fascinating aspect of "Solo Tours" compared to readymade guided package tours.After breakfast took a "Motorcycle Taxi"at a hire fare of RwF 500 to "Kigali Genocide Memorial" located 6.5 Kms away from Mijo hostel in Gisozi .Entrance to the museum is free and on entering the main gate approached the "Visitor's Centre" for guidance.A official gave me instructions and directions on visiting the museum .Visitors can chose to be guided by a "Audio visual guide" on payment of US $ 15 or otherwise just tour the museum on their own.I preferred touring on my own since as a student of history was familiar with the Rwandan Genocide facts.
This museum commemorates the 1994 genocide against mostly the minority Tutsi community of Rwandan society..The Centre opened in 2004 is managed and run by the "Aegis Trust" and the Kigali city council.On entering the main museum building was surprised on seeing quite a large crowd of visitors unlike the "Presidential Palace museum" where i was the second visitor of that day.All were Caucausian tourists with audio-headphones listening to the explanation of the museum exhibits while i walked along the exhibited photo's reading the subtitle explanation in English.This museum is very similar to the "Yad Vashem" holocaust museum in Jerusalem with video-documentary explanation of the Rwanda genocide and the reasons for the same..
On the ground floor of the museum there are seperate chambers having different exhibits of the holocaust.There is a chamber of skulls and bones of the human victims while another chamber has the clothes worn by some of the victims..The upper floor has three permenant exhibits and the first room had an exhibit of a few life size photo's of some young children with their names and a brief description of them who were mindlessly massacred during the 1994 Rwandan genocide.Young lives with great ambitions cut short by violence.Next chamber had a history on genocide across the World with myself having personally visited Auschwitz in Poland and the "Killing Fields" in Cambodia.
The last major documented genocide was the Bosnian war which was also exhibited with reasons for the same.Another room has telivised testimony of some of the survivors of the Rwandan genocide.Photography is not allowed inside the genocide museum..After the museum exhibition walked out into the burial garden where the remains of over 250,000 victims of the Rwandan 1994 genocide lie buried.After finishing the tour of Kigali genocide museum walked out of the main gate which ironically resembles Auschwitz entrance gate and boarded a "Motorcycle taxi" to reach Kigali city centre.On arriving at Kigali city centre the motorcycle taxi driver stopped at a building and to my surprise before i could pay him his RwF500 fare his motorcycle was seized by a man and taken away uphill with him following behind.
Bizarre and hilarious.What was his crime for this extreme action as also his guilt ? I waited at the same spot for some time thinking he would return as i felt guilty for not paying him his taxi fare. In the meantime a hawker approached me to buy a "Kigali tourist map" something which is provided free in tourist bureau's in most country's.I always use the local tourist map on all my solo tours and in Africa this was the first instance where i didn't have the assistance of common tourist guide maps.Glancing through his map i realized i was in close proximity to the "Kandt house museum of Natural history" and decided to visit the same.Thanked the hawker and tipped him for the accidental useful information he unwittingly provided.This is the adventure and suspence of "Solo Travel" where you are your own tour boss as well as logistics guide.Kigali City centre is the office locality of Kigali city and was crowded with people unlike the plush residential locality of Mijo hostel in Kimihurura which is a party nighclub locale with millionaire bungalow's.Absolutely exclusive locality..
The City centre office locality is on top of the hill and had to walk down hill towards "Kandt house museum of natural history".Reached the main taxi/bus stand which had a few betting shops in the long office building adjacent to the taxi stand.The betting shops were bustling with activity as this was one of the main city centres.Finally after a lot of inquiries reached the landmark "Nyarugenge Prison " which is Rwanda's oldest prison nicknamed "1930 Nyarugenge Prison". Most of the convicts of this prison were perpetrators of the 1994 genocide against the Tutsi and this prison was to be closed.From the prison it was again a short downhill walk to ""Kandt House museum of Natural history"..
Entrance ticket to the museum was RwF 6000 and akin to the "Presidential palace" there were lady guides dressed in Rwandan traditional dress.This museum was the home of German resident Richard .Kandt and a lifesize statue of him is installed near the entrance of the museum ground..My guide Mrs Hope(Esperance) took me on a guided tour of the small museum which is divided into three main parts..The entire museum exhibits are on the ground floor and on entering the first room was shown the pictured exhibits depicting Rwandan culture ,Rwandan Kings and life before the colonisation of the Country..In the second chamber a detailed account of the effect of colonization on Rwandan society especially under the German rule that began in 1884.
The effect of religious conversions of the local Rwandans into Protestants or Catholics is also depicted.Also provides details of the life of pioneer explorer of Rwanda , the German Mr Richard.Kandt.The last chamber of the ground floor provides the history of Kigali before and after colonization to its present era.After finishing the building visit Mrs Hope took me outdoors into the palatial estate where a small baby Nile crocodile is kept in a large enclosure..Most amazing is the location of Kandt House which sits at the ridge of the Nyarugenge hill with a bird's eye view of the three mountains facing it which are Mt Kigali,Mt Jali and Mt Shyoronji..Also got the best view of Old Kigali city down below in the valley.We next entered a small room that had snakes in glass enclosures.
Definitely not well maintained with the identification labels on some of the snake enclosures missing.Got to view a few of Africa's deadliest snakes from a close distance akin to seeing fish in a small aquarium.The snakes seem well fed as snakes do not require much space unlike mammals or birds.The prize views were of the Mamba, Gabon viper,Python and Spitting Cobra.Never ever have i been so close to two of the World's most poisonous snakes and took a few photographs with the snakes.After the "Snake Photo-shoot" thanked guide Mrs Hope and made my way uphill back towards the taxi/bus terminus.Lunch was at "U & B Restaurant" and was the typical "Rwandan Buffet Lunch",only a lit bit expensive costing RwF 2500.The extra dish was a vegetarian soup otherwise as normal as the average RwF 1500/2000 buffet lunches served in local hotels in Kigali.
After lunch took a ride on a "Motorcycle Taxi" back to "Mijo Hostel" stopping at the "Don Bosco" church which was on the route to the hostel.In my home city of Mumbai i either ride my motorcycle or cycle for commuting and strangely during my entire African safari travels i was the piggy back rider rather than the driver of the motorcycle or cycle.Realized the versatility of the cycle and motorcycle in negotiating heavy traffic congestion.The motorcycles used by the "Motorcycle taxi drivers" are the "TVS Victor" brand of India and not the "Bajaj Boxer " brand as preferred by the "Boda Boda" drivers of Uganda.Strange.Both neighbouring Country's prefer Indian made motorcycles but of two different manufacturer's.Relaxed in the palatial hostel bungalow blogging on my laptop A young Korean lady busy cooking in the palatial bungalow kitchen had just arrived at the hostel having completed her "Gorilla Trek" in Uganda.On inquiry with her was surprised to know that the "Single Day Gorilla" trek cost her only approximately U.S $ 650, ansolutely cheap .The treks are arranged in groups of 8 people at a time with the "Gorilla Permit" itself costing U.S $ 600.Seems for the "Gorilla Treks" in Uganda different travel agencies have different rates but U.S $ 1000 could be the basic minimum price of the Gorilla trek in Uganda.Later in the evening walked down the road to a local restaurant "Happy Cheftaine" and dinner was a normal Rwandan rice/meat curry with chips costing RwF2000.Returned back to the hostel and uploaded a few video's on "Youtube" as the hostel's Wifi router had been renewed and was functioning better than the previous gadget.
Wednesday(10/1/2018)Kigali :- The same normal routine as usual with the early morning hours spent on the laptop.The chirping of birds all over the palatial hostel estate was a sign of dawn..
After my normal habitual breakfast and after consultations with hostel manager Mr Santos took a ride on the now routine "Motorcycle taxi" to Nyanza bus terminus , a distance of 10 Kms from "Mijo hostel".On reaching the bus terminus paid the motorcycle driver RwF1000 and was lucky to immediately get a mini shared taxi to Nymata.For the first time in my life saw "Cycle Taxi's" at Nyanza bus terminus.The passenger would sit on a large modified carrier seat at the back of the cycle akin to pillion riding on a motorized two wheeler .These "CYCLE TAXI'S" are definitely meant for short distance rides as Kigali being a city of hills would make long distance "Cycle Taxi's" a next to impossible means of indigenious private transport. Its a long distance of almost 33 Kms from Nyanza bus/taxi terminus in Kigali to Nymata taxi stand and after a long journey on excellent paved highway roads finally reached Nymata taxi stand.
I was to visit the "Nymata Genocide Memorial" and after asking directions at the taxi stand headed in the right direction along the main road..It was a long walk in the cool pleasant weather and after much inquiries finally at 0945 hrs reached the entrance gate of "Nymata Genocide Memorial".I was the lone tourist at the memorial and the local lady guide showed and explained to me the various aspects of that terrible day on 14 th April 1994 when approximately 10,000 Tutsi worshipers who had taken shelter inside the church premises were massacred .This memorial is in the same Catholic church that has been preserved in the same manner as on the day this terrible human genocide took place.
There are bullet holes on the corrugated roof of the church and entrance walls. Grenades were used to blast open the door which was locked shut by the worshippers.Inside the church were the clothes of the massacred victims A section contained the skulls and bones of the victims of the Rwandan massacre of 1994.Rosaries,prayer books of the victims were kept on the altar of this former church now a memorial museum.In the centre of the church is a underground vault where coffins containing the skulls of the victims is kept. A lone coffin of a woman stands out amongst the numerous nameless heaps of skulls enclosed in all the coffins.
This woman was brutally tortured and killed and hence her coffin placed separately as a reminder of crimes against humanity.From the church we went into a open compound just outside the church premises that also housed a underground memorial of corpses in coffins.A total of 50,000 people lie buried in the "Nymata Genocide Memorial" at Nymata.Entrance to the Genocide memorial is free and visitors are obliged to drop some donations into a charitable box kept at the visitor's book signing table.From the Genocide memorial church made my way into the new church built on the same estate, a typical ordinary simple Catholic church.
After visiting the church walked the short distance back to the main road and hired a motorcycle taxi to take me to ."Ntarama Genocide Memorial" church situated a few kilometers away from Nyamata Genocide memorial..At 1045 hrs reached Ntarama genocide memorial with the entire memorial estate looking deserted and devoid of any human activity.Paid the motorcycle driver RwF 5000 and entered the main gate of the large grounds of the memorial.A lady approached me explaining that she was the guide and opened the main door of the church that was locked .Entering the small church presented almost the same tragic sight as in Nyamata church.
Here a lot of young children attending catechisnm classes lost their lives on 15th August 1994 when approximately 5000 people were massacred in this church premises.Nyamata church was the main parish church of the diocese while Ntarama was the subsidiary church .There are a total of six major centres in Rwanda that commemorate the "Rwandan 1994 Genocide" .These six centres are 1) Murambi Memorial centre 2) Kigali genocide memorial 3) Nyamata Genocide memorial 4) Bisesero genocide memorial 5)Nyarubuye memorial centre and finally 6)Ntarama genocide memorial centre...The simililarities between the "Jewish Holocaust" are the "Rwandan Genocide" are undeniable although the Jewish holocaust was on a larger scale with different political ideologies.
Rwandan Genocide was a genocide of Black African's against Black Africans while the Jewish holocaust was of Caucausian Europeans against their own Caucausian race.From the Genocide memorial it was difficult getting transport back to the main road and for the first time in my life hired a "Cycle taxi driver" to ride me back to the main road.Akin to a motorcycle pillion rider i was sitting on the enlarged well padded carrier of the cycle while the rider pedalled .On reaching the main road paid the "Cycle Taxi Rider" a fare of RwF100 and boarded the motorcycle taxi to Nyamata taxi stand.Will the "Cycle Taxi" be a future business in Indian villages ? Did i discover a novel, simple and clean mode of transport in distant Rwanda which most people in developing Country's must have overlooked ? Travel educates.
On reaching Nymata decided to have lunch at the "Coconut Bar" which had a large enclosed seating arrangement with a giant T.V screen for watching football matches.Lunch was fried chips with a stick of barbequed meat and a pint of beer costing a total of RwF 2200.A match between Arsenal and some other team was being screened on the giant T.V. After lunch was lucky to get a shared taxi on the verge of leaving the taxi stand and at 1330 hrs was at Nyanza bus terminus.A local passenger in the taxi guided me in getting the right bus to Kigali city with the bus ticket costing RwF 250 which was paid by a smart card of a passenger whom i repaid in cash.Local Rwandan's are very obliging and helpful and its impossible to believe that one of the modern World's worst holocaust took place in this beautiful country.
The bus was heading to Kigali City centre and my sense of direction told me that i could alight somewhere midway and board a motorcycle taxi to "Mijo Hostel" rather than travelling the long distance to Kigali city centre and back to Mijo hostel.A lady sitting next to me guided me on getting down at the right bus stop and after alighting the bus took the usual motorcycle taxi ride to Mijo hostel.Relaxed on my laptop in the palatial hostel.Later in the evening decided to explore the vicinity of plush and posh Kimihurura locality of "Mijo Hostel". Kimihurura is situated at a elevation of 1467 meters and the view from the large hostel verandah of the valley below and the surrounding hill side locality is amazing at night.
Walked up the road to one of the most iconic adresses in the locality ,the "Papyrus" restaturant.On all my "Motorcycle taxi" rides back to the hostel i always mentioned "Papyrus" and the driver immediately knew the location."Papyrus" has a excellent health gymnasium with the most modern equipment and does brisk business.Enquired if they had any nightclub music tonight for it was only on the week-ends on Friday's and Saturday's that this iconic adress in Kimihurura had music flowing around the vicinity till 0400 hrs.Wednesday was a dull day in "Papyrus" as far as the nightclub music was concerned and hence from "Papyrus" restaurant walked a little further down the road to "Mamba Club".On entering "Mamba Club" was surprised to see a "Volley-Ball" game in progress , a authentic club cum restaurant/night club.
There was a small swimming pool having a entry charge of RwF3000 which was reasonable as the pool was well maintained.."Mamba Club" had large space and also a indoor "Bowling Alley" hall.Excellent club although i found the swimming pool and the "Bowling Alley" devoid of footfalls.Strolled around the plush locality with palatial bungalow houses reminding me of the exclusive localities of Johannesburg and Cape Town in South Africa.Among the African Country's i have visited to date Rwanda closely resembles South Africa in infrastructure and cleanliness with the added attraction of being one of the safest city's in Africa.Entered "Sundowner" restaurant whch is also a popular nightclub and they told me that they had the best D.J playing on Friday's and Saturday's.
So there seemed to be hectic competition in Kimihurura for attracting the nightclub audience during the week-end..Walked back towards Papyrus and walked downhill to enter "African Bites" , a eatery restaurant.They served the normal "Rwandan buffet dinner" costing RwF3500 which was not a novelty dish to me having tasted the same a few times at other restaurants in Kigali.Finally returned back to plush "Mijo hostel" with two boiled eggs and a pint of Heiniken beer purchased from a local store and relaxed in the spascious verandah overlooking Kigali city .There was a short heavy shower of rain after i arrived back into the hostel and was lucky to get back to my temperorary home dry otherwise would have definitely got drenched.The view of Kigali city centre situated on the mountain facing Kimihurura and the valley below at night is absolutely scenic .Just the flickering lights of buildings and the vehicle traffic lights visible in the dark cool night..Dinner was at the small " Happy Cheftaine" restaurant that i had visited yesterday.Dinner was beef curry/rice with beer..The hostel has no telivision akin to a naturopathy resort and everyone gets busy on their laptops or smartphones as a relaxation after the day's itinerary.The hostel Wifi is better than the wifi i experienced in Europe during my recent tour and way ahead of my home city of Mumbai.
Thursday(11/1/2018) Departure Kigali :- Woke up after my normal 4 hours sleep and got busy on the laptop.Today i would be flying back home to Mumbai.
My last morning in "Mijo Hostel" to hear the early morning chirping of beautiful birds .Ultimately its the memories that remain.Made a recording of the chirping birds at the break of daylight and sad that i couldn't identify most of the birds in the vicinity.Just sitting in the balcony lounge of "Mijo Hostel" overlooking the valley below a trained "BIRDWATCHER" could have a field day in identifying various different species of birds.After breakfast had a morning walk along the familiar route i took yesterday evening but today i just happened to enter a gate having the Catholic Salesians Don Bosco photograph on the entrance gate.
I knew that the Don Bosco church was in the vicinity but on entering the gate was surprised to see a large playground and school buildings .The premises and the groung was empty of any humans except for two tall young men walking across the playground towards the gate.In Rwanda at 5 feet 10 inches in height i felt dwarfed by most of the local Black Rwandan's i met while touring Kigali city.Spoke to the tall men who told me that this was a boarding school and since it was vacations the school premises were empty of students or teachers.While we were talking a young group of children came towards us kicking a deflated football.Definitely lower income Kigalians and not from the plush neighbourhood of Kimihurura.Played a little ball passing with the tallest of the young kids who had excellent ball control.He could be a future player of Rwandan soccer or at least club soccer which could be his future ticket to wealth and comfortable living..
Thanked the kids and the two young men and walked the distance back to scenic "Mijo Hostel". After finally packing my bag realized the the bag zip was not closing which caused a panic syndrome.A hostel employee gave me a crude cloth rope which i tied round the bag while partially managing to close at least half the bag thus preventing a complete opening and spillage of clothes.Decades of sailing makes us "Marine Engineers" a very versatile breed of engineers and at the penultimate moment i averted a packing disaster by means of crude repairs to my trolley bag zip.Boarded a motorcycle taxi at 1045 hrs and was at the airport entrance gate at 1110 hrs .Motorcycles are not allowed into the airport and hence after paying the driver RwF1000 made my way into the street opposite the airport entrance gate and into " Mama Dorcas Resto and Bar " a local Rwandan restaurant crowded with the early morning breakfast crowd.
This was a typical
common Rwandan locality in
close vicinity to the Presidential Palace that symbolized the average Kigali Rwandan daily lifestyle unlike the plush tourist locales of my residence "Mijo Hostel" in Kimihurura . Indian cuisine has a
permanent place in East and central African daily food with the “Chappati”
being common in all the three country’s I have visited.Breakfast was a single
Chappati with Rwandan tea. Excellent soft
chappati with a large cup of milk tea. Normal breakfast of the average Rwandan
is Chappati with a large bowl of soya beans.The bill amounted to only RwF 500
which was definitely cheap considering the quality of the food and restaurant .After
breakfast walked into the airport and was directed to the pedestrian checkpoint
by the security guard.The airport campus was small and neat as is entire Kigali.Kigali city was a paradox to me with its neatness, cleanliness and First World infrastructure coupled with extremities in wealth equality amongst the local's as also being one of the safest city's i have visited.After the normal airport check walked the short distance
to the “Departure Lounge”.
Was told by the security that I was too early and hence whiled away my time at the airport “Bourbon Experience restaurant” that had a well decorated Christmas tree and a giant T.V screening African Nations football. The prices of snacks in this restaurant was at 5 star rates since I was familiar with the prices of snacks in Kigali restaurants.At 1300 hrs entered the main departure security gate where i had to undergo a second identical security check.After the security check made my way to the Ethiopian airlines check-in counter and collected both my connecting flights boarding ticket. My first flight on "ET 816" was to Addis Ababa and allotted seat No 23 L.My second flight on "ET 640".was from Addis Ababa to Mumbai and allotted seat No 15A.
Finally after the ticket collection queued for the immigration clearance and after that made my way into the duty free lounge.Excellent small airport with the minimum number of passengers i have encountered during my countless check-in at various airports across the World.I couldn't believe the fact that there was a third round of "SECURITY CHECK" which was on entry to the boarding gate from the "Duty Free Lounge". Another first in my lifetime of air travels where everyone has to undergo 3 scrutinizing security checks in which beside's removing your entire clothing you have to strip yourself off all your belongings including shoes.That too thrice in a short span of time.I will never forget Kigali airport for its security checks.Plane took off a few minutes late from Kigali with many
seats vacant and me having both the seats next to me empty.Plane reached Bujumbura (Burundi) on time as per schedule. For the first time in my life was in transit inside the aircraft at Bujumbura airport having previously alway's changed a flight at a transit airport.This same plane would be flying to Addis Ababa and hence no need of changing planes which was excellent considering airport security checks .
From the air the vicinity of the airport seemed absolutely forested.The plane got filled in Bujumbura and a black African occupied the seat on the aisle with the middle seat empty.The flight was excellent with drinks and food. Picked up a conversation with my co-traveller a pastor with a PhD in theology and teaching theology in Congo D.P.R. The plane landed in Addis Ababa on time and was aghast on seeing the long queue and the large crowd at the security check-in for transit passengers. Resembled a common market rather than a airport terminal.I thought Istanbul was bad for transit “Check-in” but seem’s Addis Ababa definitely is one of the most busiest airports in the World .After a long wait in the queue it was the routine check up that is a harassment to the average air traveller.Finally passed through the security and made my way to “Gate No 5” which also had other passengers waiting in the airport lounge for departures from gates 1 to 7 situated on the same ground floor .The entire waiting lobby hall reminded me of a common crowded Mumbai railway station waiting lounge rather than a International airport. From sparsely populated Kigali airport it was a experience to be in Ethiopia’s Bole airport which is definitely one of the most chaotic crowded airports i have visited to date.
Departure of "ET 0640" from Bole airport was punctual at 2340 hrs with me exchanging my seat with another passenger wanting to be with his colleague.Bizarrely even on this flight a seat was vacant in the middle three row seat arrangement with the other passenger being a Indian origin South African tourist.It was a comfortable "Business Class Style" journey and at 0700 hrs touched down at "Chhatrapati Shivaji airport" in Mumbai.The immigration check at Mumbai was the next boring queue in the early morning hours and finally after the immigration formalities entered the "Duty Free" shops and did my normal purchases.Hired a post paid taxi from the airport costing Rs 490 and at 0830 hrs was at my house in Old Prabhadevi road.A successful "African travel Safari" of travelling through four country's that began in the last week of December 2017 had come to a end in the second week of January 2018.
Read my previous adventure trek :- https://dudhsagarwaterfallstrek.blogspot.in/
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| On New Year day in Entebbe Airport |
Reached Bole International airport in a matter of 15 minutes with the taxi fare being 200 Birr.It was a long walk from the taxi stand to Terminal 2 Departure lounge and the security check was irritating.After the normal ticket check-in it was another nightmare of baggage and physical checking after passing through immigration. Never in my lifetime of hectic Jet travel have I faced a double security check for the same flight.The Flight was punctual on time and as a passenger was absent in the 3 way sitting aisle of my row it was a comfortable short journey with excellent meals and drinks.My Co-passenger was a White British businessman on a safari drive in Africa.He and his colleague would be driving around Uganda and he had pre-booked the expensive "Gorilla Trek" tour in Uganda with the permit being U.S $ 600 only. Landed in Entebbe at 1230 hrs with a view of beautiful Lake Victoria as we landed on terra firma.After the Visa formalities changed Dollars into Ugandan shillings @ 1$U.S = 3695 USh and headed to the tourist information counter to inquire about transport to ”Gorilla African Guest House ”.
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| On highway with "Old Entebbe Airport" in background. |
Entebbe town lies on the peninsular of Lake Victoria, the largest lake in Africa and is 37 Kms southwest of Kampala city, the Capital of Uganda.Uganda gets its name from the Buganda Kingdom which encompasses a large part of Southern Uganda including the capital Kampala.It was the seat of the Government of the protectorate of Uganda before Independence from Britain on 9 October 1962.The"State House" in the centre of Entebbe town built on 57 hectare piece of land on the two hills of Nsamizi and Newambwa is the official residence and office of the President of Uganda .Entebbe in the local Luganda language means"Seat" and is the home of the"Uganda Virus research Institute" that with other International health organizations does research on infectious diseases most notably "H.I.V", "Tuberculosis","Malaria" and "Helmith".
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| Entrance to plush "Gorilla African Guesthouse" |
.Entebbe Airport first hit the International headlines on Thursday 7 February 1952 when a young Princess Elizabeth on a safari at the World famous "Tree Tops" hotel in Kenya flew from this airport to London via El Adem in Libya on being proclaimed Queen of England on the death of her father King George VI. English language inherited from the British colonial rule is the chief first language with Swahili and Luganda being the second common languages within Uganda. A taxi driver named Jackson agreed to drive me to the resort on a charge of 8 U.S $ and on the way he showed me the Old Entebbe airport openly visible from the Entebbe-Kampala highway. .This airport now used by the Ugandan army as a United Nations air base became a household name on Sunday 4 July 1976 after the unique successful Israeli Commando raid named "Operation Entebbe or Operation Thunderbolt"on the terrorists holding Israeli plane passengers hostage on "Air France plane 139" at Entebbe airport .Osama Bin Laden's closely guarded secret assasination by the elite American Seals in Abbotabad in Pakistan would rank on par with the "Raid on Entebbe" saga.
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| Entebbe Town |
From the old airport road we passed along the heavily guarded "State House" where photography is strictly prohibited.Finally arrived at the "Gorilla African guest house" situated at 14,Jinja road which resembled a miniature national park with lush green tree’s and decorative jungle natural art. The Manager Mr Joshua.Lenin allotted me a private room in "Cottage No 13”.Superstitious about "N0 13 " ? Its alway's been a lucky number for me as has been for a few others ! A excellent cosy room with self-attatched hot water shower bath and a T.V. Unlike "Selam Hotel" shared toilet /bath sewage drainaige reverse flow in Addis Ababa this cosy self contained accomodation was equivalent to a 5-star jungle resort. Excellent.
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| Entebbe Town.Clean & well paved roads. |
Reminded me of some of the plush Jungle lodges in the national parks of India .Later in the evening while walking along the isolated red mud road towards Entebbe Town got a lift from a local and wasdropped in Entebbe Town. Entebbe Town is a clean small village town having large palatial bungalows and resorts. As usual spoke to a few local taxi driver’s and Boda Boda (Motorcycle taxi) rider’s getting a practical insight into this beautiful small town that became a household name during the Idi Amin era for one of the World’s most unbelievable military operations in peace time. Had a early dinner at “Dinner’s restaurant and takeaway” on recommendation of the taxi driver’s and was not disappointed with the local Ugandan food. After ages was paying bills in thousands with the meal costing me 10,000 Shillings .
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| Selling pineapples on a "Bajaj Moped" in Entebbe Town |
Just strolled along the empty street with me being the only Asian among the Black Ugandan African’s. Later a few hawkers displayed their food stock on the pavements akin to my home city of Mumbai and purchased a mango costing Sh 1000.Local Uganadan hawker's don't like being photographed and honestly i didn't miss India also realizing the reason's for Indian's being at home in East Africa when it was first colonized by the British.Uganda was once home to a large Asian population akin to Mombasa my city of birth with overnight “Slum Dog Millionaire” hero Dev Patel being of Ugandan Indian descent .Entebbe brought back childhood memories of Mombasa as time and modernization stood still in this small village city of Uganda. All the "Boda Boda's" in Entebbe were of the "Bajaj Boxer" model with myself owning a"Bajaj Wind-125" model back home in Mumbai.
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| On trademark"Bajaj Boxer motorcycle taxi(Boda Boda)" |
I was definitely in familiar surroundings with Indian brand imported motorcycles ruling the roads of Entebbe. Boarded a “Boda Boda(Motorcycle Taxi)” costing Sh 2000 on my way back home to the resort and sighted a Sikh Gurudwara on the route.Internet service in the dining hall of the resort was excellent having 4G bandwidth and on par with First World country's .Updated my blogs and got in touch with social website "Facebook" which i couldn't access in my hotel in Addis Ababa.I had read about Kenya being a pioneer in Internet networking in Africa and seems Uganda is on par with Kenya.Sipped a "Tusker beer" while blogging on my laptop in the dense forest resort of this classic guesthouse .
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| BEHIND THE SCENES WILDLIFE TOUR IN "U.W.E.C" :- Feeding the Giraffe. |
Tuesday(2/1/2018) Entebbe:- Got my luxurious four hours sleep in the plush cosy jungle hut of palatial "Gorilla Afriacan guest house" and at dawn officialy strolled into the palatial resort estate listening to the sounds of various birds and mooing of some cattle instead of the normal T.V entertainment.
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| Breakfast at classic "Gorilla African Guest House" |
Entebbe is a base for United Nations Peacekeeping force with the Old airport being the base and hence the occasional sounds of planes landing and taking off in the early morning hours.Breakfast was at 0745 hrs and consisted of bread, two fried eggs,pineapple, banana,butter,jam, honey etc with coffee or tea.Excellent 5 star style breakfast and free with the hotel rental.After breakfast boarded the "Boda Boda(Motorcycle taxi)" which is a adrenalin junkie ride as the village roads are bumpy and the pillion passenger doesn't wear a helmet which could be disastrous in case of a fall.As a motorcycle and cycle rider i am qualified to comment of the positive and negative aspects of motorcycle and cycle riding.At a hire cost of Sh 2000 headed to the Uganda wildlife education centre.The Ugandan Wildlife Education centre was formed in 1994 having previously functioned as a zoo.In 2015 the "U.W.E.C(Uganda Wildlife Education Centre)" received the"World Association of Zoo's and Aquaria " award from among all the zoo's in the world.
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| Entrance to "U.W.E.C" zoo. |
The award was for the zoo excelling in using biodiversity related educational materials supporting the United Nations Decade for biodiversity 2011 - 2020. I was one of the first entrants into the zoo and decided to do the "Behind the scenes" wildlife tour which cost U.S $ 70.Before the start of the tour i was told to sign a bond stating that the zoo was not responsible if any untoward accident occured while interacting with the wild animals.A job of a "Big Cat" handler would have suited my professional aptitude as akin to a "Horse, dog or cat whisperer" i do have control and understanding of animals.
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| 6 month old "Edward".Rescued from Elizabeth Park |
A White Finnish family living in Uganda consisting of two men,two women and two young kids were before me in waiting for this private personalized zoo tour.Finally we were a group of 5 tourists which consisted of the two Finnish men and the two young kids along with zoo-keeper guide Mr Richard.Kaahwa and myself. Akin to a National park safari we were driven in a open mini van around the zoo stopping at enclosures on the route .We began at the Ostrich enclosure where young zoo-keeper Mr Richard.Kaahwa explained us the importance of this wildlife education centre in conserving Uganda's wildlife.
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| Cattle with World's longest horns :- Ankole breed Bull. |
We next stopped at the "Big Cat Enclosure" where a young lion and two Cheetahs were caged.Zoo-keeper Richard showed us the method of isolating the animals from the open large yard on which they roam as in any normal zoo.Got to know the Finnish tourists of whom the younger gentleman was a International school teacher in Kampala while the elder man was his father-in-law and the young boy and girl being the children of the teacher.along with me entered the small cage.After isolating "Pian" the full grown wild cheetah he told us to enter the cage and the three of us quietly entered the small cage with the two young children left behind for security resons.
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| The Endangered White Rhino .Only 22 in Uganda. |
The beautiful large male Cheetah "Pian" made me less nervous than my tiny cat "Matata" back home in Mumbai.Realized the ease with which this fastest land beast could be trained by humans as house pets as well as for hunting.Remember visiting the Bhavnagar Palace hotel in Gujarat which had paintings of hunting cheetah's with their human handlers during a era when cheetah's were used for hunting by the Indian Royalty before it became extinct as a species in the sub-continent.Much later Indian Royalty itself was officially dissolved and no- kill hunting in the 21st century acomplished by means of a "Camera Lens". The Cheetah is also gradually becoming extinct in parts of Africa due to habitat destruction and conflict with farmer's for preying on livestock and hope this lithe animal does not become totally extinct from the animal World.
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| Endangered "Shoebill Stork". |
. From the Cheetah enclosure we visited the "White Rhino" enclosure petting the huge rhinos.These were a pair of full grown white rhino's which are extinct in the wild forests in Uganda and now only about 22 White rhino's exist in entire Uganda Hope is that this number might increase through conservation breeding.These two caged rhino's were not a breeding pair and used only for educational purposes by the zoo. Next was the feeding of a 6 month old orphaned baby elephant named"Edward" rescued from a swamp in Hamukungu village of Queen Elizabeth National park in Uganda.."Edward's" intelligent antics was humorous akin to a small human child and the two kids were thrilled feeding this small baby giant that was as tall as them..Most humorous was this tiny baby elephant rushing back to its enclosure home after eating all the treats we fed it realizing that there was nothing more to eat and hence useless entertaining us humans for free .From baby elephant "Edward" we entered a vast open savannah ground which had antelopes, giraffe's and common big horn cattle.
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| Troop of hilarious rescued Chimpanzees. |
When the red coloured lone Ankole bull approached our open van along with antelopes and the giraffe i was shocked on seeing the horns of this bull. We fed the giraffe's from the open van while the size of the horns of the Ankole bull was just amazing and we had to be careful in avoiding the horns while feeding these animals from our open van.If the bull accidentally lifted its head while feeding on the ground below us we could get gored as its horns towered above the open guard railing of the vehicle. This breed of cattle is called "Ankole Watusi" cattle in America being named after the Watusi tribe of Africa which is actually the Tutsi tribe of Rwanda.The World record for the longest cattle horns belongs to this breed of cattle. .In my lifetime it was the first time i had seen such long horns on a bull.From the African Savannah enclosure we next entered the large aviary of the Shoebill Stork unique to Africa and now a endangered species due to habitat destruction.The bird was as tame and intelligent as a pet parrot.Next visited the enclosure of 6 year old rescued African Elephant "Charlie" whom we just observed from outside the enclosure for unlike 6 month old "Edward" he had outgrown his"Baby Elephant" childishness and was too big and powerful to be cuddled or petted.
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| With "U.W.E.C" zookeeper Mr Richard.Kaahwa. |
The plan of the zoo was to release these elephants into the wild forests once they attained maturity.Don't we human's also change in character and behaviour as we evolve from childhood to adulthood.The visit to the Chimpanzee enclosure was just too good to be true.A group of Chimpanzees are resident in the enclosure with all of them being rescued animals from either the illegal pet trade or bankrupt circuses.A large water moat formed a natural enclosure while a net covered the top of this large artificial island enclosure.Chimpanzees are mortally afraid of water as ther cannot swim and sink like a piece of stone if venturing into deep water.
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| "ELDER'S TREE" at "U.W.E.C".Over 100 years old. |
I didn't know this strange peculiar fact about chimpanzees and their inability to learn swimming until zoo- keeper Mr Richard.Kaahwa told us the same.Very strange for a ape that is closest to us humans in many aspects.Travel educates.As soon as we arrived the chimpanzees realized it was feeding time and rushed towards the waters edge to receive banana treats thrown into the enclosure by zoo-keeper Richard,The oldest chimpanzee Zakayo was 54 years old discovered by a White man in 1964 in Bundibogya when just a year old .At the age of 14 years his owner handed him over to the Conservation authorities as chimpanzees are difficult to handle as pet's when mature. In his young hey day's "ZAKAYO" entertained his legend of human fan's smoking cigar's and expertly peeling and eating banana's and on rare occasions excepting liquor from some zoo visitor's ."Zakayo" is the main tourist attraction of the "U.W.E.C" , a World-wide poster celibrity among the rare indigenious zoo inmates.
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| View of Lake Victoria Botanical Garden beach |
I will never ever forget the antics and sign language of these group of chimpanzees .All these chimpanzees have been sterilized to prevent them from reproducing as the park only maintains them for education purposes.There was no need for me to visit Ngamba island to see the chimpanzees as this group made me understand their intelligence and behaviour , The World's most famous celibrity chimpanzee "Bubbles" would have loved this esteemed gang of fellow chimpanzees living in the island moat enclosure of "U.W.E.C" zoo.Our last stop was at the turtle/tortoise enclosure and we were explained the difference between the two.After the personalized guided tour we thanked guide Richard.Kaahwa and headed our separate ways with me doing a second round of tour of the different animal and bird enclosures.
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| Equatorial rainforest in Botanical garden.(Tarzan Films) |
For the first time got to view Lake Victoria from the Wildlife education centre grounds as the lake forms one side of a natural boundary of the park.Came across the landmark "Elder's Tree" whose botanical name is "Pseudospondias Microcapa" and which at 100 + year is one of the oldest trees in the conservation cetre estate.This tree has numerous medicinal properties for treating various diseases. The lake's beach was similar to sea sand and akin to the sea horizon land cannot be sighted in the horizon of lake Victoria.Was filled with awe looking into a endless horizon of the largest lake in Africa.Tasted the water which was as sweet as tap water.From the shore of the lake walked back to the exit of the zoological wildlife centre and hired a "Boda Boda" for the short uphill distance along Hillside road to Entebbe town for lunch.Lunch wasa pint of "Tusker beer" along with Ugandan cuisine named "Matooke" at "Dinners Bar and Takeaway".
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| "A Mountain out of a Anthill " in Botanical Gardens. |
The meal consisted of a few different vegetables along with a bowl of beef meat.After lunch walked down Hillside road and after a few inquiries found my way to the "National Botanical Gardens" of Uganda. Entrance fee to the garden was Sh 10,000 and the services of a guide costed me another Sh 10,000.This Botanical gardens was laid out in 1898 by Mr A.Whyte, the first curator of this garden complex. The Garden complex is divided into various zones according to its vegetation and hence the importance of a local guide.Guide Mr Richard.Musoke was excellent and during our long walk around the garden got to sight some excellent rare birds.Among birds sighted were the Hadada Ibis, Hornbills,Great blue tracow,Fish eagle and pied king fishers.Spotted two groups of Colobus monkeys which had escaped from a zoo and now residents in the botanical garden.Lake Victoria forms one of the natural boundary's of the Botanical garden and the Botanical garden beach had a few swimmers swimming as well as partying on the clean white sand beach.
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| At Edge of Cliff in Botanical garden |
Saw the largest anthill in my life in the Botanical park and our last visit was to the equatorial forest which was a locale in the1940's for a film shooting of one of the movies of the "Tarzan Film franchisee". After the "Tarzan Equatorial Forest" walk visit it was the end of my guided tour and thanking guide Musoke walked towards two white tourists feeding a group of "Vervet Monkeys".They were Russian tourists and the Vervet monkeys were enjoying free peanuts which they took from the hand of the tourists.They gave me some peanuts to feed the monkeys and i had a excellent time photographing these mischievious and harmlass creatures.After feeding the monkeys walked back to the exit and hired a "Boda Boda" to take me back to the hotel.Enroute suddenly spotted two Maribou Storks at a roadside garbage dump and told the Boda Boda driver to stop the motorcycle.Couldn't believe my luck in seeing natural wildlife in the heart of Entebbe city akin to stray dogs or cats at a garbage dump.As a professional speculative gambler should say that today's day was paydirt luck in sighting species that are normally seen in a open wildlife national parks. Arrived at the guesthouse and relaxed through blogging with the "Orange" Internet server system being excellent akin to Reliance Gio of India .
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| Elite membership to "BRAGGERS RIGHTS CLUB" :- Ahoy there . Rudolph.A.Furtado is on the Equater in Kayabwe ! |
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| Kisenyi Bus Terminal in Kampala. |
.Best remedy to keep mosquito's away is by sleeping under a fan .My excellent cottage hut had a T.V with a control from the managers office that screens a single programme in English language.Woke up to National Geographic and one of the most pleasant morning weather in the World.No wonder British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill referred to their then colony Uganda as the "Pearl Of Africa".Breakfast was at 0730 hrs in the "Mango bar and restaurant" of the resort.Guesthouse Manager Mr Joshua guided me for the journey to Kayebwe to set foot on the "EQUATER LINE".After breakfast walked out of the palatial guest-house estate and downhill to Lugonjo junction.
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| Kampala - Masaka :-Unforgettable 3 hour wait in Bus ! |
At 0830 hrs boarded a shared taxi to Kampala costing Sh 3000 and although it is only 41 Kms from Entebbe reached Kampala at 1000 hrs due to heavy traffic logging on the approach road towards Kampala.The crowded streets of Kampala resembled parts of congested Mumbai except for a different race of people.At Kampala bus stop boarded a "Boda Boda" and straight away headed to Trinity Bus terminal.Booked my bus ticket to Kigali for Friday(5/1/2018) costing Sh 40,000 only.From the booking office again boarded a "Boda Boda" and headed to Kisenyi bus terminal in Kampala to board the bus or shared taxi to Kayabwe.
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| Street Hawkers in Kampala.Barbeque meat on sticks. |
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| Finally after 3 hrs waiting start of the bus journey |
Crew member's irrespective of rank/status crossing the Equater for the first time are lined on deck with the entire ship's crew as a audience except those on ship operational duty. These first time Equater crossing candidates have to do hilarious antics or are bathed in engine oil/grease or are made to taste weird food or liquids as ordered by a veteran seniour crew member playing the role of the Sea God "Neptune".At the end of the ceremony they are given a "Ship Equater Crossing Certificate" to avoid repeatations of this ceremony on future voyages across the Equater. I got the feeling the bus staff was playing the "Equater Crossing" land tradition ceremony on me by making me wait in the bus to enjoy the definition of the word idleness.To corrupt a John.Lennon verse,quote, "I was in the stationary bus "ROSA" at Kisenyi bus terminus for 3 hours just watching Ugandan hawkers and people pass me by as i clicked photographs ".Travel educates.
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| Kayabwe Town :- EQUATER TOWN of Uganda. |
Always learn and understand the local culture of the city or Country before travelling otherwise what happened to me on this bus could happen to one and every tourist unaccustomed to Ugandan method of public transport.Kayabwe is at a distance of 80 Kms from Kampala on the Kampala- Masaka highway The highway to Masaka was a route that takes the tourist through the Ugandan Countryside with its lush green vegetation and road side hawkers at every major stop.Finally at 1530 hrs reached the equater point of Kyabwe.Strangely i was expecting the " Equater Photo Shoot Poin to be crowded with tourists for that unique "Bragger's Rights" photo for social websites and ancestors but strangely found myself the only single V.I.P tourist !
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| Middleman ? :- Lunch at "Equater Line Restaurant" |
The penance of the long 3 hour wait in the bus had paid indirect dividends and i could get myself photographed at leisure,There was no queue as is normal in most unique tourist spots around the World and i have been to a few of them including the "Cape of Good Hope" in South Africa.A saleswoman of a handicraft shop rented me a Ugandan Football T- shirt and took my photographs on the "Equater Line" indicator post..Later i crossed the road and had a signature Ugandan snack named "Rolex" at the landmark "Equater Line Restaurant" built on the equater line that passes through it. My geography studies was coming to reality.
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| Typical Ugandan street hawkers along the highway. |
Finally decided to stop behaving like a child in a toy shop and make the long travel safari back home to Entebbe.Boarded a shared taxi and the journey back to Kampala was torturous to say the least.I was experiencing the lifestyle of the average Ugandan and it is tough.Came across numerous hawkers selling eatables at every stop of the van.Finally at 1830 hrs we reached Kampala bus terminus and to my goodluck boarded a shared taxi that was on the verge of beginning the journey to Entebbe.The Traffic on the Kampala -Entebbe highway crawled and it took us two hours to cover the 41 kms journey to Entebbe town.The shared taxi dropped me on Hill lane and after a short walk up the lane reached the familiar surroundings of Entebbe Old Town.The Street lights in Entebbe are dim akin to a village and the way back to Gorilla guesthouse on the signature "Boda Boda" was a authentic African safari in almost pitch darkness.Finally at 2045 hrs i was back home in one piece safe and sound in classic "Gorilla African guesthouse".
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| At Aero Beach :- A chance meeting with Ugandan Industrialist Mzee Cornelius.Lorika.Kodet(C.L.Kodet) |
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| My palatial room at "Gorilla African Guesthouse". |
Today the WiFi was non operational as the rental charges were not updated by manager Joshua.After a sumptuous breakfast the WiFi was reactivated after a money transfer through smart phone which made me realize that Uganda was leaps and bounds on par with First World country's in terms of Smartphone literacy and Internet bandwidth.At 0900 hrs left the guesthouse and walked downhill to the familiar Lugonjo junction.Took a "Boda Boda" to Aero Beach with the hire charges being the standard Sh 2000.On arriving at the gates just walked in and was stopped by the guard who told me to pay the entrance fee of Sh 5000.
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| Entrance to "Aero Beach" on Lake Victoria |
I was the lone tourist and felt i had entered a scrapyard of planes with a large British airways plane dominating the Plane Scrapyard and a host of other war planes scattered on the ground of the beach resort. At one end of the large beach were the life size statues of World leader's akin to Madame Tussaud's .Prominent among the statues were those of Ugandan President Yoweri.Museveni and his wife Janet.Musoveni welcoming Queen Elizabeth II during the "CHOGM 2007" summit held in Uganda.Statues of Mahatma.Gandhi, Nelson.Mandela and former Tanzanian President Julius.Nyerere were all kept in a single parallel order along the beach.On entering the desolate beach felt like Robinson Crusoe shipwrecked on a desolate plane scrapyard island.Adjutant storks were as common as crows on the trees and for the first time in my life saw wild Maribou Stocks in such large numbers.
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| Aero Beach Museum :- Scrap Plane on Aero Beach estate. |
Beside's Maribou Storks there were wild ducks, kingfishers, cormorants, terns and numerous other aquatic bird species which i couldn't identify.A aquatic bird watchers paradise.Undressed and kept my belongings on a bench on the sandy beach and did my trademark "Bonny (Hindi Slang for First) DIVE" into the crystal clear water of Lake Victoria.The Swimming area had been cordoned off with a floating boundary marker and i just lazed in the cool water of Africa's largest lake and the second largest lake in the World after Lake Superior in North America..Statistics quote that approximately 5000 people drown in Lake Victoria every year which surprised me on seeing the calm serene waters of the lake which resembled well water.The drowning cases are mainly due to poor seamanship, unstable boats a lack of safety equipment and most importantly bad weather.In Lake Victoria the weather changes abruptly and the calm water i was now seeing could in a few hours change into a mini tsunami of large waves overturning small fishing boats in this vast 68,800 SqKm of water mass bordering the Country's of Kenya,Uganda and Tanzania..There are a few other private beaches along the same coast line of Aero beach seperated by partition boundary barricades along the sand.
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| "Raid on Entebbe 1976" aircrafts museum on Aero Beach. |
The Oldest beach in this vicinity is"Lido Beach". A lone worker was cleaning the beach and i requested him to click some photo's to which he obliged.Although i swim 2 Kms daily in the swimming pool in Mumbai its once in a lifetime opportunity to have a dip in Lake Victoria.A pair of dogs were attracted towards me with one of them becoming my best friend and even swimming into the water to be with me.Bizarre and true.Later after satisfying my joy of swimming in Lake Victoria came out of the water and got myself dressed.Noticed that most of the palatial large armchairs in the restaurant of this beach resort were made of long cattle horns of the Akole breed of Long horn cattle akin to the bull i saw at the "U.W.E.C" zoo.
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| Maribou Storks with the lone crow on Aero beach. |
As i was relaxing on one of the beach lounge chairs a young gentleman approached me introducing himself as Mr Monday.John.Asiimwe , the manager of Aero Beach resort.Had a talk with him and he told me that the junkyard planes were the actual original war planes destroyed by the Israeli Commando force during the legendary Sunday July 4 , 1976 raid on Entebbe known as"Operation Entebbe or Operation Thunderbolt" that overnight made this small airport town a household name across the World. A Large passenger plane that seemed intact among the damaged junk war planes was the actual authentic hijacked "Air France 139 " hostage plane.This former "Air france 139" plane was placed between two small bungalow office buildings
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| A Swim in Lake Victoria |
I was surrounded in the midst of the "Raid on Entebbe" open air history museum.He later took me to meet his boss whom i thought would be the average Ugandan businessman.On entering the first floor of one of the Bungalow offices situated on the starboard side of the historic "Air France 139" plane was greeted by two tall Black men of whom one was sitting at the end of a long conference table while the other whom i presumed to be his deputy was seated next to him.A prominent photo of Ugandan President Yoweri.Museveni hung high above on the wall end of the long table on which the boss was seated.The entire office hall wall had framed photographs of various African Political leaders with large chairs designed from Ankole cattle horns.The large elderly over 6 feet tall man who was the boss asked me if my family was persecuted by Idi.Amin to which i replied in the negative stating that i was born in Kenya decades ago.Idi .Amin Dada was President of Uganda from 1971 to 1979 after disposing sitting President Milton.Obote in a military coup.During his regime human rights groups and International observers have estimated that approximately 1,00,000 to 5,00,000 people were killed as a direct or indirect result of his brutal Dictatorial rule.As a gambler/Investor by profession i am accustomed to daily financial shocks but was definitely shocked to realize that the giant gentleman seated like a king on a large chair decorated with traditional Ankole cattle horns was one of the business and political icons of modern Uganda.
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| Historic "Air France 139" placed between 2 buildings. |
My attire was the common signature informal swim wear Bermuda shorts and T-shirt with rubber sandals which i normally wear regularly for my daily commuting to the swimming pool in Mumbai and not formal office wear clothing .Honestly i was embarrassed with my casual attire but then even in my wildest dreams did not imagine meeting a personality of the stature of Mzee Cornelius.Lorika .Kodet.Mzee is a Swahili word of respect which when translated in English means "Elder".Late President Jomo.Kenyatta of Kenya whom i distinctly remember welcoming waving a paper Kenya flag on the main street of Mombasa along with my "Sacred Heart High School" classmates of the 1960's was alway's referred to as Mzee Jomo.Kenyatta. Childhood nostalgia in rediscovering my African roots.Over a cup of pure Indian tea which he personally offered me Ugandan Industrialist Mzee Cornelius.L.Kodet(C.L.Kodet on visiting card ) explained to me the various photographs on the wall with him and his wife in the presence of Ugandan Royalty and President's in some of the photographs. He also explained me the importance of local Kings in Ugandan culture and politics.We discussed the unforgettable Late President Idi.Amin who revolutionized the Asian community of Uganda and seems a few of his children are very much living in Uganda.
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| On Aero Beach with "Man's best friend". |
President Idi Amin had got rid of all the various Ugandan Kings but now after his overthrow the Kings were restored to control their fiefdoms although with no actual political power.He was the chairman of "Kodet International Limited" beside's a string of other companies listed on his visiting card.He wanted Indian investors to invest in Uganda and had the utmost respect for Indians and Indian businessmen.He talked of his personal friendship with Uganda businessman Mr Jai.Mehta of the"Mehta Group" founded by pioneering Gujarati businessman Mr Nanji.Kalidas.Mehta(1887 -1969) and was literally pleading for Indians to invest in Uganda.Ugandan born Kenya rally driver Late Mr Shekhar.Mehta , a scion of the Mehta Industrialist family was the first rally driver to win the "East African Safari Rally" four times in a row in his trademark Datsun car.Remember standing in a lage crowd outside Brabourne stadium to get a glimpse of Mr Shekhar.Mehta and his Datsun car during his visit to the city en-route on a World safari in the1980's.My life had come to a full circle.In those day's i admired fancy car's and car driving while today its Cycling and motorcycling that's my passion .Most common Indians associate Uganda with Dictator Idi.Amin.Dada and Sugar Baron Ugandan Industrialist Mr Mayur.Madhwani who in 1974 married India's reigning film actress of her generation Mumtaz.Askari and overnight became a household name in India.In India cricketers and actors are worshipped after Gods and Godesses.
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| After a swim. "Tilipia fish(Ngenge)" lunch on Aero Beach |
Mr Coenelius.Kodet is on first name terms with many African political leaders and told me that he would be meeting Kenyan President Mr Uhuru. Kenyatta in Nairobi and i felt i was hallucinating like "Alice in Wonderland" rather than actually being in the physical presence of a power broker and Industrialist of African politics.His assistant Pius gave me their phone numbers and i requested him for a photo shoot as its not everyday that a common tourist comes across political or Industrial luminaries of their respective Country's.After the meeting with Industrialist Mr C.L.Kodet and his secretary Mr Pius made my way out of their office into the beach area.
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| With Mr Monday.Assimwe of "Aero Beach. |
Decided to have lunch at Aero beach and manager Mr Monday.Assimwe got the same prepared from the resort kitchen.After a deliscious lunch of fried Tilapia fish/chips and salad bid adieu to manager Mr Monday.Asiimwe and took a taxi ride on the "Boda Boda" back to "Gorilla African Guesthouse".On the way decided to take a few photos of the open air Old Entebbe airfield of the "Raid on Entebbe" fame and while taking the photos was immediately accosted by a civil uniform security man travelling in a car behind us.Immediately like magic two armymen in uniform also arrived on the spot with their vehicle .Photography was prohibited as this was a United Nations airfield used for military puposes.Apologized to the police official and armymen and headed to our destination.This is a open airfield viewed by one and sundry from the highway and hence the ban on photography baffled my reasoning of secrecy.Relaxed for a hour at the scenic "Gorilla African Guest House" resort and later boarded a "Boda Boda" to Imperial Mall situated in downtown Entebbe on the main Kampala-Entebee Airport highway.
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| At the biggest Mall in Entebbe. |
Visited the "Diamond Casino" that had opened last year in 2017 and was ultra modern on par with the best Casino's in the World .The casino was almost empty and consisted of only the ground floor of the large Imperial mall building complex."Sports Gambling" is legalized in Uganda and i did see a few betting shops in Kampala during my safari travel to Kayabwe.From Imperial mall walked along the highway road along the plush Portland road to Victoria Mall which is the largest mall in Entebbe.The Mall was beautifully decorated for the Christmas/New Year festive season and was palatial although without escalators.There was a"NumaxTheatre" in the mall premises as also a plush health gymnasium with a expensive membership fee.From the Mall walked back to Entebbe Town and decided to have a dinner consisting of the Nile Perch fish which is common in lake Victoria.The fisher-women hawker ladies were selling dried and fried Nile Perch fish as well as fresh and dried Tilapia on the pavement of Entebbe Town.Fresh Nile Perch was not sold by the pavement fisher-women and only sold in the main fish market of Entebbe Town.Entered "Dinners Bar and Restaurant" and requested the manager to prepare me a "Nile Perch/Rice Curry" to which he obliged ordering the same from the local fish market.The Nile Perch (Lates) is a gigantic lake fish at times weighing upto 160 Kgs with a record catch weighing over 480 Kgs. Unbelievable but true. After a long wait for .dinner as the meal was prepared in the kitchen did finally get a taste of the excellent fresh Nile Perch/Rice washed down with a pint of Nile beer.Today i had been on a total diet of local Ugandan fish cuisine and was happy for the same.Fried Tilapia at Aero beach and now the exclusive"Nile Perch" in Entebbe Town. After dinner boarded a "Boda Boda" back to "Gorilla African guest house".
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| At the Kasubi Tombs in Kampala. |
Friday(5/1/2018) Deparure Kampala :- Today was my last breakfast in classic and chic "Gorilla African Guesthouse" as i would be checking out at 1000 hrs and heading to Kampala.
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| With Mr Joshua.Lenin of "Gorilla African Guesthouse" |
The Guesthouse was totally booked to capacity on my departure with almost all the tourists being Caucausians. All from First world country's and most of them would definitely be heading for the "Gorilla Trek". .After breakfast bid Manager Joshua.Lenin goodbye and boarded a “Boda Boda” and headed to the shared taxi stand at Lugonjo bus stand.. Boarded a “Shared Taxi” at 0930 hrs and it was a crawling slow drive in peak working hours traffic towards Kampala city.On reaching Kampala passed along the large Swaminarayan Mandir Hindu temple in one of the most crowded streets of the city.If not for the Black African Ugandan population a blindfolded man would have mistaken Kampala to be a part of a Indian city with the "Bajaj Boxer (Boda Boda)" adding a touch of Indian flavour to Uganda.
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| Swaminarayan Mandir in Kampala |
Flashback of memories of the 1960's of Mombasa in Kenya.Crime rate is high in Kampala and while shooting with my camera the taxi driver advised me to keep my hand inside the car to avoid someone snatching the camera..This could happen even in my native Mumbai at a road traffic signal stop..Finally at 1130 hrs the taxi driver dropped me directly at “Trinity Bus stand” ,an end to a long arduous road travel safari from Entebbe.Deposited my luggage at “Trinity Bus Stand Luggage room” and boarded a “Boda Boda” to Kasubi Tombs with the hire charges being Sh 3000.The Kasubi Tombs are situated on Kasubi hill and is the site of the burial of four Kabakas(Kings of Buganda) and other members of the Buganda family..Entrance to the tombs was Sh 10000 and I was the lone visitor besides a family from Karachi.
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| Kasubi Tombs in Kampala |
The guide gave us a brief explanation and as the main Kings tombs were closed we couldn’t visit the same.The Kasubi tomb's became a UNESCO World heritage site in December 2001.It has been described as one of the most remarkable buildings using purely Vegetal materials for construction in the entire region of Sub-Saharan Africa.In March 2010 some of the buildings were completely destroyed in a fire and the same is being rebuilt and being funded by the Government of Japan. From the Kasubi tombs took a Boda Boda to the Uganda Museum...Entrance to the museum was 15000 shillings .The Uganda museum was founded in 1908 and is the oldest museum in East Africa..
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| With Ms Jovia.Busingye of "Ankole Tribal Hut" |
The museum was initially started in a Sikh temple on Old Kampala hill and later moved to Makerere University college in 1941. In 1954 it shifted to its present permanant location on Kitante hill from Makerere College .In the museum a large section was about the Polish migration to East Africa during the 1940’s.Playable indigenious Ugandan music instruments were on display as also hunting equipment and archaelogical exhibits. There was a temporary exhibition in a section of the museum on milk production titled "Drink deeply milk exhibition" that was being showcased between 22nd September 2017 to March 2018. Various posters and video shows were on display about milk production in Uganda in comparison with milk production in Switzerland.The exhibition displayed the history of milk,milking practices,farming practices and global issues relating to milk production.Saw a video in which they showed the traditional tribal practice of extracting a little blood from the cattle and churning the same with fresh milk for a health drink.Had a cup of milk costing Sh1000 in the Ankole tribal hut exhibit set up in the museum with a demonstration by Ms Jovia.Busingye on the preservation of milk and the method of converting milk into butter.
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| Original "Ford Model T" in Uganda Museum |
From the museum boarded a shared taxi to the city centre costing Sh 1000.Is Kampala going to overtake my home city of Mumbai in population statistics ? The main city centre was absolutely crowded and the prediction is that African city's will be having the largest population a few decades down the road.Walked uphill from the market square in search of a restaurant.finally discovering "Impression Restaurant" serving Ugandan cuisine.Lunch at 1500 hrs was "Offal/Rice Samosa" costing Sh 8000 which was more vegetarian than non vegetarian dish.Raw banana's are skinned and served in the main menu of a typical Ugandan Non vegetarian dish.
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| Downtown Kampala Boulevard.. |
Travel educates and as Dad had told me decades ago seems the average African has more of a vegetarian meal than a non vegetarian meal.Ugandan cuisine is sweet akin to Western Cuisine unlike Ethiopian cuisine which is pungent as the average Ethiopians love eating green chilli peppers along with their meals.After my late lunch stepped out of the restaurant into the busy road and entered "Green Africa restaurant and bar" for a pint of beer.The numerous betting shops that i came across during my short walk from the taxi stand to the restaurant reminded me of bookie shops in London.
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| "Independence Monument" in Kampala. |
Sports betting is legalized in Uganda and after my pint of beer entered a "Bookie shop" and was surprised to see bets being accepted through the Internet besides normal across the table placement bets.Was i daydreaming ? Could this actually be Uganda and not some part of London ? Bets were also being accepted on the Indian football league but didnt come across any cricket betting odds.Strolled around crowded downtown Kampala Boulevard with its broad streets and palatial office buildings enquiring of direction to "Independence Monument" .Finally found the monument located near the traffic circle bordering the landmark "Standard Chartered building " and "Grand Imperial Hotel". Visited the "Golden Tripod Casino" located in the same building of the "Grand Imperial Hotel". The casino was doing good business unlike the Casino in Entebbe which had negligible footfalls during my visit.From the Casino entered the 3 star "Grand Imperial Hotel" and inquired the rentals which were U.S $ 100/night, a far figure from the budget hostels that i always live in during my travels.
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| Betting shops and Street hawkers in crowded Kampala |
On exiting the hotel suddenly heard police sirens with a armed escort of military vehicles making the turn around the traffic square of National monument.On Enquiry was told that the President's wife Janet Myseveni had returned from Entebbe "State House" to Kampala with her normal personal escort.After visiting a few more "Betting Shops" had a pint of Guiness at "Green Africa restaurant and bar" which was getting ready for the week-end Friday night partying.I would have mistaken this part of Kampala to be Soho of London if not for the fact that i was the only Asian in a sea of Black African Ugandans..Dinner was "Chicken/Basmati rice" at "Impression restaurant" after which i boarded a "Boda Boda" back to Trinity bus terminus.The bus terminus was packed to capacity and my decision to book my ticket in advance was a wise decision otherwise i could have faced severe transport difficulties reaching Kigali.The approximate travel distance between Kampala and Kigali is 514 Kms with a average journey time of 9 hrs. Met two young men who were Rwandan Tutsi's working in Uganda .The Tutsi's are one of the tallest tribes in Africa .The tall six feet four inch Mr Katale Abdul and his accomplice Mr Gihane. Ntwarane Confident struck a chord with me and thankfully the bus was punctual in departure at 2100hrs.
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| At the "Hotel Des Mille Collines" in Kigali.Film "Hotel Rwanda" based on this hotel, |
Saturday(6/1/2018) Kigali :- A good journey on seat N0 4 just behind the driver with Rwandan Mr Kayitale.Abdul briefing me on Rwandan culture and the excellent loud music played throughout the night inside the bus.
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| Trinity Bus :- Kampala to Kigali night journey |
The music prevents the driver from dosing.He also advised me not to ask anyone in Rwanda if they were Tutsi or Hutu as they all liked to be referred to as Rwandan's rather than by ethnic tribal identities.The "1994 Rwandan Genocide" had totally transformed the country. A excellent journey.Had a short stop mid-way for a toilet visit and finally reached the Uganda-Rwanda border town of Katuna also spelled Gatuna in the Kinyarwada language of Rwanda .Had to alight the bus with me being the lone foreigner let alone Asian foreigner in the crowd of Black African's.Had to first get my passport stamped at the Ugandan border post and from there it was a short walk to the Rwandan border check post.
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| Decorations in Hotel Des Mille Collines |
Thanks to Mr Kayitale Abdul that i was guided to the right queue for visa and immigration check as only a few of the bus commuters spoke the English language with French being the second language of Rwanda.It was only since 1st January 2018 that Rwanda had started granting Visa's on arrival to visitors of all nationalities and i was definitely one of the "Bonny Indian Tourists(Bonny is Hindi slang for First)" to get a land border visa on arrival in Rwanda. Most or almost all foreign tourists enter Rwanda by air as i guaged from the fact that i was the only tourist among the entire crowd of Visa applicants at the Rwandan Katuna border.After the normal questioning by the "Immigration Officer" i was told to pay the Visa fee of U.S $ 30 at another counter a short distance away which again confused me but was finally successful after much inquiry.There were a few other International buses in queue at the "Uganda-Rwanda Border Checkpost" and i was terrified of the bus leaving without me as i walked helter-skelter getting my visa .
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| Excellent and clean Kigali roads and city |
Finally got my passport stamped and next after that had to get my baggage checked by the Customs authorities as did all the other passengers.After about a hour since arrival at the border check post our bus finally took off to Kigale reaching Nyabugogo Bus terminus in Kigali at 0600 hrs.Rwandan time is one hour behind Uganda and Ehtiopia time and hence the clocks retarded by an hour.First and foremost changed some U.S dollars to local Rwandan Francs @ US $ 1 = 859 RWF. My actual search troubles began at the Nyabugogo bus terminus as finding the address to Mijo hostel situated in Kimihurura district of Kigali was a puzzle to the local shared taxi drivers.Kigali became the capital of Rwanda in 1962 and lies in the centre of the Country .It is a city built on small hills ,ridges and valleys with my destination being Kimihurura locality.. Finally with great difficulty boarded a local bus heading to Remera area of Kigali Town and it was the best bus i had boarded to date on my African safari travel across Ethiopia, Uganda and now Kigali.
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| Inside a "SPORTS BETTING SHOP" in Kigali |
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| Daily breakfast at plush palatial"Mijo Guesthouse". |
We finally reached "Papyrus" hotel which is a landmark in that area and luckily met a young white lady tourist near "Papyrus" hotel who guided me to "Mijo Hostel" on KG 672 Street. The palatial Bungalow hostel issituated a little downhill from "Papyrus" hotel on the ridge of the hill in Kimihurura area of Kigali.Kimihurura is the geographical centre of Kigali city.After a refreshing cold water bath got dressed and took a ride on a "Motorcycle Taxi" costing 500 Francs to "Hotel Des Mille Collines" situated in the Kiyovu area of Kigali. I would have loved hiring a motorcycle and cruising the roads of Kigali except for the fact that Rwanda has "Left Hand Drive" to which i am not accustomed to cycling let alone driving. The Hollywood film "Hotel Rwanda" was based on the genocide in which this particular hotel played a vital role in saving refugees.Entered the hotel which was beautifully decorated for the " Christmas/New Year" festive season.
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| " Birdwatching" view from palatial "Mijo Guesthouse" |
The lowest room rate was U.S $130 and definitely a 5 star graded hotel as it had a beautiful small swimming pool.From the hotel walked across a uphill road in search of a eatery and came across a small store run by a Indian family .Purchased a chocolate and the lady a Memon Muslim told me that there were about 1500 Indian families in Kigali which has the lowest crime rate among the major African city's.A chocolate wouldn't satisfy my vorascious appetite and strolling further down the road came across "Arona " restaurant with a grocery mini supermarket named "Sharma Supermarket" situated in the opposite building.I was reliving a time capsule of my childhood of the 1960's in Mombasa where Indians and Indian stores were a common sight.
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| "Salesians De Don Bosco" Church and school |
On entereing "Arona" restaurant the only man in the restaurant was of Asian origin having lunch .I initially didn't speak to him making my way to a table and ordering lunch along with a beer..Then i casually asked him if he was Indian to which he replied in the affirmative and hence began a talk with Electrical Engineer Mr Kiran.Kamath from Mumbai.He was a specialist employed in laying out of power lines being last employed in Nigeria.After our lunch bid adieu to Mr Kiran.Kamath and his local acquaintaince and headed into "Sharma Supermarket".
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| Landmark "PAPYRUS " of Kimihurura locality |
The man on the counter was definitely very Indian and after purchasing a few grocery products for dinner picked up a conversation with young Mr Jitesh.Sharma from Gujarat mistaking him to be a North Indian as Sharma is usually a North Indian surname in India.Travel educates.I marvelled at this young man's skill in mastering the local language besides being the ultimate businessman as are a majority of Gujarati's all over the World .No wonder Ugandan businessman/Politician Mr C.L.Kodet was pressurizing me to be a investor in Uganda definitely initially mistaking me for the talented Gujarati businessmen of East Africa.Starting "BETTING SHOPS" in Uganda which is my pioneering crusade in India made no economic sense in Uganda as it was a saturated business in the Country.Beside's, i am a "Punter" and not a "Bookie" in the World of Speculative trading.If at all i did business in Africa it would be as a "SPORTS PUNTER" in the legalized betting shops.
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| Plush millionaire bungalows in Kimihurura locality. |
But then who would guarantee my safety if i won big time by sending the bookie's to the cleaner's as i have done in my pioneering notional money game on "Facebook" titled "Mittoo alias Mittoo the poppat".? From "Sharma Supermarket" took the long ride back to "Mijo Hostel" just in time to avoid a heavy downpour of afternoon rains. It was the monsoon season in Kigali and it was pouring cats and dogs along with thunder.Unique monsoon weather i have witnessed during the month of January in a country outside India."Mijo Hostel" has a scenic locale in Kigali situated on top of one of the numerous small hills that form Kigali city.
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| "Bird's Eye View" of Kigali from Mijo Hostel |
The View of the city and adjoining hills from palatial "Mijo Hostel" is indescribable at night.Slept early in my 6 bed dormitory which was the first time i was living in a shared accomodation during this "AFRICAN TRAVEL SAFARI" odyssey.During my World tours i have lived in a few palatial Bungalow resorts and "Mijo Hostel" is one of them which caters mostly to tourists from wealthy First World Country's.The palatial Bungalows of Industrialists or filmstars in India is no more a novelty surprise to me which is a great experience that only travel can fulfill.The most famous landmark in the vicinity of "Mijo Hostel" is "Papyrus Nightclub" where the music can be heard until 0500 hrs in the morning of a weekend Saturday/Sunday..Will definitely have to visit this Nightclub that has music blasting in the entire vicinity of palatial millionaire Bungalow resorts and private houses.Kigali really rocks in 5 Star style.
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| Akagera National Park in Rwanda. One of the "BIG 5" of African Wildlife. |
Sunday(7/1/2018) Kigali :- Today its "Christmas Day" celebrations by the Ethiopian Coptic Church in Ethiopia. Addis Ababa would be celebrating Christmas in grand style as i had witnessed the grand "Christmas Festival Carnival" celebrations in Addis Ababa to welcome Christmas day.
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| With world traveler Mr Mark.Kallsen |
Today i would be visiting Akagera National park along with another hostel resident Mr Mark.Kallsen of U.S.A. Hostel manager Mr Santos had arranged a private guided tour for the both of us costing U.S $ 165/person and it would be embarrassing and a shame completing my "African Travel Safari-2018" without ever visiting a genuine National park on the continent.As a 7 year old i had visited the "Nairobi National Park" in 1967 along with my parents and this would be my second visit to a National park in the continent of Africa.During my South Africa tour in 2016 i had indulged in expensive"Extreme adventure sports" and hence did not visit a National park . Our driver cum guide Mr Bucyana.Jean.Paul arrived punctually before 0600 hrs to pick us up from the hostel and at 0600 hrs we were zooming towards Akagera National park.Akagera National park is one of Africa's oldest having been founded in 1934 but gradually disfragmanting over the decades to its present size of 1,122 Sq Km.
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| Entrance to "Akagera National Park" in Rwanda. |
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| First sighting was one of "BIG 5" of African Wildlife |
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| Giraffe browsing among the tree top leaves. |
Entrance fee to the park was US $ 40 and after a brief introduction of the park by a local park guide we were given permission to enter the National park.Having visited numerous National parks in India was familiar to the normal procedure of a National park safari and the method of the tour was similar to Indian safari tour drives.We would not be staying overnight and hence our entire safari drive would be in a single day.The first animals we spotted were a group of baboons and a lone wild buffalo.Thankfully the weather was excellent as i feared the rains might ruin our safari since it had rained heavily yesterday afternoon.Along the long drive through the lush green forest of Acacia amd Brachystegia woodlands spotted Impala's,water buck's and numerous different bird species .It was the fag end of the rainy season and hence dense undergrowth in certain sections of the park made wildlife spotting difficult .
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| Our "Akagera Safari Vehicle", |
Came across loads of fresh elephant dung along the jungle road but failed to spot a single elephant as they must have been cocealed in the dense forest greenery. We stopped at a lake and i got my life's first sighting of Hippopotamus in their natural environment and not a caged zoo.There were three to four giant Nile Crocodile's basking on the bank of the lake while the Hippo's swam close to them.Straight out of a National Geographic documentary coming true in real life.Along the water bank was a flock of cormorants, ducks, heron's,darter snake birds and crowned cranes to name only a few of the bird species i could identify.There is a very complex system of interlinked lakes with papyrus swamps that forms almost 1/3 rd of the park area making this park the largest wetlands in Central Africa. Guide cum driver Jean.Paul next drove us from the lake along the guided forest road track and along the route spotted Zebra's and wild boars.Where were the Carnivores ?
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| Topi and herds of Herbivores on Kirara plains |
Large Carnivores like lions, striped jackals, hyena's and leopards were artificially introduced into the park recently and hence their population miniscule which makes sighting them difficult. Experience touring India's wildlife parks made me realize that in order to sight large carnivore's and herbivores a minimum of two days safari tours in the park at different hours of the day is the requirement.After hours of driving sighted our first giraffe and later towards the end of the tour reached Kirara plains which is the savannah grasslands of Akagera National park.This was a scene straight out of a National Geographic documentary re-enacted at Kirara plains in Akagera National Park.
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| Zebra and Kudu. |
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| A Baboon crossing our path. |
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| Majestic Impala stags in a "Face-Off" stag fight. |
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| "PRESIDENTIAL PALACE MUSEUM" in Kigali. Plane flying over the Palace museum |
Monday(8/1/2018) Kigali :- Had a decent nights four hours sleep and after a cold water bathe at 0530 hrs blogged away on my laptop in the kitchen of the palatial hostel.
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| Presidential Palace Museum in Kigali |
. The Kitchen was the only location where the WiFi was effective for my laptop and smartphone.The sound of exotic birds chirping away early at dawn was a nature therapy without a doctors prescription.A tourist could just spend a week in "Mijo Hostel" and Kimihurura locality of Kigali without touring the city and go back to his or her country absolutely rejuvenated akin to attending a health clinic. Sighted numerous exotic birds with my binoculars but just couldn't identify them.The hostel was full to capacity with a couple arriving along with their young kids making this palatial bungalow seem like a big multiracial family house with the majority being Caucausian guests.At the breakfast table met two young Australian men leaving for Uganda on a 5 day Gorilla cum Chimpanzee trek costing each of them a total of US $ 2000 only.
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| My Museum guide Ms Mbabazi.Perinah |
After breakfast made inquiries with hostel manager Mr Santos Van Weslay whose Rwandan name was Murunyi for directions to the "Presidential Museum Palace" situated in Kanombe..Boarded a "Motorcycle taxi" costing RwF1200 for the 12 Kms distance to the Presidential Palace from "Mijo Hostel".It was a long pleasant ride early in the morning and at approximately 08 30 hrs reached the Presidential Palace museum gates.I seemed to be the only visitor and on entering the ticket counter office was greeted by a few beautiful Rwandan receptionists. After purchasing the museum ticket costing RwF 6000 was taken on a personal guided tour of the former Presidential Palace by a young beautiful lady Ms Mbabazi.Perinah who could be the envy of beauty contestant competitors in her pretty Rwandan traditional attire.Strangely she mistook me to be some sort of actor which gave logic to my fitness regime..The Assasination of President Juvenal.Habyarimana and Burundian President Cyprian.Ntaryamira on the evening of 6th April 1994 was the catalyst to the "RWANDAN GENOCIDE " of 1994.
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| Palatial Presidential Museum estate. |
This was the Presidential Palace in Which President Juvenal. Habyarimana, rhe second and longest serving President of Rwanda from 1973 until his assasination in 1994 lived along with his family with the Palce later later occupied by his successor President Pasteur.Bizimungu(1994-2000). After President Pasteur Bizimungu this palace was converted into a museum.I was first shown the residential bungalow of the chief of the armed forces which was palatial in size but ordinary in interior decoration.Next strolled into the palatial palace estate where i was shown a small empty swimming pool with a elevated cusped enclosure that was the residence of President Habyarimana's pet snake..
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| Presidential Palace grounds on which plane crashed. |
This "Pet snake Pool"presented by President Mobutu Sese Seko situated next to a large over 100 year old gigantic tree. housed a 300 pound python that was used to ward of evil spirits as well as psychologically frighten the President's opponents during a turbulent time in Rwandan history.This giant python mysteriously escaped from the pool after the President's plane crash in the backyard destroyed its caged enclosure setting it free.The giant python was never recaptured or seen again.. Do you believe in the occult ? I was next taken into the Presidential Palace backyard ground which is the original site of the plane crash. The remains of the "Falcon 50 " 60 seater presidential plane that was shot down killing all 12 on board the plane lies scattered on the Presidential ground.
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| "Python Enclosure" next to a over century old tree |
Its too bizarre beyond the supernatural that the plane should have been shot down in the air and crash right on the backyard lawns of this once palatial palace.Has Horror best-seller writer Stephen.King ever thought of such a scene for any of his supernatural fiction thrillers ? Truth is stranger than fiction..Photography of the plane debris is banned as the "PLANE CRASH CASE" is still under judicial investigation with the actual perpetrators of the crime still to be authentically identified in a "Court of law".There were numerous beautiful Crested cranes roaming in this backyard estate .
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| Presidential Palace Tennis Court. |
On inquiry was told that these cranes were actually injured birds that were kept in a caged veterinary complex situated at one end of this large vacant ground to be later released into the wild on recovery of their flying prowess.From the plane debris palace ground we next made our way towards the palatial small open air swimming pool with a tennis court at the other end of the Palace complex..There was also a open air barbeque lawn and the luxury of the palace complex was definitely fit for a king or Queen.From the Presidential Palace estate we finally made our way into the actual "President House".Footwear has to be removed before entering the Palace premises.
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| The Undertakers :- Coffins for the wealthy |
This Presidential house was first occupied by President Juvenal.Habyarinama in 1980 and we entered the house from the rear which was the waiting room of Presidential visitors.From the "Waiting Room" we entered the main office of the President painted white in colour as were the table support legs. The president had a obsession with the colour white and it showed in the decor of the President's office.There were a few vintage dial phones on the Presidential desk which otherwise wore the look of a normal executive office boardroom.Next we entered the "Dining and Sitting room" that had a large dining table with more than ten seats to seat President Habyarinama's large family of eight children.From the dining room we walked up a staircase that leads to the first floor and into the bedroom. Guide Mbabazi.Peninah showed me the secret sensors fitted at the foot of each staircase to warn the President of any unfamiliar intruder approaching the bedroom.This secret sensor's were switched on only once the President entered his bedroom.
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| The normal Clean red mud roads in Kigali |
Beside's the Kingsize bed there is a large table in the bedroom with elephant legs that was a gift to Habyarinama from President Mobutu.On the second floor is the "T.V Room" that had a secret cabinet for storing guns and also a secret escape route to the third floor in case of a enemy intruder attack.The President could snatch a gun from the enclosed wooden cabinet and rush up the secret steps..We walked up the third floor which contains two large deer head antlers which was a gift from the Netherlands.After passing the giant deer antler heads we entered the Presidential chapel which was blessed by Pope John Paul II during his visit to Rwanda.In close proximity to the Catholic prayer chapel is the office of the President's family "WITCH DOCTOR".Catholocism by religion with parallel belief's in "Withcraft".
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| "Forte Bet Shop" :- My First bet on the African Continent. |
Not strange as most religions do have some of it's follower's also believing in occult practices .The Third floor also houses the First Lady's dressing saloon and the children's private tutorial room..This was the end of my Presidential palace tour museum and after a photo-shoot with the beautiful guide Ms Mbabazi.Peninah made my way out of the palatial museum estate into "KK 106 St" in Kanombe town.The streets of Kigali are named serially andabsolutely clean and flat without any potholes.Entered a Funerary parlour manufacturing coffins as death is inevitable either for a President or a commoner.Saw some beautiful expensively designed Christian coffins and as is the custom around the Globe the wealthy of Rwandan society do receive a grand farewell.
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| Christmas decorations at Remera Square |
Walked along the narrow main road having numerous shops including legalized betting shops.India's "Airtel" sim card service provider seems to be advertised all over Kigali.Had a snack of local "Doughnut" .that is identical to the "Mahamri " of Mombasa of the 1960's. Eatables rarely change over generations once established. The cleanliness of the butcher shop's amazed me as also other normal shops.Reminded me a bit of South Africa that is on par with "First world " country's in infrastructure and cleanliness.Boarded a local bus to Remera with the bus fare being RwF 200 and got a experience of peak hour commuting by the average Rwandan.The bus was packed to capacity but in a orderly disciplined manner.Payment of bus fare was by "Smart Card" with me being a exception as a tourist.
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| A typical common Rwandan restaurant in Kigali. |
On reaching Remera bus station spotted a large building advertising the "Fortebet" betting shop.Entered the shop which akin to its Kampala branch had " Internet Betting".Mr Ruberwa.Pacifique the betting shop employee explained me the method of placing bets and i placed my "Bonny bet (Hindi slang for First)" in the continent of Africa on the La Liga match between Malaga and Espanyol.Better late than too late. Bet RwF1000 on a Malaga win with the dividends being RwF 2610 for a Malaga win.From the betting shop it was a long walk to Remera square which had a decorated Christmas tree in the centre.Lunch was at "Avalunch Fast food and Restaurant" consisting of the normal Rwandan buffet lunch costing RwF 1500.
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| Excellent fruits in Remera market |
I have realized that Ethiopians, Ugandan's and Rwandan's are mostly vegetarian in diet with meat forming a miniscule recipe of a common average meal.The buffet lunch was totally vegetarian along with the local popular "Mutzig beer" except for either a chicken or beef piece of meat.After lunch walked over to the local fruit market and purchased a mango and some passion fruits totalling one kg with the bill amounting to RwF 500.End of my day's exploration of Kigali city and decided to take the "Motorcycle taxi" ride back to "Mijo Hostel" which cost me Rw F 400.Relaxed on the "Internet" that has excellent broadband akin to "Gorilla African guest house" in Entebbe.Later in the evening dinner was a snack of Samosas,two boiled eggs with mango/passion fruit and a pint of beer.Had a normal four hour sleep.
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| KANDT HOUSE MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY :- Close encounter with a "BLACK MAMBA". |
Tuesday(9/1/2018) Kigali :- Woke up officially at 0415 hrs and as usual began browsing and blogging on my laptop in the kitchen of the palatial "Mijo Hosel".
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| Entrance to Kigali Genocide Memorial |
On checking my "Bonny Football Result" was sad to know that Espanyol beat Malaga 1-0 and hence my first "Sports Bet" on the African Continent was a loss.In the speculation game of "SPORTS BETTING" you always win some and lose some with the trick akin to "STOCK MARKET INVESTMENTS" being the hard fact that your profits should outscore your losses.WHEN WILL SPORTS BETTING BE LEGALIZED IN INDIA ? All the World's nationalities seem to be converging at "Mijo Hostel" and during breakfast conversed with Mr Paulo from Brazil, a teacher by profession who spoke fluent English.Young Black South African Mr Sifisho.Mashele , a veteran of Kimihurura's nightclub life who shared the bottom dormitory bunk bed with me was leaving today and we both became "F.B" friends.
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| Kigali Genocide Memorial |
The India V/s South Africa cricket test match was being played in South Africa and young Mr Sifisho told me the fact that India had lost the first test match this morning. A young Japanese lady student just arrived today from Osaka on a tour of East Africa bringing back fond memories of my few voyages to Japanese Ports..As for senior most traveller Mr Mark.Kallsen its the Globe that's his stage at the young age of 66 years only.My inspiration on practical travelling when age is just a chronological number. Absolutely incredible at his age although its easy for American and First World country citizen's to get entry Visa's into most Country's.I never ever felt i was "SOLO" during all my "Solo Travels" meeting numerous friend's, acquaintainces and stranger's as also at times getting out of awkward dangerous situations.
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| Mass Graveyards in the Kigali Genocide Memorial |
Suspence at the next turn of the travel is the fascinating aspect of "Solo Tours" compared to readymade guided package tours.After breakfast took a "Motorcycle Taxi"at a hire fare of RwF 500 to "Kigali Genocide Memorial" located 6.5 Kms away from Mijo hostel in Gisozi .Entrance to the museum is free and on entering the main gate approached the "Visitor's Centre" for guidance.A official gave me instructions and directions on visiting the museum .Visitors can chose to be guided by a "Audio visual guide" on payment of US $ 15 or otherwise just tour the museum on their own.I preferred touring on my own since as a student of history was familiar with the Rwandan Genocide facts.
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| Kigali Town Centre |
This museum commemorates the 1994 genocide against mostly the minority Tutsi community of Rwandan society..The Centre opened in 2004 is managed and run by the "Aegis Trust" and the Kigali city council.On entering the main museum building was surprised on seeing quite a large crowd of visitors unlike the "Presidential Palace museum" where i was the second visitor of that day.All were Caucausian tourists with audio-headphones listening to the explanation of the museum exhibits while i walked along the exhibited photo's reading the subtitle explanation in English.This museum is very similar to the "Yad Vashem" holocaust museum in Jerusalem with video-documentary explanation of the Rwanda genocide and the reasons for the same..
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| Kandt House Museum of Natural History in Kigali |
On the ground floor of the museum there are seperate chambers having different exhibits of the holocaust.There is a chamber of skulls and bones of the human victims while another chamber has the clothes worn by some of the victims..The upper floor has three permenant exhibits and the first room had an exhibit of a few life size photo's of some young children with their names and a brief description of them who were mindlessly massacred during the 1994 Rwandan genocide.Young lives with great ambitions cut short by violence.Next chamber had a history on genocide across the World with myself having personally visited Auschwitz in Poland and the "Killing Fields" in Cambodia.
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| View of Kigali old city and 3 Mountains from Kandt House. |
The last major documented genocide was the Bosnian war which was also exhibited with reasons for the same.Another room has telivised testimony of some of the survivors of the Rwandan genocide.Photography is not allowed inside the genocide museum..After the museum exhibition walked out into the burial garden where the remains of over 250,000 victims of the Rwandan 1994 genocide lie buried.After finishing the tour of Kigali genocide museum walked out of the main gate which ironically resembles Auschwitz entrance gate and boarded a "Motorcycle taxi" to reach Kigali city centre.On arriving at Kigali city centre the motorcycle taxi driver stopped at a building and to my surprise before i could pay him his RwF500 fare his motorcycle was seized by a man and taken away uphill with him following behind.
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| The "Gabon Viper" in Kandt House . |
Bizarre and hilarious.What was his crime for this extreme action as also his guilt ? I waited at the same spot for some time thinking he would return as i felt guilty for not paying him his taxi fare. In the meantime a hawker approached me to buy a "Kigali tourist map" something which is provided free in tourist bureau's in most country's.I always use the local tourist map on all my solo tours and in Africa this was the first instance where i didn't have the assistance of common tourist guide maps.Glancing through his map i realized i was in close proximity to the "Kandt house museum of Natural history" and decided to visit the same.Thanked the hawker and tipped him for the accidental useful information he unwittingly provided.This is the adventure and suspence of "Solo Travel" where you are your own tour boss as well as logistics guide.Kigali City centre is the office locality of Kigali city and was crowded with people unlike the plush residential locality of Mijo hostel in Kimihurura which is a party nighclub locale with millionaire bungalow's.Absolutely exclusive locality..
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| Entrance to "Kandt House Museum of Natural History" |
The City centre office locality is on top of the hill and had to walk down hill towards "Kandt house museum of natural history".Reached the main taxi/bus stand which had a few betting shops in the long office building adjacent to the taxi stand.The betting shops were bustling with activity as this was one of the main city centres.Finally after a lot of inquiries reached the landmark "Nyarugenge Prison " which is Rwanda's oldest prison nicknamed "1930 Nyarugenge Prison". Most of the convicts of this prison were perpetrators of the 1994 genocide against the Tutsi and this prison was to be closed.From the prison it was again a short downhill walk to ""Kandt House museum of Natural history"..
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| Kigali city centre Taxi/Bus terminus. |
Entrance ticket to the museum was RwF 6000 and akin to the "Presidential palace" there were lady guides dressed in Rwandan traditional dress.This museum was the home of German resident Richard .Kandt and a lifesize statue of him is installed near the entrance of the museum ground..My guide Mrs Hope(Esperance) took me on a guided tour of the small museum which is divided into three main parts..The entire museum exhibits are on the ground floor and on entering the first room was shown the pictured exhibits depicting Rwandan culture ,Rwandan Kings and life before the colonisation of the Country..In the second chamber a detailed account of the effect of colonization on Rwandan society especially under the German rule that began in 1884.
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| Crowded Downtown Kigali City |
The effect of religious conversions of the local Rwandans into Protestants or Catholics is also depicted.Also provides details of the life of pioneer explorer of Rwanda , the German Mr Richard.Kandt.The last chamber of the ground floor provides the history of Kigali before and after colonization to its present era.After finishing the building visit Mrs Hope took me outdoors into the palatial estate where a small baby Nile crocodile is kept in a large enclosure..Most amazing is the location of Kandt House which sits at the ridge of the Nyarugenge hill with a bird's eye view of the three mountains facing it which are Mt Kigali,Mt Jali and Mt Shyoronji..Also got the best view of Old Kigali city down below in the valley.We next entered a small room that had snakes in glass enclosures.
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| Downtown Kigali.Commercial offices. |
Definitely not well maintained with the identification labels on some of the snake enclosures missing.Got to view a few of Africa's deadliest snakes from a close distance akin to seeing fish in a small aquarium.The snakes seem well fed as snakes do not require much space unlike mammals or birds.The prize views were of the Mamba, Gabon viper,Python and Spitting Cobra.Never ever have i been so close to two of the World's most poisonous snakes and took a few photographs with the snakes.After the "Snake Photo-shoot" thanked guide Mrs Hope and made my way uphill back towards the taxi/bus terminus.Lunch was at "U & B Restaurant" and was the typical "Rwandan Buffet Lunch",only a lit bit expensive costing RwF 2500.The extra dish was a vegetarian soup otherwise as normal as the average RwF 1500/2000 buffet lunches served in local hotels in Kigali.
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| Landmark in Kigali City Centre |
After lunch took a ride on a "Motorcycle Taxi" back to "Mijo Hostel" stopping at the "Don Bosco" church which was on the route to the hostel.In my home city of Mumbai i either ride my motorcycle or cycle for commuting and strangely during my entire African safari travels i was the piggy back rider rather than the driver of the motorcycle or cycle.Realized the versatility of the cycle and motorcycle in negotiating heavy traffic congestion.The motorcycles used by the "Motorcycle taxi drivers" are the "TVS Victor" brand of India and not the "Bajaj Boxer " brand as preferred by the "Boda Boda" drivers of Uganda.Strange.Both neighbouring Country's prefer Indian made motorcycles but of two different manufacturer's.Relaxed in the palatial hostel bungalow blogging on my laptop A young Korean lady busy cooking in the palatial bungalow kitchen had just arrived at the hostel having completed her "Gorilla Trek" in Uganda.On inquiry with her was surprised to know that the "Single Day Gorilla" trek cost her only approximately U.S $ 650, ansolutely cheap .The treks are arranged in groups of 8 people at a time with the "Gorilla Permit" itself costing U.S $ 600.Seems for the "Gorilla Treks" in Uganda different travel agencies have different rates but U.S $ 1000 could be the basic minimum price of the Gorilla trek in Uganda.Later in the evening walked down the road to a local restaurant "Happy Cheftaine" and dinner was a normal Rwandan rice/meat curry with chips costing RwF2000.Returned back to the hostel and uploaded a few video's on "Youtube" as the hostel's Wifi router had been renewed and was functioning better than the previous gadget.
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| A visit to the Nymata Genocide memorial. |
Wednesday(10/1/2018)Kigali :- The same normal routine as usual with the early morning hours spent on the laptop.The chirping of birds all over the palatial hostel estate was a sign of dawn..
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| Not a Cycle race but " CYCLE TAXIS" of Kigali. |
After my normal habitual breakfast and after consultations with hostel manager Mr Santos took a ride on the now routine "Motorcycle taxi" to Nyanza bus terminus , a distance of 10 Kms from "Mijo hostel".On reaching the bus terminus paid the motorcycle driver RwF1000 and was lucky to immediately get a mini shared taxi to Nymata.For the first time in my life saw "Cycle Taxi's" at Nyanza bus terminus.The passenger would sit on a large modified carrier seat at the back of the cycle akin to pillion riding on a motorized two wheeler .These "CYCLE TAXI'S" are definitely meant for short distance rides as Kigali being a city of hills would make long distance "Cycle Taxi's" a next to impossible means of indigenious private transport. Its a long distance of almost 33 Kms from Nyanza bus/taxi terminus in Kigali to Nymata taxi stand and after a long journey on excellent paved highway roads finally reached Nymata taxi stand.
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| Nymata Genocide Memorial ,Former Church Compound |
I was to visit the "Nymata Genocide Memorial" and after asking directions at the taxi stand headed in the right direction along the main road..It was a long walk in the cool pleasant weather and after much inquiries finally at 0945 hrs reached the entrance gate of "Nymata Genocide Memorial".I was the lone tourist at the memorial and the local lady guide showed and explained to me the various aspects of that terrible day on 14 th April 1994 when approximately 10,000 Tutsi worshipers who had taken shelter inside the church premises were massacred .This memorial is in the same Catholic church that has been preserved in the same manner as on the day this terrible human genocide took place.
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| Old Nymata Church now the Genocide Memorial |
There are bullet holes on the corrugated roof of the church and entrance walls. Grenades were used to blast open the door which was locked shut by the worshippers.Inside the church were the clothes of the massacred victims A section contained the skulls and bones of the victims of the Rwandan massacre of 1994.Rosaries,prayer books of the victims were kept on the altar of this former church now a memorial museum.In the centre of the church is a underground vault where coffins containing the skulls of the victims is kept. A lone coffin of a woman stands out amongst the numerous nameless heaps of skulls enclosed in all the coffins.
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| New Church next to "Genocide Memorial " in Nymata |
This woman was brutally tortured and killed and hence her coffin placed separately as a reminder of crimes against humanity.From the church we went into a open compound just outside the church premises that also housed a underground memorial of corpses in coffins.A total of 50,000 people lie buried in the "Nymata Genocide Memorial" at Nymata.Entrance to the Genocide memorial is free and visitors are obliged to drop some donations into a charitable box kept at the visitor's book signing table.From the Genocide memorial church made my way into the new church built on the same estate, a typical ordinary simple Catholic church.
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| Outside "Nymata Genocide Memorial" |
After visiting the church walked the short distance back to the main road and hired a motorcycle taxi to take me to ."Ntarama Genocide Memorial" church situated a few kilometers away from Nyamata Genocide memorial..At 1045 hrs reached Ntarama genocide memorial with the entire memorial estate looking deserted and devoid of any human activity.Paid the motorcycle driver RwF 5000 and entered the main gate of the large grounds of the memorial.A lady approached me explaining that she was the guide and opened the main door of the church that was locked .Entering the small church presented almost the same tragic sight as in Nyamata church.
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| Ntarama Genocide memorial Church |
Here a lot of young children attending catechisnm classes lost their lives on 15th August 1994 when approximately 5000 people were massacred in this church premises.Nyamata church was the main parish church of the diocese while Ntarama was the subsidiary church .There are a total of six major centres in Rwanda that commemorate the "Rwandan 1994 Genocide" .These six centres are 1) Murambi Memorial centre 2) Kigali genocide memorial 3) Nyamata Genocide memorial 4) Bisesero genocide memorial 5)Nyarubuye memorial centre and finally 6)Ntarama genocide memorial centre...The simililarities between the "Jewish Holocaust" are the "Rwandan Genocide" are undeniable although the Jewish holocaust was on a larger scale with different political ideologies.
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| Ntarama Genocide Memorial complex. |
Rwandan Genocide was a genocide of Black African's against Black Africans while the Jewish holocaust was of Caucausian Europeans against their own Caucausian race.From the Genocide memorial it was difficult getting transport back to the main road and for the first time in my life hired a "Cycle taxi driver" to ride me back to the main road.Akin to a motorcycle pillion rider i was sitting on the enlarged well padded carrier of the cycle while the rider pedalled .On reaching the main road paid the "Cycle Taxi Rider" a fare of RwF100 and boarded the motorcycle taxi to Nyamata taxi stand.Will the "Cycle Taxi" be a future business in Indian villages ? Did i discover a novel, simple and clean mode of transport in distant Rwanda which most people in developing Country's must have overlooked ? Travel educates.
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| Riding the "CYCLE TAXI" back to Main Road . |
On reaching Nymata decided to have lunch at the "Coconut Bar" which had a large enclosed seating arrangement with a giant T.V screen for watching football matches.Lunch was fried chips with a stick of barbequed meat and a pint of beer costing a total of RwF 2200.A match between Arsenal and some other team was being screened on the giant T.V. After lunch was lucky to get a shared taxi on the verge of leaving the taxi stand and at 1330 hrs was at Nyanza bus terminus.A local passenger in the taxi guided me in getting the right bus to Kigali city with the bus ticket costing RwF 250 which was paid by a smart card of a passenger whom i repaid in cash.Local Rwandan's are very obliging and helpful and its impossible to believe that one of the modern World's worst holocaust took place in this beautiful country.
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| "CYCLE TAXI RIDE" along Rwandan Countryside |
The bus was heading to Kigali City centre and my sense of direction told me that i could alight somewhere midway and board a motorcycle taxi to "Mijo Hostel" rather than travelling the long distance to Kigali city centre and back to Mijo hostel.A lady sitting next to me guided me on getting down at the right bus stop and after alighting the bus took the usual motorcycle taxi ride to Mijo hostel.Relaxed on my laptop in the palatial hostel.Later in the evening decided to explore the vicinity of plush and posh Kimihurura locality of "Mijo Hostel". Kimihurura is situated at a elevation of 1467 meters and the view from the large hostel verandah of the valley below and the surrounding hill side locality is amazing at night.
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| End of my first "CYCLE TAXI RIDE" as a passenger |
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| La Palisse Hotel in Nymata |
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| Inside the plush "Smart Card" public buses of Kigali . |
So there seemed to be hectic competition in Kimihurura for attracting the nightclub audience during the week-end..Walked back towards Papyrus and walked downhill to enter "African Bites" , a eatery restaurant.They served the normal "Rwandan buffet dinner" costing RwF3500 which was not a novelty dish to me having tasted the same a few times at other restaurants in Kigali.Finally returned back to plush "Mijo hostel" with two boiled eggs and a pint of Heiniken beer purchased from a local store and relaxed in the spascious verandah overlooking Kigali city .There was a short heavy shower of rain after i arrived back into the hostel and was lucky to get back to my temperorary home dry otherwise would have definitely got drenched.The view of Kigali city centre situated on the mountain facing Kimihurura and the valley below at night is absolutely scenic .Just the flickering lights of buildings and the vehicle traffic lights visible in the dark cool night..Dinner was at the small " Happy Cheftaine" restaurant that i had visited yesterday.Dinner was beef curry/rice with beer..The hostel has no telivision akin to a naturopathy resort and everyone gets busy on their laptops or smartphones as a relaxation after the day's itinerary.The hostel Wifi is better than the wifi i experienced in Europe during my recent tour and way ahead of my home city of Mumbai.
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| A little bit of soccer with young kids at the "Salesians De Don Bosco" school in Kimihurara. |
Thursday(11/1/2018) Departure Kigali :- Woke up after my normal 4 hours sleep and got busy on the laptop.Today i would be flying back home to Mumbai.
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| With "Mijo" Manager Mr Santos Van Weslay(Murunyi) |
My last morning in "Mijo Hostel" to hear the early morning chirping of beautiful birds .Ultimately its the memories that remain.Made a recording of the chirping birds at the break of daylight and sad that i couldn't identify most of the birds in the vicinity.Just sitting in the balcony lounge of "Mijo Hostel" overlooking the valley below a trained "BIRDWATCHER" could have a field day in identifying various different species of birds.After breakfast had a morning walk along the familiar route i took yesterday evening but today i just happened to enter a gate having the Catholic Salesians Don Bosco photograph on the entrance gate.
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| In the palatial garden of "Mijo Guesthouse".Ultra Luxury. |
I knew that the Don Bosco church was in the vicinity but on entering the gate was surprised to see a large playground and school buildings .The premises and the groung was empty of any humans except for two tall young men walking across the playground towards the gate.In Rwanda at 5 feet 10 inches in height i felt dwarfed by most of the local Black Rwandan's i met while touring Kigali city.Spoke to the tall men who told me that this was a boarding school and since it was vacations the school premises were empty of students or teachers.While we were talking a young group of children came towards us kicking a deflated football.Definitely lower income Kigalians and not from the plush neighbourhood of Kimihurura.Played a little ball passing with the tallest of the young kids who had excellent ball control.He could be a future player of Rwandan soccer or at least club soccer which could be his future ticket to wealth and comfortable living..
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| Road opposite to the entrance to "Kigali Airport". |
Thanked the kids and the two young men and walked the distance back to scenic "Mijo Hostel". After finally packing my bag realized the the bag zip was not closing which caused a panic syndrome.A hostel employee gave me a crude cloth rope which i tied round the bag while partially managing to close at least half the bag thus preventing a complete opening and spillage of clothes.Decades of sailing makes us "Marine Engineers" a very versatile breed of engineers and at the penultimate moment i averted a packing disaster by means of crude repairs to my trolley bag zip.Boarded a motorcycle taxi at 1045 hrs and was at the airport entrance gate at 1110 hrs .Motorcycles are not allowed into the airport and hence after paying the driver RwF1000 made my way into the street opposite the airport entrance gate and into " Mama Dorcas Resto and Bar " a local Rwandan restaurant crowded with the early morning breakfast crowd.
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| Last snack of "Africa Travel Safari":- Chappati with Tea |
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| Awaiting Airport entry ."Bourbon experience restaurant" |
Was told by the security that I was too early and hence whiled away my time at the airport “Bourbon Experience restaurant” that had a well decorated Christmas tree and a giant T.V screening African Nations football. The prices of snacks in this restaurant was at 5 star rates since I was familiar with the prices of snacks in Kigali restaurants.At 1300 hrs entered the main departure security gate where i had to undergo a second identical security check.After the security check made my way to the Ethiopian airlines check-in counter and collected both my connecting flights boarding ticket. My first flight on "ET 816" was to Addis Ababa and allotted seat No 23 L.My second flight on "ET 640".was from Addis Ababa to Mumbai and allotted seat No 15A.
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| End of "AFRICAN TRAVEL SAFARI " :- Kigali Airport. |
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| Flight " ET0816" at Bujumbura Airpurt(Burundi). |
From the air the vicinity of the airport seemed absolutely forested.The plane got filled in Bujumbura and a black African occupied the seat on the aisle with the middle seat empty.The flight was excellent with drinks and food. Picked up a conversation with my co-traveller a pastor with a PhD in theology and teaching theology in Congo D.P.R. The plane landed in Addis Ababa on time and was aghast on seeing the long queue and the large crowd at the security check-in for transit passengers. Resembled a common market rather than a airport terminal.I thought Istanbul was bad for transit “Check-in” but seem’s Addis Ababa definitely is one of the most busiest airports in the World .After a long wait in the queue it was the routine check up that is a harassment to the average air traveller.Finally passed through the security and made my way to “Gate No 5” which also had other passengers waiting in the airport lounge for departures from gates 1 to 7 situated on the same ground floor .The entire waiting lobby hall reminded me of a common crowded Mumbai railway station waiting lounge rather than a International airport. From sparsely populated Kigali airport it was a experience to be in Ethiopia’s Bole airport which is definitely one of the most chaotic crowded airports i have visited to date.
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| Finally Flight " ET 0640" from Addis Ababa to Mumbai |
Departure of "ET 0640" from Bole airport was punctual at 2340 hrs with me exchanging my seat with another passenger wanting to be with his colleague.Bizarrely even on this flight a seat was vacant in the middle three row seat arrangement with the other passenger being a Indian origin South African tourist.It was a comfortable "Business Class Style" journey and at 0700 hrs touched down at "Chhatrapati Shivaji airport" in Mumbai.The immigration check at Mumbai was the next boring queue in the early morning hours and finally after the immigration formalities entered the "Duty Free" shops and did my normal purchases.Hired a post paid taxi from the airport costing Rs 490 and at 0830 hrs was at my house in Old Prabhadevi road.A successful "African travel Safari" of travelling through four country's that began in the last week of December 2017 had come to a end in the second week of January 2018.
Read my previous adventure trek :- https://dudhsagarwaterfallstrek.blogspot.in/
